First go at once fired brass. Trim question.

[MuleyFever]

I just got done cleaning up my first batch of once fired brass. I have read some old threads on trimming but have a question. Do I want to trim then resize or resize first? I am using a bushing die and mandrel to set neck tension so no expander ball to cause run out.

 

[Ram94]

Resize first, then trim.


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[MuleyFever]

Thanks. Now I just have to decide on if I want to FL resize or just neck size. Thats another thread though. Still cannot make up my mind.

 

[Low_Sky]

FL size, then trim. Sizing changes your brass length, so doesn’t make sense to trim then size.


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[thinhorn_AK]

I always resize, trim, tumble to get all the wax/line off and then chamfer thrm.

 

[N2TRKYS]

Full length size

 

[Brendan]

Don't need to bump back the shoulder until you start to get it affecting bolt close. That probably won't be after 1x, could be as much as 3x.

Great video from Broz on the Longrangeonly.com YouTube channel for that.

 

[MuleyFever]

Don't need to bump back the shoulder until you start to get it affecting bolt close. That probably won't be after 1x, could be as much as 3x.

Great video from Broz on the Longrangeonly.com YouTube channel for that.

I'll look for it but if you have the link please post it.

 

[tdhanses]

I always FL size in a hunting rifle, just an insurance against grit making it hard to chamber a round when it matters.

 

[Brendan]

I'll look for it but if you have the link please post it.

Video using the Redding Competition set. Separate sizing for Neck and Body / Shoulder. I've had multiple people say to not bump the shoulder back until cases grow enough (1-3 firings) to start giving you resistance on bolt close. Then you follow the method in the video and know that your headspace is consistent and based off your chamber. It's what I do anyways.

 

[VernAK]

I always FL size in a hunting rifle, just an insurance against grit making it hard to chamber a round when it matters.

^^^^^^THIS^^^^^^^^

 

[muddydogs]

Why not just set your FL dies up to just bump the shoulder back .002 or so? This way your not FL sizing your brass all the time but you don't have to worry about the round not chambering from just neck sizing.

When ever I have messed around with neck sizing I have found that it changes my point of impact on the target so it just never made since to me. Why have neck sized rounds that shoot one place then have to adjust POI when its time to FL size the brass because it will no longer chamber.

Reloading for 15 bottle neck calibers I get loose primer pockets before neck splits or case head separation by just bumping the shoulder back.

 

[bsnedeker]

Sorry for the potential hijack, but for those saying FL size every time, are you doing this with belted magnums? I just got my first 300 WM and I've always FL sized my brass in my 270 so I did the same with my 300, but on the 3rd firing I had complete case separation. I talked to a local gunsmith and he told me this was a common issue with belted magnums because FL sizing works the brass WAY too much. I've been dinking around with some new cases and have a bunch of 1x fired stuff that I'm about ready to start reloading so I plan to just make sure the bolt closes on them without resistance and firing them. FYI, I do get resistance from my bolt on 1x fired brass. I can certainly close the bolt, but there is some resistance after 1 firing. Maybe I'm an anomoly but this happens on both my 270 and my 300.

Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated!

 

[DangerRanger]

Sorry for the potential hijack, but for those saying FL size every time, are you doing this with belted magnums? I just got my first 300 WM and I've always FL sized my brass in my 270 so I did the same with my 300, but on the 3rd firing I had complete case separation. I talked to a local gunsmith and he told me this was a common issue with belted magnums because FL sizing works the brass WAY too much. I've been dinking around with some new cases and have a bunch of 1x fired stuff that I'm about ready to start reloading so I plan to just make sure the bolt closes on them without resistance and firing them. FYI, I do get resistance from my bolt on 1x fired brass. I can certainly close the bolt, but there is some resistance after 1 firing. Maybe I'm an anomoly but this happens on both my 270 and my 300.

Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated!

How much did you size it? This is a common problem when people size belted brass all the way back to match factory base to shoulder length.

 

[bsnedeker]

How much did you size it? This is a common problem when people size belted brass all the way back to match factory base to shoulder length.

Not really sure honestly, I didn't have a comparator before this issue so I probably was going all the way back to factory. Going forward I plan on sizing just enough to get the bolt to close and I do have a comparator now so I'll measure it to find how much it is bumping it.

 

[204guy]

Not bumping shoulders back .002 or so on a hunting rifle is playing with fire. Pretty helpless feeling not being able to or having to beat your bolt shut to chamber a round.. Ask me how I know.

 

[MuleyFever]

I watched the video from Broz. I used his example of chambering the brass and feeling for resistance. My brass will chamber with no resistance just like his did after he sized it. I don’t see the point in bumping the shoulder if it already chambers easily. I think I have at least one more firing in them before I have to bump the shoulder.

On a side note he used different shell plates to change the amount of bump. Don’t most people just adjust the depth of the die in the press? Or do I need a bunch of shell plates?

 

[DangerRanger]

Not really sure honestly, I didn't have a comparator before this issue so I probably was going all the way back to factory. Going forward I plan on sizing just enough to get the bolt to close and I do have a comparator now so I'll measure it to find how much it is bumping it.

Pull the ejector out and size it enough to let the handle just fall freely. If you arent willing to go through the effort size it 3 thou imo You’ve got some space so you don’t have chambering issues on a hunting rifle, and you’re not sizing 8-10 thou every time. Each time you do that you then fire the case and it stretches 10 thou, that’s likely why you’re only getting 2 sizing and then Having case head separation. Your brass is moving the same amount in 3 firings as it could be moving in 9-10 firings.

I think this is likely to fix your issue, good luck

 

[Low_Sky]

Sorry for the potential hijack, but for those saying FL size every time, are you doing this with belted magnums? I just got my first 300 WM and I've always FL sized my brass in my 270 so I did the same with my 300, but on the 3rd firing I had complete case separation. I talked to a local gunsmith and he told me this was a common issue with belted magnums because FL sizing works the brass WAY too much. I've been dinking around with some new cases and have a bunch of 1x fired stuff that I'm about ready to start reloading so I plan to just make sure the bolt closes on them without resistance and firing them. FYI, I do get resistance from my bolt on 1x fired brass. I can certainly close the bolt, but there is some resistance after 1 firing. Maybe I'm an anomoly but this happens on both my 270 and my 300.

Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated!

Some of my 7 Rem Mag brass (Hornady) is on it’s sixth firing. I’m sure I’m going to be throwing it out for loose primer pockets before I have any case separations or split necks (I anneal).

FL sizing doesn’t necessarily mean “back to SAMMI dimensions” or “cam over the press handle”.

I bump my shoulders 0.002” back from the the point at which the bolt closes with no friction from the case (stripped bolt body and handle only, no firing pin assy and no ejector).


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[muddydogs]

Sorry for the potential hijack, but for those saying FL size every time, are you doing this with belted magnums? I just got my first 300 WM and I've always FL sized my brass in my 270 so I did the same with my 300, but on the 3rd firing I had complete case separation. I talked to a local gunsmith and he told me this was a common issue with belted magnums because FL sizing works the brass WAY too much. I've been dinking around with some new cases and have a bunch of 1x fired stuff that I'm about ready to start reloading so I plan to just make sure the bolt closes on them without resistance and firing them. FYI, I do get resistance from my bolt on 1x fired brass. I can certainly close the bolt, but there is some resistance after 1 firing. Maybe I'm an anomoly but this happens on both my 270 and my 300.

Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated!

Here again like I posted above your post just bump the shoulder back with your FL die .002". Like Low Sky posted I am on 6+ firings of all different head stamp 7mm and 300 WM brass with no case head separation, primer pockets get loose before anything else.