Element/Injexion Issues...

[Brandon Pattison]

70# (maxed out), 29.5" DL, 28" carbon to carbon 330s, 100 grain heads, 2012 Element, Hoyt/QAD rest, factory strings, and timing is correct.

I am getting a left tear which means: too weak of an arrow, move the rest in, turn down the poundage. None of this seems to make a difference. Let's assume I have perfect form. Is it the cam lean? What do you recommend? Broadhead tuning?

 

[OR Archer]

That arrow is not to weak. Assuming that the cam timing is correct I would look at top cam lean. If that is correct then Id focus on the shooter. I see a lot of shooters with good front grips but they cram the string into their face. This will cause a lot of left right issues through paper. Too long of a draw will also do it.

If this is your bow try having someone take a pic of you at full draw and post it up so we can take a look at the draw length and how your anchoring.

 

[bowhnter7]

Paper punching is for spotties......tust me I know.

Is the set up accurate, do the arrows hit the mark at all yardages, do the B-heads hit with the points? If so save yourself some frustration.

Most of my set up that shoot great end up with a high left tear when I check it with paper after all the other tuning. I don't change it just to get a pretty hole.

 

[J-Daddy]

Shoot a bare shaft and see what it does...Try some yoke tuning.

 

[josh lander]

Sounds like fletching contact.

 

[Brandon Pattison]

Should I expect to see bullet holes or am I still going to see the arrow's cycle?

Is it more important to have broadheads and field points impact the same?

I put string wax on the vanes to see if it was hitting and I show nothing.

 

[Jeff Martin]

I shoot the RKT Element and I couldnt have a better bullet hole. Its perfect.

I would try:
Check timing - my timing was bad straight out of the box
Shoot bare shaft
try a friends arrow - see if you get best results.

I always hate the advice of moving your rest or anything to chase an issue. Set your bow up right, and figure out what is wrong. Yoke? Timing? Arrow contact? etc...

 

[Xtorminator]

Cam lean, I had the same issue on mine last year. A few twists in the yoke and you will be good.

 

[swat8888]

Don't have the same Hoyt, I have the Rampage XT...but I also had a cam lean issue. Few twists and I was good....at least it brought bare shafts and FPs together....I didn't paper tune.

 

[Brandon Pattison]

Does anyone have a link for a good tutorial on what the lean/lack there of should be?

I shoot the RKT Element and I couldnt have a better bullet hole. Its perfect.

I would try:
Check timing - my timing was bad straight out of the box
Shoot bare shaft
try a friends arrow - see if you get best results.

I always hate the advice of moving your rest or anything to chase an issue. Set your bow up right, and figure out what is wrong. Yoke? Timing? Arrow contact? etc...

 

[dreamingbig]

Not to thread jack but my broadheads are hitting 2" right still at 30 yards. My setup is a Hoyt Maxxis 35 at 70lbs with 27.5" draw length. Arrows are Goldtip 7595 pro hunters in camo (for the extra weight) cut to 28.25" tipped with 125 grain shuttle ts with 10 grain extra weight up front (screwed into the insert).

I am suspecting cam lean as I have moved my rest 3/16th to 1/4 to the left with no change other than to move both my field points and broadheads right with same spread. If I do have cam lean is it most likely a left lean and would you suggest a couple twists in right yoke to move it right? Visual inspection makes it appear to maybe be a slight left lean at static position (not full draw). Please help!

 

[Sonoran]

Frankin and Dreaming......On every CE RKT I have seen including mine if you align the top cam to be perfectly vertical at rest or full draw you will likely have horizontal nock travel issues and broadheads and bareshafts will impact to the right. Because of the stiffness of the riser, the A2A and the beefy roller guard the bow needs to have the top cam lean to the left quite a bit at rest and a little at full draw. Most CE's out of the box need around 4-5 full twists on the top left yoke cable to achieve perfect nock travel. I use POI bareshaft tuning to correct this so both the fletched and bareshaft impact the same at 20yds. I do this only after I have set my center shot to the best of my ability using modified french tuning at 3yds and 60 yds. If the barshaft hits high or low of the fletched arrow then move you nock point in the opposite direction of the POI on the vertical plane. If you can get the bareshaft to impact a dense foam target right with your fletched arrow and the nock is straight in line with the fletched shaft then you can pretty much put almost any broadhead on your arrow and be good to go. FYI Of the 3 CE's I have seen that all use the Hoyt QAD Ultra Rest the rest ends up right around the 4th or 5th notch from the right on the horizontal scale for a right handed shooter....

 

[dreamingbig]

Thanks for the reply. Sounds like I need to give my left yoke a few twists and see how that goes!

 

[OR Archer]

I caution everyone that by putting twists in just the left yoke will change your timing. it will shorten your buss cable and thus effect the timing. instead of just putting twists into one side of the yoke you can do two turns in the left and take two turns out of the right. this will give you the same effect as just putting 4 twists into the left yoke. this will help keep the buss cable at the same length you started with and not effect the timing. that being said its always a good idea to recheck your cam timing before proceeding further. if your cam timing is off due to yoke tuning you're just spinning your wheels and the bows not going to tune right.

 

[dreamingbig]

OR Archer - those were my thoughts as well thus I added 3 left and undid 3 right. Worked like a champ so far. Testing beyond 30 yards today.

 

[Sonoran]

Hey Sorry Dreaming I just re-read my post and forgot to mention that but as OR Archer says of course you have to remove twists on one side of the yoke as you add to the other or you will get your limb geometry out of whack. Having a drawboard is a huge help when using this tuning method and I always check my timing after making twists in the yoke. I also check the timing before I address any vertical nock travel issues. I'm happy this is workign for you!

 

[Brandon Pattison]

Modified French Tuning?

 

[MULEY CRAZY]

Dreaming, I think 5575 would be better for your set up, maybe I'm wrong though.

 

[OR Archer]

Dreaming when trying to get broadheads and field points to impact you would need to move the rest in the direction of the broadheads not the field points. Do it in small increments, say 1/32 at a time. After adjusting the rest re-sight your field tips then shoot your broadheads again. You'll see the gap get smaller and smaller until they are impacting the same.

 

[Evan Williams]

Your set-up sounds correct!!! Here is what I would do. FIRST....at full draw make sure you HAVE cam lean!!! Add 4 twists to the left side split yoke. see where that takes you!! SECOND ( and you aren't going to want to hear this... ) in MY opinion its more of a rest issue on that bow. EVERY RKT cam Hoyt I have set-up this year has liked a limb driven rest over anything else. See if you can get your hands on a LimbDriver, Smackdown, Pro-Drop or Versa from Hamskea and play with it.

All of my RKTs tuned and shot MUCH better with cam lean in the top. Cam leaning left to right when at full draw. There is my 2 cents on the RKTs.