Ford F-150 reliable?

[KyleR1985]

2016 super crew 4x4 with 5.0

Will break 200k in the next week or so.

Transmission rebuild that I can’t rule out being the fault of the guy I bought truck from at 25k miles. He could’ve done some dumb things. Transmission guy said not common tranny to see in the shop.

VCT solenoid cam timing whatever stupid thing thay causes rough idle in these trucks.


I paid about 6k total for both those repairs.


Besides those two things, zero issues, standard maintenance. Assuming the tranny rebuild doesn’t crap out, the rest of the truck seems to be in good enough shape to make it another 100k.


With an aluminum truck, and the cost of new vehicles, it’s going to make for a tough call on buying another versus redoing this one.

 

[brianwesson1]

2015 F150 5.0 179,000. Truck has been great. At 140,00 VCT solenoid went out. $2100 at the Ford dealership.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jmez]

That's not even exepnsive, that is flat stealing! $150 part and less than an hour to put it on.

 

[Machingeaneer]

Quick tip from experience, if the VCT solenoid sticks and you're stuck somewhere you can unplug the solenoid, use a cut open cord/cable to run 12v direct from the battery to the solenoid to get it unstuck and get you home. Here's the video that bailed us out.

 

[Dirtbag]

2012 5.0 v8 194k miles on it. Just routine maintenance stuff, I had to replace the water pump at around 170k. I’ve beat the tar out of this pickup and it keeps going. It’s about time for a new one though.

 

[Szwampdonkey]

That's not even exepnsive, that is flat stealing! $150 part and less than an hour to put it on.

I never said it wasn’t theft. They bill you 3 hrs at $200/hr minimum i think. And of course a Ford Genuine part at a dealer is marked up at least 300%. I think an oil change costs $150 at a dealer.

Just the way it is i guess. I do most of my own work if i am certain i know what it is. This bearing didn’t make a sound it was only the errors it created downstream that clued them in.

 

[eamyrick]

I have a 21 stx 4x4 10 speed with 41k. No issues so far. Last truck was a 2014 Ecoboost with 160k. Kept a maintenance log and did plugs twice, cam phasers once even though I now think it was a bad battery, 4 wheel drive selector.

I have driven a variety of trucks for work, ford, dodge, gmc, Nissan and they all have something to fix.

 

[TSAMP]

2014 f150 with 5.0 bought new. Has 195k today. Normal maintenance and a water pump replacement at 60k. Starter around 150k. Rusted cab corners but still solid and dependable. I have cracked 2 factory rims in sub zero temps.

 

[TheHammer]

I did find some aftermarket transmission pans that at least have a drain plug. That would dramatically simplify a few fluid changes then just do the filter at the pan install and then again at ~150k.

My new trans build had a b&m on it. Seems like a nice unit. I put a mishimoto air cooler for a raptor on it and deleted the leak prone heat exchanger and got rid of the second thermostat/temp-stat. When towing 6500lbs recently it never went over 130*. Heat kills the 10rs doesn’t matter if it’s in a gm or ford.

 

[jonesn3]

2020 with 3.5. Almost 90K on it and its been flawless.

I put a 2 inch leveling kit and bigger 10 plys on it. It doesnt get great mileage but still pulls boat trailer or SxS or a 7 foot enclosed trailer like a dream. I didn't buy it for great gas mileage, it's for pulling and running gravel roads and hauling me and the dog all over the country to kill things and then haul them home.

The tow package has the bigger gearing and a 36 gallon tank. I'd recommend.

I have this same truck but 2018. It’s an XLT FX4 with the BLIS, tow, and larger fuel tank. Love the truck, but certainly has had some issues that have so far been fixed.

Got it used in 2022 from the Dealership with about 60k miles. Almost straight away had issues with the front hubs IWE losing vaccum and grinding. That first year the dealership also replaced the primary fuel pump due to low rail pressure on startup. The truck has been in for VCT phases twice, but under warranty, and the second time last summer they finally replaced with updated parts. Problem solved on that front. They also did me a favor covering a timing system rebuild due to worn sprockets, chain stretch, and tensioner failing. Oh, and also a valve cover crack and leak on the driver side this last summer after the phases were fixed. The truck also has the overhead moon roof which failed on a family camping trip over the summer. Again, fixed under warranty. All “common” and well documented issues with that generation truck. So, barring all those issues that have been fixed under warranty, it’s been a good trick. I’m at 105k miles and noticing shifting issues with 4th gear and slippage and other weird behavior at higher gears at times. Hoping I can manage to get that transmission fixed under warranty at some point soon.

Tl;DR like the truck, don’t love the numerous trips to the dealership for repairs, recommend the extended warranty if buying used particularly for the 18-20 year range

 

[Punts01]

The Ford F-150 from there year 2018 and above fixed the transmission issues ,So I can say it is very reliable

 

[HNTR918]

Was looking at F-150 vs Tundra as my next truck for nearly 2 years.
Went Toyota due to the long term reliability of the brand.
I do miss a few of the bells and whistles the Fords have, but those tend to break 5-8 years in anyways.

 

[tony]

Man you all got me thinking
I ran out and bought a 2023 Lightning

 

[Howdoyoulikemenow]

Quick tip from experience, if the VCT solenoid sticks and you're stuck somewhere you can unplug the solenoid, use a cut open cord/cable to run 12v direct from the battery to the solenoid to get it unstuck and get you home. Here's the video that bailed us out.

I’ve watched this video several times. It’s not clear to me if that is a single or double jump wire from the VCT to his battery?

For us guys who have older, high mileage F150 5.0’s, would it be a good general idea to just replace the VCT while your truck is sitting the driveway? Mine just rolled to 183,000.

 

[Machingeaneer]

I’ve watched this video several times. It’s not clear to me if that is a single or double jump wire from the VCT to his battery?

For us guys who have older, high mileage F150 5.0’s, would it be a good general idea to just replace the VCT while your truck is sitting the driveway? Mine just rolled to 183,000.

It's two wires, there are two spade connectors down in the VCT so just get positive to one of them and negative to the other. Be careful not to touch the wires hooked to the battery together, that will be sparky.

 

[DangerRanger]

My 11 5.0 has 246k and is my daily.

Had a radiator hose connection leak that took it out of service until the new joint arrived around 120k, needed a canister purge valve (5 min, 40$) around 215k

I change the oil sometimes, do brakes as needed. Never done a thing else.

Been across the country, has been hit by 3 cars and won each fight, off some sick jumps, and through 1 tornado.

Good truck