Free float Tikka T3X barrel?

[jmerchant.1]

Hey guys, I just bought a new Tikka T3X synthetic and come to find the barrel isn’t completely free-floated. I see they have designed a support point about 3/4 of the way back. I’ve always been a believer in fully free floating barrels, and I have two other Tikkas that are wood stocked that do not have this. Any idea why Tikka would do this to their synthetic stocks? I would think any contact with the barrel would only hinder accuracy not help it. Would you dremel it out or leave it in? I haven’t shot the rifle yet and although my instincts tell me to dremel it out, I don’t want to ruin anything that works as it should and probably void their warranty.

 

[Fire_9]

Why not just shoot it and find out? If it shoots well, leave it alone...

 

[jmerchant.1]

Why not just shoot it and find out? If it shoots well, leave it alone...

That is the plan, and you’re right it may shoot great. I just wondered what the point of it is. In most cases barrel contact is not a good thing

 

[waldo9190]

The point of contact is so close to the front of the chamber that I'd be willing to bet you'd never know the difference if you free floated it.

 

[jwood1284]

I'm betting this also helps prevent the barrel from contacting the stock further down when shooting from a bipod. I'd leave it there and see how it shoots.

 

[josef]

There stocks are not super rigid so even if you float it the stock will likely come in contact when weighted. They probably would rather control how that happens then float it and have it contact in varying spots when weighted.

 

[762 ULTRAMAGA]

Hey guys, I just bought a new Tikka T3X synthetic and come to find the barrel isn’t completely free-floated. I see they have designed a support point about 3/4 of the way back. I’ve always been a believer in fully free floating barrels, and I have two other Tikkas that are wood stocked that do not have this. Any idea why Tikka would do this to their synthetic stocks? I would think any contact with the barrel would only hinder accuracy not help it. Would you dremel it out or leave it in? I haven’t shot the rifle yet and although my instincts tell me to dremel it out, I don’t want to ruin anything that works as it should and probably void their warranty.

View attachment 427377View attachment 427378

Definitely leave it there
When stocks are properly glass bedded the bedding compound is applied approx 1" past the recoil lug to support the chamber area.

 

[morgaj1]

I would leave it. My T3x in 300WM is just like this and routinely shoots handloads to < 0.5MOA.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[MattB]

You might use the search function to get more opinions on this, as based on reading Tikka threads on Rokslide over the years I thought it was pretty standard practice to dremel that out. I did on my T3 based on that advice, no complaints.

 

[jmerchant.1]

You might use the search function to get more opinions on this, as based on reading Tikka threads on Rokslide over the years I thought it was pretty standard practice to dremel that out. I did on my T3 based on that advice, no complaints.

Did it improve accuracy for you?

 

[MattB]

Did it improve accuracy for you?

I removed the hump and also re-torqued the action screws to different values (20#/20# to 45#/35#) so hard to say which was the contributor, but accuracy noticeably improved over a relatively small sample size with the ammo I was shooting (Hornady 139 gr. 7mm-08 superformance).

 

[MattB]

I would pay special attention to post #22, guy has been around a pile of Tikka T3/T3x's.

Should I free float my Tikka T3 Barrel?

I sanded down the stock on my T3 lite to float the barrel and it made a huge difference. I was surprised Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

www.rokslide.com

 

[PNWGATOR]

Takes less than 30 minutes start to finish to remove the nubs and enlarge the entire barrel channel, adjust the trigger, degrease, lock tight and torque everything to spec.

 

[jmerchant.1]

Found this pretty interesting…

STOCK PINCH POINTS - Setting the record straight, why are they there...? - Tikka Shooters

Posting this so guys have the right information, and not some unsupported theory or guess...

tikkashooters.com

 

[sdupontjr]

I removed the "speed bumps" as well as a little more in that same area. I also sanded the barrel channel some, not much to open it a little more on the sides as well as every other cross member like that. I can slide (3) stacked dollar bills down my barrel all the way to the action. My 308 will shoot factory ammo damn near in the same hole. The bottom left shot was cold bore, the remaining 4, well you see.

 

[jmerchant.1]

Thanks for all the opinions guys, for what it’s worth I emailed my local gunsmith and asked him and this was his response-

“This is my opinion. The stock is molded plastic. They tend to be slightly warped. Those two tabs you point out keep the stock in alignment with the barrel. Without them the barrel will be tight to one side. Not Tikka's best idea but, as long as the gun shoots 1 MOA that's all that matters to them.”

 

[Gila]

Definitely leave it there
When stocks are properly glass bedded the bedding compound is applied approx 1" past the recoil lug to support the chamber area.

There is a reason that it it like that...all T3s are the same way. They are quaranteed to be 1” MOA out of the box. They are also test fired at the factory. If you look at the photo, the forward action screw and the cradle keeps the action from moving around the recoil lug. That is the reason that the amount of torque on the action screw es muy importante.

 

[Nomosendero]

Interesting, my T3X Roughtech came fully floated.

 

[General RE LEE]

There is a reason that it it like that...all T3s are the same way. They are quaranteed to be 1” MOA out of the box. They are also test fired at the factory. If you look at the photo, the forward action screw and the cradle keeps the action from moving around the recoil lug. That is the reason that the amount of torque on the action screw es muy importante.

Manual says bottom metal trigger guards get 62# of torque. Is this correct?

 

[Gila]

Manual says bottom metal trigger guards get 62# of torque. Is this correct?

No…I think it is too much. I roll with forty but some like a bit more. I use MT bottom metal on my Tikkas with their SS action screws. That bottom metal tends to snug up with less torque.