Food plot tractors

[LostArra]

Never call your purchase a "Food Plot Tractor" around the wife.
It's a "Landscape Tractor".

If possible, get one with a front end loader. You'll look for new projects just to use it. It makes everything easier.

 

[Billy Goat]

When purchasing "food plot" seed, make sure you read the germination tag. Between mixes full of inert mater and annual rye, or seed that was purchased in bulk for cheap because of poor germination rates, most of the time you don't get much from the food plot branded stuff.

Here's some information on them:

Pure Live Seed: Calculations and Considerations for Wildlife Food Plots | Purdue Extension Forestry & Natural Resources

Have you heard the old adage “proper planning prevents poor performance?” This adage applies perfectly to establishing food plots for wildlife; you just have to adjust the words, “Proper planting prevents poor food plot performance”. When we talk about planting we include planting method...

www.purdue.edu

I just make my own mixes of mostly brassicas.

 

[Mrcrosno]

I did the same thing this past January, I searched and priced out both new and used tractors for over a month. I finally found this 2017 Kubota MX5200 with 650 hours. It was the best deal I could find anywhere and they delivered it to me, about 3 hours away so that helped. I couldn’t justify the cost of a new tractor for food plots and other general deer farm task. I would really like a cab and will most likely upgrade to one in the future, especially after planting fall food plots yesterday, and being covered in dust and other allergens and not being able to breath today from congestion.

I have bought a Firminator to plant, 6’ brush hog and a roller crimper for it and use it all the time on the property.

Make sure to get one that’s big enough, I was looking at 30-40 HP at first and am really glad I have 50 at this point. Get weighted tires if you have lots of topography. Mine didn’t and after having some situations I got the locally dealer to fill mine and it helps a lot in keeping stable.

I feel like the used tractors will hold their value really well if you take care of them and I should be able to get a lot of use out of mine and then trade up for one with a cab.

I bought this ROPS mounted rack to store lunch, drinks and gear and it has been awesome. I highly recommend something like it if you’re using it for a deer hunting property, really nice to have all your stuff that you will need mounted to the tractor.

 

[kirk.ringey]

That's a nice Kubota. Deals are out there, but there aren't many. I know this thread is a little old but doesn't look like prices are going down yet. Winter is a good time to find a deal, however.

I sold my 3520 deere this summer for more than I paid for it 2 years ago. Sold the day I put it for sale. I now use an old 8n and a 4 wheeler for my plots. I won't buy another newer compact until the supply and demand equals out a bit.

 

[RockinRam96]

I bought this ROPS mounted rack to store lunch, drinks and gear and it has been awesome. I highly recommend something like it if you’re using it for a deer hunting property, really nice to have all your stuff that you will need mounted to the tractor.
View attachment 323782View attachment 323781

Nice setup! Who makes the ROPS mounted rack?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Mrcrosno]

Nice setup! Who makes the ROPS mounted rack?

Tractor ROPS-Mount Attachments - Buy From Artillian

ROPS Mount & ROPS Bar-Mount Attachments. Mix-&-match any combination of attachments for use with the ROPS-Mount Tool Bar.

www.artillian.com

 

[Southern Heritage]

I started with a 1953 gas powered Deere which I think was a 27 hp to a johndeere 4630 that was a 150 hp and everything in between.
I think my favorite is my 5085M. It’s big enough to run my drop disc and dirt pan but still small enough to do my small plots with a 7’ tiller.
I’m planting around 35 acres a year now. I used to do about 220 acres a year.
If your doing let’s say all small plots or less then 20 acres a 30-50 hp 4wd.
I also own 4105 and have had 3032 when I was doing plots for money. Eaither one of those would suit you well. I personally don’t like hydro static but you get my dad or brother who don’t run them offten prefer the hydro static for ease of use.

If your looking for used the old fords and massy Ferguson are about bullet proof

 

[bigeyedfish]

We have a gas engine John Deere 1020 (~35 hp) that was built in the early 70's. It requires more maintenance and attention than a newer tractor would need, but it does the job. Only 2WD, but that is okay 99% of the time even on our very hilly farm. With the loader attached, it gets squirrely on the hills and really needs the rear tires filled. With the loader off it is pretty stable.

We also have a Ford 8n, but it just didn't have enough guts to get the job done. I'd just about give it away if somebody showed up with a trailer.

 

[SpookySpectre308]

I come from a family who owns no less than a dozen Kubotas. Everything from the baby bx to the 'agricultural' M6. In my opinion they are as close to bullet proof as you'll find. Hydrostatic is awesome for most people and Kubota has their $h!t rolled into a tight little ball when it comes to the smooth operation of a loader and the transmission when being used in combination. I don't think you'll find better. If you have a small plot and want to use a loader, I couldn't advocate any harder for a hydro Kubota. They usually have 0% financing available.

If you are going to spend a lot of time drafting (disc, digger, plow etc) I would heavily lean towards a gear drive setup in whatever brand you choose. Weight and a standard transmission are what you need to do that successfully and efficiently. That 35hp you mentioned in pretty much any tractor is going to be fairly light. As far as Kubota goes, the MX models work well for a lot of people doing what I think you want.

As our plot acreage has grown, the barn has gotten full. A 17 hp standard, 31hp hydro, 43hp hydro were doing great but with clay soil and pulling larger (this is a relative term to the type of soil you have) implements we had to add a 60hp utility tractor to the mix to not spin wheels. Ended up with an older Case IH 585 since the price was right and we got into the weight range we wanted.

 

[hardluck]

I have a Kubota L4330 HST 4x4 with loader that has been a good one.

 

[SpookySpectre308]

I have a Kubota L4330 HST 4x4 with loader that has been a good one.

I love mine. The only thing I wish it had was the shuttle which came out on the 40 series

 

[JARED_LA]

I just purchased my first tractor and prior to, researched for about a year. For the money and features, it is hard to beat a Kioti. I ended up with a 6010hse (58hp) cab, hydrostat and loader. Kubota tredle pedal sucks for hydro and the lift capacity is much lower. Do your research and make sure your local or near local dealer's service network is up to par. Used market is unreal right now. Buy new for a tad more and you get the warranty....

 

[jjohnsonElknewbie]

Been using our Kubota B2410 (24hp 4x4 with HST) with loader for more than 10 years. It has 60" belly mower for the farm, and I have a 7' brush mower, 5' tiller, 4' cultipacker, and 5' harrow for food plots. I broadcast seed with one of those Earthway over the shoulder models. Works like a dream!

The tractor has been bulletproof and has some nice convenience features compared to JD and similar compact models. I can run my belly mower and loader at the same time without messing around with hydraulic hookups. My buddies deer can only run one or the other without swapping lines. Super annoying. His and my other friend's bobcat both have the annoying seat mounted engine disconnect like a dang garden tractor. My Kubota doesn't have any of those stupid "safety" features. Get on and go to work!

 

[Whisky]

I just purchased my first tractor and prior to, researched for about a year. For the money and features, it is hard to beat a Kioti. I ended up with a 6010hse (58hp) cab, hydrostat and loader. Kubota tredle pedal sucks for hydro and the lift capacity is much lower. Do your research and make sure your local or near local dealer's service network is up to par. Used market is unreal right now. Buy new for a tad more and you get the warranty....

I bought my tractor in 2017 and the used market was the same then (at least for my area). I sat on it for a couple years until I had enough bad winters where I needed to purchase for snow. I ended up with a new Deere 4066r, 0% for 5 years. Its probably more valuable to me for snow removal, but not having to do food plots with a 4 wheelers anymore sure is nice as well.

 

[JBiggs]

Depends on how much you want to spend, how many acres you are doing, want to haul it back and forth, cab. Green paint is expensive but resale is also high! I do rowcrop and hay around my house. I had a little 50 hp tractor for food plotting and sold it after the first year and now just use my IH 986 or JD 4430, have also used a 330HP versatile just because it was a field edge food plot. Its a little bigger then what you want but you can get a cabbed one for 10-14k. Been stuck once with them but you can also pull bigger implements. Sky is the limit in what you want and whats gunna work for you!! Overall what is the best application for your needs!!!!! Good luck in your search!

 

[HornPorn]

Thanks for the replies so far. I have been strongly considering a cab with heat and AC. I'm in SE MN and we get a broad spectrum of weather. I'm torn between going cheap (which usually means old and probably needing regular repairs) and spending quite a bit more and getting exactly what I want with plans to keep it for a long time. I currently put in about 4 acres of plots per year. One place I hunt is about 70 miles away so I'm trying to stay with something I can tow with my F-150. I'm thinking nothing heavier than 4,500-5000 lbs. I am planning to buy more land in the future but it's hard to say when that might happen...

What did you end up getting and how is it working out?

 

[wind gypsy]

Tractor choice is dependent on how you’re going to use it. I’m newish to the foodplot world but am bought into the minimal soil disturbance and input side of things. Primary purpose of my tractor is to pull a no till drill, mow with a flail
mower, and use the loader to pick up and move things.

I ended up with a kubota L3560LE which is built heavier with more 3 point lift than most in that class. The LE version is a lot tractor for the $ compared to the standard L models IMO. The HST+ transmission is really slick. A little more PTO HP would be nice for my 6’ flail mower and I’d like bigger tires up front but it worked well last year otherwise. It’s about as big/heavy as I want to tow with an f150.

 

[180splitg3]

What did you end up getting and how is it working out?

I ended up not buying a tractor. Just couldn't justify the cost of a tractor vs the amount of use I was going to get out of it. This year I am trying the Jeff Sturgis no-till brassica method with buckwheat. Just using my UTV for this. Also, I built a cultipacker from a piece of 12" PVC culvert - that is what I will use to crush the buckwheat down. Hopefully it works out...

 

[wind gypsy]

I ended up not buying a tractor. Just couldn't justify the cost of a tractor vs the amount of use I was going to get out of it. This year I am trying the Jeff Sturgis no-till brassica method with buckwheat. Just using my UTV for this. Also, I built a cultipacker from a piece of 12" PVC culvert - that is what I will use to crush the buckwheat down. Hopefully it works out...View attachment 554002

If a guy doesn't need to plant bigger seeds that need to be incorporated in the soil, its hard to find fault in the thrown-and-roll or throw-and-mow methods.

If you're planting mostly brassica, you could mix in some annual clover like fixation balansa and then broadcast a bunch of winter rye into your brassicas in mid sept once they're going strong so the rye doesn't outcompete them. Then you have a backup rye crop if/when the brassicas crushed. The rye/clover will come on strong in the spring, outcompete weeds, provide nutrition for deer, and mine nutrients in your soil. The annual clovers will die off and fix nitrogen for the next fall's crop to use. The rye will provide great thatch like you're planning to use the buckwheat for this year.

 

[ForkieLivesMatter]

Other than running a no till drill and some pull behind planters most food plots can be done with a 4 wheeler with a tank sprayer on it and a fertilizer/peletized lime spreader. Also a seed broadcaster. That said you can go on the low end with a used old tractor for dragging a disk or cultipacker. Those run 2k - 10k, or buy new and spend 20K to over a 100K. Food plotting gets expensive fast depending on what you "upgrade" to