"Falling out" of your peep at longer distances

[chasewild]

If you’re bailing out of your peep at distance adjusting your peep will only be treating the symptom and not the disease.

Shorten your Dloop 1/16” of an inch

If you don’t have room to adjust your d loop then you’ll need to twist your string to shorten DL slightly.

Shorten the release length slightly if it’s a wrist strap.

Grip the release slightly deeper in your hand if it’s a handheld

The problem becomes worse when we run out of room to expand properly through the shot. You begin to run out of leverage at Distance, which is also seen at angled shots.

IMHO peep height position is a function of face geometry and the most commonly anticipated shot. Shooting and practicing distance is fun with your buddies but will ultimately create more bad habits than anything if you don’t know what you’re doing to yourself.

When we over expand too early in the shot process our body begins to cheat and starts changing joint angles to compensate. Release side elbow drops and begins to wrap behind the shooters head, bow arm extends, hips shift forward, head tilts rearward. Body starts to use too much muscle and we make a shitty shot.

The only joints we have available when shooting a bow that can expand in a linear function are our fingers when shooting a handheld

If shooting a wrist strap, the strap itself sliding about the wrist creates the required linear activation.

Short of it; you don’t have any leverage on your backside to execute properly before the face begins to move down and away from your peep.


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This is some next level analysis here.


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[dkime]

This is some next level analysis here.


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I am a man of very few talents……


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[TX_hunter]

Peep height can be somewhat counterintuitive.

A higher peep will give you MORE range on your sight tape.
A lower peep will give you LESS range on your sight tape.

However, the higher your peep is, the more likely you will experience "falling out of the peep" and long range. Your anchor point/release hand HAS to move down to keep your line of sight through your peep to a housing that is now LOWER, so your release hand has to go lower. This creates and odd feeling and depending on your starting point pay result in difficulty keeping a solid anchor/contact from your release hand to your face.

I see people all the time claiming they don't change their anchor when shooting with a slider, but that isn't true. It's simple geometry. You are lining up a triangle between your release hand, eyeball, and scope. The line from your eyeball to scope has to go through your peep. When your scope moves down for longer range, that line is interrupted, and your release hand has to move down to line everything back up.

So if you start out with your peep lower, it will more easily line up with your scope once you dial lower for longer range. However this will decrease your max range, so it's a tradeoff between easier centering of your peep at max range vs less max ranger.

Through trial and error I've found a peep height that lets me shoot to max ranger (until I run out of scope clearance) and can still shoot well at close range. It feel most comfortable in the middle of the adjustment range. For me this is 4.2inches at full draw from center of arrow to center of peep. This may be more or less for someone else based on how you anchor and face shape. But once you find it, measure it at full draw and it's easy to repeat when you get a new bow.

 

[Jon_G]

Peep height can be somewhat counterintuitive.

A higher peep will give you MORE range on your sight tape.
A lower peep will give you LESS range on your sight tape.

However, the higher your peep is, the more likely you will experience "falling out of the peep" and long range. Your anchor point/release hand HAS to move down to keep your line of sight through your peep to a housing that is now LOWER, so your release hand has to go lower. This creates and odd feeling and depending on your starting point pay result in difficulty keeping a solid anchor/contact from your release hand to your face.

I see people all the time claiming they don't change their anchor when shooting with a slider, but that isn't true. It's simple geometry. You are lining up a triangle between your release hand, eyeball, and scope. The line from your eyeball to scope has to go through your peep. When your scope moves down for longer range, that line is interrupted, and your release hand has to move down to line everything back up.

So if you start out with your peep lower, it will more easily line up with your scope once you dial lower for longer range. However this will decrease your max range, so it's a tradeoff between easier centering of your peep at max range vs less max ranger.

Through trial and error I've found a peep height that lets me shoot to max ranger (until I run out of scope clearance) and can still shoot well at close range. It feel most comfortable in the middle of the adjustment range. For me this is 4.2inches at full draw from center of arrow to center of peep. This may be more or less for someone else based on how you anchor and face shape. But once you find it, measure it at full draw and it's easy to repeat when you get a new bow.

I posted this a while ago when I knew much less about this topic then now. But the beauty is that I'm still learning a ton. I got my first target bow recently and I just learned about torque tuning

Anyhow, when it comes to the whole peep thing and people claiming they don't change their anchor when using a slider, I totally agree with you. I no longer focus on what part of my face I'm touching on every single shot. George Ryals from last chance archery made a video explaining how the peep is your anchor. Your hand position touching your face is only to keep your hand from shaking and that's absolutely true. I shoot my hunting rig more accurately than I've ever shot before.

 

[TX_hunter]

I posted this a while ago when I knew much less about this topic then now. But the beauty is that I'm still learning a ton. I got my first target bow recently and I just learned about torque tuning

Anyhow, when it comes to the whole peep thing and people claiming they don't change their anchor when using a slider, I totally agree with you. I no longer focus on what part of my face I'm touching on every single shot. George Ryals from last chance archery made a video explaining how the peep is your anchor. Your hand position touching your face is only to keep your hand from shaking and that's absolutely true. I shoot my hunting rig more accurately than I've ever shot before.

Correct.

What matters is your peep lining up with your scope exactly the same. Technically doesn't matter what your release hand is doing assuming you can hold it steady, and the arrow will go where the pin is.

I think people get confused because in other types of shooting, your anchor (hand on face) absolutely matters. For example olympic recurve where they use a front sight/scope but no peep.

 

[River Reaper]

I actually moved my peep sight up and developed a new anchor point lower on my jaw so as to gain more distance on my sight tape. It has become super comfortable and consistent over time, and now just feels like my natural anchor point. Has no negative effect for my fixed pin distances.