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- #41
Umm....no. SFP is what you’re thinking of.FFP has to be on the highest setting to use things like BDC and MIL DOT accurately.
Umm....no. SFP is what you’re thinking of.FFP has to be on the highest setting to use things like BDC and MIL DOT accurately.
I’ve killed a couple hundred or more. Maybe half those with a bow. I try to get close first, regardless of wind.
I’ve tried FFP. Couldn’t get used to it.
And I guess I’ll bite? Which two? SWFA and Nightforce somethings?
Agree with you there! I’d own a NF on every rifle if they made a cleaner reticle.I’m not, nor did I say that someone can’t kill truck loads with about anything. You can do so with irons as well- doesn’t mean that it’s as effective.
Just SWFA 3-9x and 6x. NF reticles are subpar for general work.
You’ve got it opposite buddy.FFP has to be on the highest setting to use things like BDC and MIL DOT accurately.
Which ones are the right ones? I've had 2 SWFAs and neither were great in low light with low magnification in the timber.You are not using the right ffp scopes. If I wanted to, I could hunt all night with my ffp scopes.
Very easy to enter the inputs into a ballistic calculator and have it show you where to hold. Just like a FFP if you don’t have a cheat sheet for wind. Regularly do this when setting up for glassing in the event that a quick shot is needed within X number of yards. Look at the yellow dot; 10 mph crosswind at 550 yards for demonstration.This doesn’t make sense- with a SFP if you are using the reticle to hold wind, then most of the time you need to be on max lower- not so with FFP.
Can you give a few examples of what you mean by “complex reticles, holdovers , dials and FFP”?
Very easy to enter the inputs into a ballistic calculator and have it show you where to hold. Just like a FFP if you don’t have a cheat sheet for wind.
Regularly do this when setting up for glassing in the event that a quick shot is needed within X number of yards. Look at the yellow dot; 10 mph crosswind at 550 yards for demonstration.
Christmas tree reticles are busy. If you can successfully use them for quick shots then I tip my hat to you.
Biggest issue is accurately reading the wind. Most folks that can do that won’t be concerned about their reticle (for the most part).Ah. Part of being able to shoot at distance is accounting for wind. I guarantee you that part of your trouble with wind is your scope preference. A properly designed FFP mil/mil scope is the simplest and easiest solution. It is no hindrance at close range and dominates at distance. Admittedly most FFP scopes have reticle that suck for all around use, which is one of the reasons that two scope are brought up time and again- they work.
Of the 17 game animals I killed, or those I spotted for killed- 14 had significant wind. And a lot were not at long range either.
Biggest issue is accurately reading the wind. Most folks that can do that won’t be concerned about their reticle (for the most part).
Outside a duplex reticle, your reticle choice in and of itself shouldn’t be causing an issue with wind.l (at least those with windage marks). This may be an over generalization on my side.
Lack of knowledge on how to use your reticle may apply but using a reticle preferred by the “more enlightened” won’t magically change that fact.
Give your perfectly dialed-in rifle and scope, with your perfect for wind shots reticle, to someone who is clueless and see how they do. This includes reading the wind on their own.
Then have someone who knows what they are doing, including reading the wind, and give them a dialed-in rifle with the “wrong” reticle and see how they do. My money is on the person that can accurately read the wind.
Wind is a booger.
Yes it is fast and easy for the specific use case I wrote. I sit to glass. I range out to X number of yards. I update my app and look to see which hash mark to use at Y distance; I may cherry pick the magnification to more closely align with the hash marks. I don’t change the magnification for this setup while glassing; excludes shots that I have ample time or if it’s further than what I planned for on the hash marks. Hopefully this is not clear as mud.So your “simple” solution is to use an app to show you were to hold on a certain power? That changes every single time you change power? That you must look at your app before you shoot, because you can’t remember what the lines mean, because they change constantly. And if you change your power it changes again.
Logically this makes sense to you? Would you accept a speedometer that only reads correct at 60mph but is incorrect at all other speeds? What if you had an app that you could input say 42mph, and it would convert it and tell you that you are really driving 57 mph?
And you believe this is quicker, less combersome and less error prone than a tape measure that reads correct at all lengths?
Tree reticles generally suck for general hunting, but every single person can learn to use them competently. One just has to shoot.
What’s up with the NF reticles? I’ve only used the 4-14 SHV and couldn’t find anything I didn’t like about it, but only have a few SWFA’s and LRTS/LRHS to compare tooI’m not, nor did I say that someone can’t kill truck loads with about anything. You can do so with irons as well- doesn’t mean that it’s as effective.
Just SWFA 3-9x and 6x. NF reticles are subpar for general work.
What’s up with the NF reticles? I’ve only used the 4-14 SHV and couldn’t find anything I didn’t like about it, but only have a few SWFA’s and LRTS/LRHS to compare too
I really like most things about my SHV but this thought scares me a lot. I don't use the reticle for holdover but it sure could mess up a wind hold for me.My hunting partner missed a monster 6x6 bull this year because he wasn't on the proper magnification for the reticle holdover to be accurate.
Didn't practice enough to be accurateMy hunting partner missed a monster 6x6 bull this year because he wasn't on the proper magnification for the reticle holdover to be accurate.
My favorites are NF beast/ATACR mil-r, and nxs f1 with a mlr2.0 reticle. Reticle thickness is very well matched to the mag range.Which ones are the right ones? I've had 2 SWFAs and neither were great in low light with low magnification in the timber.
Exactly. I told him this going into season too.Didn't practice enough to be accurate
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