Fixing a Flinch

[EastHumboldt]

Respectfully, I don’t think that is going to work. You don’t start out a new shooter by putting them behind a lightweight 300 mag and expect them to succeed. You start with something where you can focus on fundamentals without it eating your lunch.

I thought about that after I posted. It’s so easy to run my mouth on the internet. I’ll retract the part about shooting a heavier caliber.

But the recoil of a .308 doesn’t actually hurt, it’s just alarming. ( Unless you’re a small person or something wrong with your shoulder) So if the OP insists on shooting that caliber, he must learn to accept and enjoy the recoil. Repetition. Lighter projectiles is the only way to actually reduce recoil given that he’s going to keep that .308.

All that being said… I was also an adult onset Hunter and shot a 30-06 as my first rifle from 1987 through 2022. I had a bit of a flinch but it disappeared on live game, and would come back at the range. Five years ago I got a Tikka T3 Superlite in 30-06 which I shoot with 165 gr hand loads. I added a limbsaver and vertical grip. The tikka 30-06 has a better trigger than my old R700 and a better butt pad, maybe slightly better ergonomics. Anyway I shoot it much better than the older gun.

Last year I popped for a T3 in 7mm-08. I shoot it better than the. 30-06 and it’s more fun to shoot. So I’m in total agreement that a lighter recoiling caliber is the easy button to better shooting.

 

[Vern400]

This is a tough situation. Way more people have it than will admit it. Some ideas:
1. You have to decide recoil doesn't hurt. If it does literally hurt, fix that first.
2. Train yourself not to blink when the gun goes off. If you blink, you're flinching. My opinion.
3. Watch the bullet hit. Never look over the scope to see what happened. That's a real bad habit.
4. Everything you feel and experience happened in the past. Sensations travel through chemical reactions that send signals to your brain. It only takes 0.0015 seconds for a bullet to leave the barrel. So, if you blink, move, look over the scope, move your hand towards the bolt, ANYTHING you probably started doing that before the trigger broke. A video of you shooting will probably prove that. Be the ICEMAN. Make yourself remain completely still until you hear or see impact.
5. When I shoot a rifle with a crunchy trigger or a heavy pull, it messes with my head. I can make myself get over it, but I think it reduces my performance.
6. I am somewhat recoil sensitive. I can shoot 6.5/260/270/308/30-06 well. But I stop when it bothers me. My friends: don't you want to shoot my 30/378? Me: Nope
7. Never, one time have I felt or remembered recoil when I shot a duck, rabbit, goose, deer, hog.

There's no substitute for time behind the gun. It's human nature to flinch when exposed to a punch and a 60,000 PSI pressure release. You're going to have to train your brain, and it is a very perishable skill. I have legit shot out 30 caliber barrels. I still have to keep myself honest. Welcome to the journey. It's not a destination.

A suppressor will help you. I run with and without. They're pretty nice.

 

[Thegman]

This is a tough situation. Way more people have it than will admit it. Some ideas:
1. You have to decide recoil doesn't hurt. If it does literally hurt, fix that first.
2. Train yourself not to blink when the gun goes off. If you blink, you're flinching. My opinion.
3. Watch the bullet hit. Never look over the scope to see what happened. That's a real bad habit.
4. Everything you feel and experience happened in the past. Sensations travel through chemical reactions that send signals to your brain. It only takes 0.0015 seconds for a bullet to leave the barrel. So, if you blink, move, look over the scope, move your hand towards the bolt, ANYTHING you probably started doing that before the trigger broke. A video of you shooting will probably prove that. Be the ICEMAN. Make yourself remain completely still until you hear or see impact.
5. When I shoot a rifle with a crunchy trigger or a heavy pull, it messes with my head. I can make myself get over it, but I think it reduces my performance.
6. I am somewhat recoil sensitive. I can shoot 6.5/260/270/308/30-06 well. But I stop when it bothers me. My friends: don't you want to shoot my 30/378? Me: Nope
7. Never, one time have I felt or remembered recoil when I shot a duck, rabbit, goose, deer, hog.

There's no substitute for time behind the gun. It's human nature to flinch when exposed to a punch and a 60,000 PSI pressure release. You're going to have to train your brain, and it is a very perishable skill. I have legit shot out 30 caliber barrels. I still have to keep myself honest. Welcome to the journey. It's not a destination.

A suppressor will help you. I run with and without. They're pretty nice.

Great advice. All great points, but 1, 2, 3 & 4 are especially important to pay attention to. (All are really, IMO)

 

[ElPollo]

I thought about that after I posted. It’s so easy to run my mouth on the internet. I’ll retract the part about shooting a heavier caliber.

But the recoil of a .308 doesn’t actually hurt, it’s just alarming. ( Unless you’re a small person or something wrong with your shoulder) So if the OP insists on shooting that caliber, he must learn to accept and enjoy the recoil. Repetition. Lighter projectiles is the only way to actually reduce recoil given that he’s going to keep that .308.

All that being said… I was also an adult onset Hunter and shot a 30-06 as my first rifle from 1987 through 2022. I had a bit of a flinch but it disappeared on live game, and would come back at the range. Five years ago I got a Tikka T3 Superlite in 30-06 which I shoot with 165 gr hand loads. I added a limbsaver and vertical grip. The tikka 30-06 has a better trigger than my old R700 and a better butt pad, maybe slightly better ergonomics. Anyway I shoot it much better than the older gun.

Last year I popped for a T3 in 7mm-08. I shoot it better than the. 30-06 and it’s more fun to shoot. So I’m in total agreement that a lighter recoiling caliber is the easy button to better shooting.

I think it’s important to recognize that recoil affects everyone negatively to some degree, but everyone is different. Making assumptions about how others will respond to different levels of recoil is always iffy. In the case of the OP, their situation was exacerbated by lack of hearing protection. That’s a big factor, and not uncommon thanks to the media and deaf old guys who think it’s fine to… Huh? What was that? Anyone hear a high pitched whining?… Sorry, what were we talking about?

Anyway, I try not to pull the “Just be tougher” or the “It’s not that bad” cards on people. I’ve seen large men have severe flinch issues. It happens and it’s real. The only real answer I can suggest to those who have this issue is shoot something with less recoil wearing good ear protection and work on your fundamentals. If you can find something that is pleasant and fun to shoot, eventually the issue may resolve itself.

 

[ljalberta]

Lots has been said already I’m sure, but:

1 adding weight to the rifle,
2 double ear pro,
3 smaller cartridge and lighter bullets if possible,
4 learn about the shot process and practice working it through slowly,
5 practice with a trainer rifle if you’re able,
6 more days shooting with less shots on each day to start (so you’re not beating up your shoulder and making the flinch worse).

These are just my amateur tips from a guy who used to also have very bad flinch shooting a T3 .308.

 

[HandgunHTR]

Do you have someone that you can shoot with regularly?

If so, then do this:

First, always wear double hearing protection at the range. Foam plugs in the ear, muffs over. Gunshots are very loud and the noise reduction ratings of hearing protection are based on using them perfectly, which few of us do. The foam plugs must be inserted a specific way and when using the muffs, just how we position our heads for a shot flexes muffs such that we cannot get a perfect seal. Wearing both will help.

Get one of these: https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1002531259?pid=699899
It will further help reduce the recoil. Eventually, you won't need it.

Finally, this is where the friend comes in. Run the following drill when shooting.
- Stand up from the bench and put your back to your rifle
- Have your friend sit down and load the rifle and put the safety on. Have them randomly insert an inert round into the chamber.
- Sit back down at the bench and go through your entire shot process

You will then see the absolute affect of your flinch when you pull the trigger on a non-live round. Once you can see exactly what you are doing, you can start to concentrate on not doing that on each shot.

One more piece of advice. Just like with shooting a bow, while you are doing this, you need to focus on the process from addressing the rifle to trigger pull. Where the shot lands doesn't matter at this point. So, don't even worry about checking your target or what your group size is. Once you can control the flinch, then start worrying about shooting groups.

It also helps if that friend can talk you through the shot process.
- Get a good position of head, hands, and trigger finger
- Sight picture
- Breathing
- Trigger pull

 

[JBradley500]

I'd probably get a 22 Creedmoor or 6mm Creedmoor barrel and have it put on your Tikka.

 

[Marbles]

A 308 Tikka, while an improvement from a 30-06, still has enough recoil to develop a flinch.

Swapping between a 308 Tikka and a 223 Tikka has done the most to fix my flinch, but after a round or two of 308 I have to focus more on shooting than I do with the 223 to avoid it.

My answer was to get a 1:8 twist .243 Tikka (though I just got my barrel back from being threaded and have not shot it yet).

The question comes down to, is it worth fighting your natural reflexes to use the 308? For me, with limited time and money, dropping to something easier to shoot made more since. This is true even though with more and more shooting it is becoming less and less of an issue.

Flinching is a reflex that occurs well below the level of consciousness, it is designed to keep us alive when conscious reactions times would be far too slow. You cannot mind power yourself out of it, though you can train yourself out of it. Training yourself out of it involves thousands of repetitions where your brain does not have a negative outcome (loud noise, shoulder getting shoved around). Trying to just shoot the 308 more is likely to make it worse.

Edit: Read the rest of the thread. I live in Alaska, so moose, big costal browns. Ammo availability is a real concern, you can start reloading for under $1000 USD (I see you are in Canada), I recently started and would not go back. Volume is exceptionally valuable in building skill with a rifle, reloading makes it much cheaper with time (I have already broken even and then gotten ahead vs buying quality factory ammo that is available to me).

If you are set on the 308, you absolutely need a 223 Tikka as a trainer, for both cheaper ammo, and low recoil. A 223 trainer would be of more value than getting into reloading if funds are tight.

 

[Wapiti1]

I didn't read through all of the suggestions. It's all about retraining. You have to relearn the fundamentals.

The only way out of a flinch is to retrain on a low recoil firearm, and work your way up. You can do this with your .308, but will need reduced recoil loads.

First is to master a dry fire. Dry fire until you are able to know the trigger will release, and everything stays still. Some guys balance a quarter on the scope. If you can squeeze off a dry fire shot without the quarter falling off the scope, you're ready to shoot live.

At that point, lowest recoil possible. A .22 is the starting point. Same deal, shoot until you can squeeze it off and nothing moves. You maintain the sight picture, don't close your eyes, or blink, etc.

Next up is a low recoil center fire. 110 or 125 gr bullets with a light load of H4227 would do well in a .308. Enough to kick a couple of ft-lbs, but not enough to hurt. Bump up the charge once you are comfortable with these loads. If you don't reload, Hornady and a few others make reduced recoil ammo.

Consider trading your rifle for a 6.5 Creedmoor.

There are also a few aids that will help. A PAST recoil shoulder pad will help. Or a shot bag between rifle and shoulder. A muzzle brake is advisable, better yet a suppressor. You can tape weight to the fore end or butt of the rifle to lower recoil. Even fill the butt with lead shot under the recoil pad. A 10lb rifle is a pussycat compared to an 8lb rifle. Double up on hearing protection (ear plugs under muffs) to help lower your sound flinch potential.

Lastly, you may need to start standing and not use a bench or shoot prone. Standing is a much more recoil tolerant position, even if you aren't as accurate. Shoot off sticks and focus on the shot process, not where the shot goes. Load, aim, squeeze, maintain sight picture.

Jeremy

 

[antlerz]

My suppressor made shooting enjoyable again. You may want to consider a SME. Sound mitigation device. Is it as effective as a suppressor. No, but it does offer some help. I’ve used the Witt Machine and the Deer Creek. I consider the Deer Creek the better of the two as far as performance.

Deer Creek Arms

Muzzle brakes and compensators made in Wyoming with American steel. Simple, Durable, Effective.

deercreekarms.com

I am uncertain if these are allowed in Canada.

This. Especially for 308 a supressor combines well to make shooting more relaxing and reduce subconscious flinch.

 

[z987k]

Get a $100 6.5cm or 243win barrel for it from ebay or similar, have someone spin it on for you. If somehow you ever think a 6 or 6.5mm isn't enough for everything found in Canada(it is), you can go back to the 308 barrel at a later time.

 

[Bugaboo]

Get a $100 6.5cm or 243win barrel for it from ebay or similar, have someone spin it on for you. If somehow you ever think a 6 or 6.5mm isn't enough for everything found in Canada(it is), you can go back to the 308 barrel at a later time.

I will look into a 6.5 Creedmore barrel, thanks!

 

[Bugaboo]

I didn't read through all of the suggestions. It's all about retraining. You have to relearn the fundamentals.

The only way out of a flinch is to retrain on a low recoil firearm, and work your way up. You can do this with your .308, but will need reduced recoil loads.

First is to master a dry fire. Dry fire until you are able to know the trigger will release, and everything stays still. Some guys balance a quarter on the scope. If you can squeeze off a dry fire shot without the quarter falling off the scope, you're ready to shoot live.

At that point, lowest recoil possible. A .22 is the starting point. Same deal, shoot until you can squeeze it off and nothing moves. You maintain the sight picture, don't close your eyes, or blink, etc.

Next up is a low recoil center fire. 110 or 125 gr bullets with a light load of H4227 would do well in a .308. Enough to kick a couple of ft-lbs, but not enough to hurt. Bump up the charge once you are comfortable with these loads. If you don't reload, Hornady and a few others make reduced recoil ammo.

Consider trading your rifle for a 6.5 Creedmoor.

There are also a few aids that will help. A PAST recoil shoulder pad will help. Or a shot bag between rifle and shoulder. A muzzle brake is advisable, better yet a suppressor. You can tape weight to the fore end or butt of the rifle to lower recoil. Even fill the butt with lead shot under the recoil pad. A 10lb rifle is a pussycat compared to an 8lb rifle. Double up on hearing protection (ear plugs under muffs) to help lower your sound flinch potential.

Lastly, you may need to start standing and not use a bench or shoot prone. Standing is a much more recoil tolerant position, even if you aren't as accurate. Shoot off sticks and focus on the shot process, not where the shot goes. Load, aim, squeeze, maintain sight picture.

Jeremy

I was able to locate some of the 125gr Hornady ammo, and will pick up a few boxes next time I get there, thanks. I might even try to fill the stock with some weights, heard it a couple of times here now and for practicing it wouldn't be a big deal if it's a bit heavier..

 

[Q_Sertorius]

First, and I mean this without being at all patronizing, but this is a very common issue. Most people just won't admit it. And a lot of older people got used to it because they served in the military in an era when we used .30-06 or 7.62 NATO. It's also quite easy to overcome recoil sensitivity.

When I was a kid, I developed a bad flinch from shooting my 8.5 pound 8mm Mauser. That metal butt plate and the 200-grain bullets did a number on 80-pound me wearing a t-shirt. My dad fixed it for me by not letting me know the gun was loaded or not until I got used to it. Here's how:

Go to the range with a friend, a snap cap, and a box of cartridges. Wear hearing protection and whatever clothing you would normally wear hunting. Have him "load" the rifle with either the snap cap or a live round without telling you which it is. He should give you the unknown snap cap routine until you consistently stop anticipating the recoil. After that, it usually helps if he gives you 3-4 unknown snap caps for each unknown live round. But basically, before you are done with the box of cartridges, you can learn to control the flinch and get a good trigger squeeze without anticipating the recoil.

You can also get a suppressor, which will help a lot as well.

And consider that not everyone needs a super light rifle. My preferred hunting rifle is a .25-06 weighing in at 10.8 pounds. I can still carry it all over our mountains, it is well-balanced so I can shoot it offhand, sitting, or prone, and it shoots great. More than enough power to kill anything I want to hunt with proper bullet selection and shot placement. It actually jumps and thumps less with 120-grain bullets than my little .243 does (not that the .243 hurts, but it jumps).

 

[Q_Sertorius]

Also, this may or may not help with overall marksmanship, but I was taught BRASS.

Breathe
Relax
Aim
Slack
Squeeze

Focusing on BRASS and that front sight tip or reticle can do wonders.

As many others have said, it's quite rare for me to feel any recoil - or even get a noticeable ringing in the ears - from a shot on game.

 

[Q_Sertorius]

I am getting used to these forums and noticing that I cannot edit my posts, so I will add one final thing. My general rule of thumb is to fire no more than (40) .243 and up centerfire cartridges in any given session (.223 or similar doesn't count). And I prefer to stick to (20) per session unless I am taking breaks in between.

I like to warm up for shooting with (50) .22LR to focus on fundamentals. Then I will shoot whatever center fire cartridges I plan to shoot, whether that is for sighting in a rifle, checking a zero, basic proficiency, working up a load, etc. And once I am done with the centerfire cartridges, I finish off the day with another (50) .22LR. If at any point during the session I feel a bit fatigued or punchy, I take a break and or switch back to .22LR.

While some will do most of their practice with a .223, that is above my budget. I prefer to use a .22LR single shot with an aperture sight or a .22LR bolt action with a scope for the majority of my practice.

When I am in a good point in my life, I am at the range every other week putting (100-200) .22LR and (20-40) .243 and up centerfire cartridges downrange. I have a number of rifles between .243 and 9.3x62 I can use so I can work through a rotation and not get bored, but I focus on the rifle I expect to use the most. I was looking at what I have available to reload in the near future and noticed that I have (279) .25-06 that is once fired and (260) .270 that is once fired. Not surprisingly, those are the two rifles with which I hunt the most. None of my other rifles has more than (100) once-fired brass on hand.

For you, as a relatively new shooter, the more time you spend with that .308, becoming comfortable with it, the better off you will be. It's a rifle you can certainly master (the average military recruit mastered it and much more powerful cartridges from ca. 1890-1970) and the feeling of pride and confidence you get when you do will be worth far more than dropping down to something "more manageable." If you had not already started shooting the .308, then I would probably tell you to get a 6mm CM or 6.5CM or .243 Win or 7mm08 or something similar. But now that you "have been thrown by that horse" you need to "get back on it."

I hope that helps! Have fun!

 

[TNHighlands]

I shoot a superlight in 7mag.
Relearning a repeatable shot sequence, focusing on the target/crosshairs, and a limbsaver pad have made it to where i can avoid anticipation/flinch.

Agree with what everyone's said here. Only way out is through. You need to get comfortable shooting everything up to your 308. Like any other discipline, bad practice will build bad habits. You need to start from the ground up and build good habits.

 

[Caseknife]

Your vision is likely blurring due to lack of oxygen, you are probably holding your breath. The shot should break as you let out your breath at the bottom of the exhale stage. Relax, breathe in, exhale and squeeze.

 

[WCB]

IMO, 6.5 crd is not going to make a difference. At least in my experience going from similar weight rifles in .308 and 6.5crd. I can say the 6.5 recoils "less" but it isn't like going from my 7rem mag to the .308 or from the 6.5crd to a .223. Where it is very noticeable. Again in my experience it similar to 300win to 7rem...they are in the same "class" recoil wise and when I go from one of those to the next in the identical rifle right down to the scope, sling, size of dope card on the stock and wraps of tape over the muzzle...the difference isn't enough to choose one caliber over the other.

Sounds like the OP's issue as he said is anticipation. and I think without a huge decrease in recoil and "muzzle blast" he is still going to anticipate it because his brain isn't going to flip the switch.

Lighter rounds and adding weight to the gun would probably help and be a cheaper easier option.

 

[Shraggs]

Agree with everyone advice.

Light recoil practice for fundamentals, then confirmation with the recoil, repeat.

One new thing…. If shooting the hard recoiling, just use a 3’x3’ target until you can fire a full box of ammo smiling. Just hit the target. I find small dots also create pressure that amplifies. Then go back to small target dots.

For me, once I realized ft pounds don’t equate to killing, it’s been liberating to shot creed-moor stamped guns with more explosive type bullets. I more lethal at a greater range and practice all day.