File sharpened “toothy” edge vs razor sharp polished edge?

[PhongH]

In the past I used to be a fanatic about having my broadheads sharpened to a razor honed mirror polished edge. I always hated spending the time honing my broadheads but thought it was absolutely necessary. However over the years I’ve had multiple shots where I’ve recovered my broadheads after the shot only to find them really dull, and upon butchering the animal found that they only hit the on-side ribs. In other words, the broadhead ended up passing through the animal as a dull broadhead. So now I’ve been hunting with good old Zwickeys for the last few years which I’ve only file-sharpened to a “toothy” edge and haven’t really noticed too much of a difference in effectiveness. What are your experiences with the two edges?

 

[nevadabugle]

I guess I would say I use a third edge. Not "mirror honed" by any stretch but a fine edge that shaves hair and bites into a finger nail. Have never lost a deer, elk, or antelope, even with a not so ideal hit. I have recovered them all. Broadheads are fairly sharp in the dirt after unless they hit rocks or gravel.

I would say steel hardness and quality play into this. Softer stamped steels vs harder stainless (or tool) steel. My examples are all harder heads like Day Six, Cutthroat, or Steel Force. The cutthroats are a tool steel I believe.

 

[smoke]

I second with Nevadabugle wrote - pretty much spot on!

 

[Beendare]

I've tried Every possible edge...including serrated. I don't have any scientific double blind results to point to better or worse results.

Worth considering; The knife testing where they cut manila rope indicates that the polished edge is far superior.

I do think having a BH that stays sharp through the animal is critical.

The Animals that opened my eyes on BH design;
I had a couple short Slicktricks in my compound years ago dull something terrible on a hog and Elk that had been wallowing with mud and dirt in their thick hides. I mean dull as heck. The elk wasn't a pass thru...and the hog had its guts pushed out through the hole without cutting. It was obvious the Very thin beveled edge at a shallow angle actually created this dulling by design. The sort shallow angle put the edge plowing in with a lot of hair, hide and bone contact.

I have since gone to a steeper angled head [2 blades and the original Thunderhead] and have not had a head dull in decades. Its been proven that those old school designs have more mechanical advantage slipping into the critter but the key factor is that longer sloping design puts less pressure on the edge.

Yeah, good steel is a factor....but I think it's less of a factor in the longer sloped heads. I've had relatively cheap heads stay sharp with this design.

 

[GreenNDark Timber]

Pretty much the same as Nevadabugle for me. As long as they'll shave hair with ease, they're sharp enough for me. That usually means finishing them on a fine diamond stone and a few stops over leather. Zwickey Delta 2 blade, 4 blade and VPA 3 blades.

 

[Longbow Lunatic]

Nevadabugle nailed it on the head. We used to teach in Bowhunter Education classes years ago that you want a broadhead to easily cut through a few stretched rubber bands, as blood vessels are similar. Heads that shave arm hair easily will slice through a rubber band (and a whitetail) like a hot knife through butter, so that is sharp enough in my book.

 

[Wilderlife]

I've experimented with different edges and they've all worked fine. Flat Stihl chainsaw files are a favourite of mine, especially when I need to bring an edge back after it's hit dirt.

At the moment I typically use a diamond steel that is fairly fine after years of use, and it brings the edge up nicely. It's not a mirror polished edge but it also doesn't feel quite as grabby as one that's purely been made with files. I do like to feel a broadhead grab my finger nail as I push or drag it across and that's a happy place to be.

Sometimes I give my broadheads a strop if I feel like it but it doesn't always happen. I also can't say that I've noticed much difference between all the edges on game, stropped or otherwise.

 

[Tradchef]

I file sharpen and use my stones that I use for my work knives. I use ACE Standards and they sharpen super easy. Touch up with diamond steel and every now and then and have never had an issue on any deer, bear or elk.

 

[Matt Steed]

I have used both, file sharpened and fine Arkansas stone sharpened. On whitetail deer and hog, I can’t really see a difference. I just try to get them as sharp as I can with which ever method I am using. With a file, I can make Zwicky broadheads pop hair but not really shave. I can use a jewel stick and make them shave with ease.Years ago,my son got a complete pass through on a hog with a 32# Bear recurve using a file sharpened Woodsman.

 

[Timplant]

Never met a surgeon who uses a dull blade. Sharp is sharp!

 

[Wrench]

Material matters. Softer steels sharpen easier with a file and will have greater chance of rolling a tip or edge if too thin. Harder steel can be tougher to sharpen with a file but take a thinner edge.... to a point of structural failure.

I have sacrificed lots of heads over the years to see what holds up and that's my condensed answer.

I personally believe that some texture, like that a 400 grit stone might leave does not hurt.

 

[bowhuntercoop]

I’ve gone down the sharpening rabbit hole for broadheads and knifes. All I know is a vpa sharpened with a 12 mil file, then leather stropped will shave hair and blows through critters.

First Mule deer I shot with a stick, I missed 3 other deer and coyote lol. I remember using my leather belt to clean it up lol. Arrow was buried in the off side shoulder of that deer. Was a Magnus stinger, 500 grain arrow and 41-42lbs at my 25 inch draw length.

These days my 3 blade vpa get the file, stropped and ceramic stick. 2 blade and single bevel vpa get the paper wheel. In the field I much prefer a 3 blade and file. Just so easy to touch up.

 

[Beendare]

I love this double sided DMT stone

I like the super light little mini folding ones too

 

[schmidty3]

Paperwheel, plus good head = optimal and quick.

I'll say it, those old laminated heads suck compared to modern offerings.

Missed a buck with a IW, ducked me hard.

Thing laid in the woods for months.

Broke the arrow on a log or something. Dirt + hard impact + months of exposure.

Found it next time I passed thru. Some rust spots but would still shave.

 

[alabamahunt]

I find that near mirror sharp is easier to dull. The broadheads I’ve gotten this sharp are dull just from moving around in my quiver. The ones I’ve tried sharpening hair shaving sharp but with a coarse toothy edge stay sharp much longer. Can even shoot into foam a few times and still shave hair when my near mirror polish broadheads won’t shave hair after one shot. I’d imagine a razor mirror finish broadhead will penetrate better tho

 

[bowhuntercoop]

I find that near mirror sharp is easier to dull. The broadheads I’ve gotten this sharp are dull just from moving around in my quiver. The ones I’ve tried sharpening hair shaving sharp but with a coarse toothy edge stay sharp much longer. Can even shoot into foam a few times and still shave hair when my near mirror polish broadheads won’t shave hair after one shot. I’d imagine a razor mirror finish broadhead will penetrate better tho

Depends on the material used imo, my vpa love a toothy file sharpening with a ceramic stick or leather strop. Iron will need that mirror finish and hold an edge better.

Are they worth 3 to 4x the cost, imo no. A file is cheap lol.

 

[alabamahunt]

Depends on the material used imo, my vpa love a toothy file sharpening with a ceramic stick or leather strop. Iron will need that mirror finish and hold an edge better.

Are they worth 3 to 4x the cost, imo no. A file is cheap lol.

Yeah all I can speak for is Simmons and Vpa

 

[bowhuntercoop]

Yeah all I can speak for is Simmons and Vpa

Simmons are very soft steel even compared to the vpa. I shot a couple critters with Simmons and they make some wicked holes, but I don’t like how easy the tips bend.

 

[Beendare]

Material matters. Softer steels sharpen easier with a file and will have greater chance of rolling a tip or edge if too thin. Harder steel can be tougher to sharpen with a file but take a thinner edge.... to a point of structural failure.

I have sacrificed lots of heads over the years to see what holds up and that's my condensed answer.

I personally believe that some texture, like that a 400 grit stone might leave does not hurt.

Good comment.

Something that feels grabby could be a rough burred edge that rolls over easy. Rolled over = dull.

The competition knife guys have proven that removing that burr and having a honed edge is not only sharper but more durable.

I like a processing knife with quality steel and won't suffer poor steel for that willing to pay the $$$ for steel that will hold an edge. Funny though, I stopped using the expensive BH's. After decades of shooting critters with expensive heads, I find that an inexpensive 2 blade head with a honed edge not only stays sharp through the critters but is reusable with a touch up. Expensive steel BH's have not made a lick of difference IME unless you are shooting Cape or Water buff.

 

[cnelk]

The angle a sharpened edge matters how long it will stay sharp:

Under 10 Degree Angles​

The lowest angles are reserved for edges that are typically cutting softer materials. In this case, the edges are not subject to abuse so the lower angle can be maintained without damage or edge failure. The lowest angles that we typically see are on straight edge razors. These are sharpened to an angle which is roughly 7 to 8 degrees (although the back of the blade is used as a guide so knowing the angle isn’t important and it is not adjustable). A straight razor has a very delicate edge that is very easy to damage. In proper usage, a straight razor would never see the type of use that would damage the edge.

10 to 17 Degrees Angles​

A sharpening angle of 10 to 17 degrees is still quite low for most knives. With a total angle of 20 to 34 degrees, this is still a very fine edge. This edge is typically too weak for any knife that might be used in any type of chopping motion. Also consider that harder steels are also more susceptible to impact damage because they are more brittle. If your knife is used for cutting soft items or slicing meats, this lower angle can hold up and provide a very smooth cutting action.

17 to 22 Degree Angles​

A 17 to 20 degree angle covers most kitchen knives. Some knives (typically Japanese manufacturers) will sharpen their knives to roughly 17 degrees. Most western knives are roughly 20 degrees. It is our experience that kitchen knives sharpened to 15 to 20 degrees cut very well and are still durable. These angles are still not highly durable as a total angle under 40 degrees will not respond well to rougher treatment in harder materials.

22 to 30 Degree Angles​

In this range, the knife edges are considerably more durable. A pocket knife or a hunting knife will inevitably see abuse not seen by knives meant primarily for slicing or chopping softer materials. While the edge may not ultimately cut as well (but you may not notice a difference) it will be considerably more durable.

Over 30 Degrees Angles​

Any edged tool or knife that is sharpened past 30 degrees will be very durable. Its cutting ability will be noticeably reduced. This durability has an advantage because more force can be used to make the cut. While the majority of knives won’t benefit from this sharpening angle, an edged tool like a machete, cleaver or axe must be durable as the typical cutting action of these tools would damage other edges.