I've been reloading for my 7mm Rem mag for a few years now. I read alot online and there's tons of miss information, so it's very hard to learn. I called Berger bullets and talked to an extremely helpful, and knowledgeable guy there that is on the tech line. He's a few years older than me and started reloading for his dad's 7 mm Rem mag in the late 50's. He's a champion shooter with the owner. He told me how he reloads at target shoots and I was able to get him to educate me enough to know what I needed to know. He told me to bump the shoulder back on fired brass 0.002" He said that's plenty accurate for a hunting rifle. And specifically if you drop a round on the ground or get a bit if dirt you can still cycle the bolt with 0.002" shoulder bump. If you resize to bump the should 0.002" it's not doing much work on the brass. The further back you resize the more you rework the brass and the sooner it will fail. Case hardening is the term. My experience with near full recommended powder charges with 165 accubonds, pretty hot, I started seeing signs of failure at about 5 or so resizings. I annealed the brass and got a few more shots. Annealing is another black hole. The guy at Berger Bullets told me how he does that. I read that guys use a torch with the flame on the shoulder and when the case end is too hot to hold, it's been annealed. I'm an engineer and had to test myself, yes I know. I got temperature paint and painted the shoulders and when the paint melted the case was too hot to hold. LOL..I don't anneal anymore, too much of a hassle and another potential viable in the reloading process.
I'm repeated what a lot of others have said.