Factory Barrel Removal and Viper vice hack

Only issue i've had in removal is the 31mm wrench leaving an ever so slight blemish on the action even with note cards for protection. Trying to find a better way.
 
Here’s my setup. I’m one for three on tikka removals. I don’t know how big the “bolts” are but the nuts take a 22mm socket to remove. I’ve screwed the threads up on both I’ve had it so tight. I have about a 3’ stick of both 1x1 and 2x2 square tubing that I use to smack the action wrench. I really need a viper vise. IMG_9255.jpeg
 
Only issue i've had in removal is the 31mm wrench leaving an ever so slight blemish on the action even with note cards for protection. Trying to find a better way.
Wheeler #1 action wrench is what I do and I’ve been 3/3 with no marking. I tried the 31mm and had similar results as you.
 
Wheeler #1 action wrench is what I do and I’ve been 3/3 with no marking. I tried the 31mm and had similar results as you.

Same here. Wheeler #1 with the top cap flipped over and index cards (or business cards) between the wrench and the action.
 
I don't have the Viper vise, but I fashioned some oak blocks a la' Wheeler's vise and with rosin I'm still slipping with this mauser barrel. Just stuck it in the deep-freeze to see if I can contract the barrel and warm the action tomorrow. Lord, beer me strength.
 
I don't have the Viper vise, but I fashioned some oak blocks a la' Wheeler's vise and with rosin I'm still slipping with this mauser barrel. Just stuck it in the deep-freeze to see if I can contract the barrel and warm the action tomorrow. Lord, beer me strength.

Kroil will solve your problems. It’s pricey but it’s like a hot knife through butter.


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I don't have the Viper vise, but I fashioned some oak blocks a la' Wheeler's vise and with rosin I'm still slipping with this mauser barrel. Just stuck it in the deep-freeze to see if I can contract the barrel and warm the action tomorrow. Lord, beer me strength.

For the one Mauser that I did, I ended up having to do a relief cut to get it off.

As for the Lord beering you... :unsure:
 
I found that the direction you twist the paper around the barrel makes a difference. Can't remember if is was clockwise or counter clockwise, but as the barreled action turns, the paper will actually tighten more and more...kinda like a Chinese finger trap. The more you pull, the more it tightens around your finger (or the barrel in this case.)
 
Yes, I agree cutting the top of the vise seemed to make a difference. The barrel kept spinning when I tried to remove it so I remembered this post and cut mine the same and the next hammer strike the barrel didn’t move but the receiver did.
 
I feel like when you clamp the barrel really tight it can squish the barrel out of round making it harder to pop loose. further away from the action seems to help. The split viper vise is genius. Damaging the action is my biggest concern. I think it's easier to tweak one than people realize. I've did relief cuts just because I don't like torquing on a Tikka action that hard.
 
In my experience with the viper, the action has to be as close to the vise as possible to make it work. The top plate bends and the bottom plate galls under more than 40 foot pounds on the bolts so I don't see the hard round steel barrel smushing.
 
Here's a good pic showing why the viper barrel vise doesn't work well on a tikka barrel.

It's only grabbing a limited surface area.

The middle is only marked because we spun a barrel today after we cut the top plate.

The howa barrel we pulled went great.



IMG_5773.jpeg
 
Cutting the viper in half moves like half of the pressure further from the action. I'm sure that helps.
 
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