Erratic grouping

Deywalker

FNG
Joined
Sep 18, 2021
Messages
84
I'm confident this is something I'm doing, but working full time with limited daylight I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong before it's dark and I have to pack up and go. Shooting off a bag, I can't get my .223 t3x to group consistently at all. I went out today to zero for my 62gr fusions, and I got one almost decent group, but the rest look more like the 2nd. Any suggestions for what I should check for in my technique/form?
 

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Northpark

WKR
Joined
Mar 8, 2015
Messages
1,140
Check your scope base and ring screws. Check your action screws for the correct torque. Check to make sure your barrel is free floated. Have those rounds grouped well in the past? Or are they new?
 

LaHunter

WKR
Joined
Mar 9, 2013
Messages
1,418
Location
N.E. LA
what scope and what type of scope mounting system?
Have you double checked all fasteners torque (scope mounts & action screws)?
Are you able to shoot better than this with other rifles?
 

OXN939

WKR
Joined
Jun 28, 2018
Messages
1,864
Location
VA
I'm confident this is something I'm doing, but working full time with limited daylight I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong before it's dark and I have to pack up and go. Shooting off a bag, I can't get my .223 t3x to group consistently at all. I went out today to zero for my 62gr fusions, and I got one almost decent group, but the rest look more like the 2nd. Any suggestions for what I should check for in my technique/form?

Sounds like this could be a sample size thing. A lot of times, when guys shoot a really good group, they assume that it was a combination of things done correctly and look to repeat those. In reality, it's just as likely that it was a statistical outlier until it has been repeated and verified- even a 1.5 MOA load will give you a sub-MOA group a percentage of the time.
 
OP
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Deywalker

FNG
Joined
Sep 18, 2021
Messages
84
Check your scope base and ring screws. Check your action screws for the correct torque. Check to make sure your barrel is free floated. Have those rounds grouped well in the past? Or are they new?
what scope and what type of scope mounting system?
Have you double checked all fasteners torque (scope mounts & action screws)?
Are you able to shoot better than this with other rifles?
SWFA 6x in sportsmatch rings. All the fasteners are degreased, torqued and sealed with Loctite. cut the nubs off but haven't done any further free floating. best group I've shot in recent memory is probably a 2ish moa 10 shot group from my CTR, so nothing to write home about. I've had issues with horizontal stringing with this rifle in that past so I'm aware that I need to put some work in
Sounds like this could be a sample size thing. A lot of times, when guys shoot a really good group, they assume that it was a combination of things done correctly and look to repeat those. In reality, it's just as likely that it was a statistical outlier until it has been repeated and verified- even a 1.5 MOA load will give you a sub-MOA group a percentage of the time.
I'm kind of doubtful its a sample size thing. I'm not expecting sub moa 10 shot groups, however 1.5-2moa seems like it should be well within the rifle capabilities. My output with with the rifle is more like 3 moa on a good day. That combined with POA/POI being fairly close, and then suddenly it seems to shift drastically makes me fairly certain I'm the one messing up.
 
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NMTGrad

FNG
Joined
May 29, 2021
Messages
25
I have a lot of experience with Tikka rifles, so I will offer these few thoughts. First, my experience with Tikkas chambered in varmint cartridges is that they have trouble stabilizing the “deer” bullets like the Fusions and the Barnes. I had a .22-250 and a .223 that were both one hole rifles with varmint bullets. When I tried to step up to Fusions, Partitions, and Barnes, my target looked like I used a shotgun. Both rifles literally went from 1/4 MOA to 4-6”.

Assuming that isn’t the problem, then check the easiest mechanical issues first. Check the scope ring screws and scope base screws and make sure they are properly torqued (use a torque wrench). If those are fine, check that the action screws are properly torqued. If those are fine, then it is possible that the bedding lug needs some attention. Tikkas use a unique bedding lug in comparison to almost everyone else. If that lug starts to loosen up in the stock, you will get a wandering zero, although that usually manifests with the group shifting left to right to left as opposed to vertically. I had this in an M695 in .25-06 and had to have a gunsmith re-bed and secure that lug.

All that being said, looking at your group and knowing what my Tikka .22-250 and .223 thought about “deer” bullets, my first guess is that your rifle hates those rounds.
 

NMTGrad

FNG
Joined
May 29, 2021
Messages
25
I have a lot of experience with Tikka rifles, so I will offer these few thoughts. First, my experience with Tikkas chambered in varmint cartridges is that they have trouble stabilizing the “deer” bullets like the Fusions and the Barnes. I had a .22-250 and a .223 that were both one hole rifles with varmint bullets. When I tried to step up to Fusions, Partitions, and Barnes, my target looked like I used a shotgun. Both rifles literally went from 1/4 MOA to 4-6”.

Assuming that isn’t the problem, then check the easiest mechanical issues first. Check the scope ring screws and scope base screws and make sure they are properly torqued (use a torque wrench). If those are fine, check that the action screws are properly torqued. If those are fine, then it is possible that the bedding lug needs some attention. Tikkas use a unique bedding lug in comparison to almost everyone else. If that lug starts to loosen up in the stock, you will get a wandering zero, although that usually manifests with the group shifting left to right to left as opposed to vertically. I had this in an M695 in .25-06 and had to have a gunsmith re-bed and secure that lug.

All that being said, looking at your group and knowing what my Tikka .22-250 and .223 thought about “deer” bullets, my first guess is that your rifle hates those rounds.
SWFA 6x in sportsmatch rings. All the fasteners are degreased, torqued and sealed with Loctite. cut the nubs off but have done any further free floating. best group I've shot in recent memory is probably a 2ish moa 10 shot group from my CTR, so nothing to write home about. I've had issues with horizontal stringing with this rifle in that past so I'm aware that I need to put some work in

I'm kind of doubtful its a sample size thing. I'm not expecting sub moa 10 shot groups, however 1.5-2moa seems like it should be well within the rifle capabilities. My output with with the rifle is more like 3 moa on a good day. That combined with POA/POI being fairly close, and then suddenly it seems to shift drastically makes me fairly certain I'm the one messing up.
I just saw your reply that you’ve had horizontal stringing. That is sometimes a “wandering zero” that is a byproduct of a loose recoil log in the Tikkas. Check that lug. Check the inlet where it sits. There should be absolutely no play to that lug when it’s sitting in the inlet in the stock.
 
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Deywalker

FNG
Joined
Sep 18, 2021
Messages
84
All that being said, looking at your group and knowing what my Tikka .22-250 and .223 thought about “deer” bullets, my first guess is that your rifle hates those rounds.
Are yours 1:8 twist as well?
I just went back and reseated my rifle in the stock and double checked all the fasteners, hopefully I can hit the range soon and see how it does.
 

TheGDog

WKR
Joined
Jun 12, 2020
Messages
3,409
Location
OC, CA
With my .223 when I just got it, when I mounted the aftermarket scope, without realizing it I had partially stripped some of the threads on one of the scope ring bottoms. And the way the problem manifested itself was quite odd.

I was at the range trying to get it sighted-in, and I'd be walking over the adjustments... then from one shot to the next it acted that the shot flipped over about the Y-axis. Was so weird. But before it did that, it was grouping "ok" and seemed to be responding appropriately to my scope clicker adjustments.

So apparently what was happening was it was holding it "good enough" for a while until a particular shot would cause that scope mounted in those rings where not all 4 where legit... to finally move over a smidge. And then after some certain number of more shots while trying to adjust more, it would then flip-flop back over to the other side of the Y-axis.

After asking around and learning what to inspect, noted the threads on that one screw hole, so ordered a DNZ Game-Reaper 1-piece mount. Been very pleased with it ever since.

-=-=-=-

Just for some perspective. When I first sighted in my .308 when I got it... I was using the Barnes TTSX which it liked and were very accurate. Then, my thought was to save that "good ammo" so I'd just do some practice with some less expensive Fiocchi Shooting Dynamics. And WTH!?!? It wasn't even hitting anywhere on the target! After frustrating myself with that crappy ammo, I had to see something.... so I put back in the Barnes TTSX and sure enough.. BOOM, back to being right on-target.

So yeah... sometimes your rifle can just really really not like a certain load.
 
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