Ejector Roll Pin Stuck

Desert Dan

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Jan 31, 2018
Messages
274
Location
Lansing, Michigan
Hello,
Recently I've been working on my old Winchester Model 70 and in getting it ready to work up some hand loads I went to punch out the ejector spring pin to measure COAL and discovered it was stuck to the point where tapping on it started to bend the pin punch. Tried soaking it overnight in Kroil but that didn't do it and currently I'm soaking it it Bore Tech C4. I was wondering if anyone has run into a similar problem and what you did to solve it. As far as I know the pin has never removed (it's a 1993 model) and even though the rifle was kept clean and in a dry safe for its lifetime I suspect the problem developed over the life of the rifle. Really trying to avoid taking it to a gunsmith if possible. Thanks.
 
I was confused by the terms “old”, “m70” and “ejector spring”, until I realized you think 1993 is an old rifle! Come on now!

sorry I don’t have a fix for ya other than penetrating oil and heat, as has been said already.
 
Are you using a good roll pin punch? A cheap one can actually bind it up.
 
Are you using a good roll pin punch? A cheap one can actually bind it up.

Agree with that. Make sure it’s the right size and a correct roll pin punch with the little bump on the end, not a flat faced pin punch. Also, try going the other direction. It can take a pretty good whack with a bigger hammer
 
Are you using a good roll pin punch? A cheap one can actually bind it up.

I think so. I picked up the Wheeler set which seems to be a decent one. It worked without any problems on another rifle. I'm going to try an acetone/ATF mix today and see how that works.
 
Are you compressing the ejector as you try to drive it out? If not, itll help..... and work through a ziploc bag or you will launch parts clear to Israel.
 
Work from the bottom of the bolt. Someone once told me that they were assembled from the top, so you want to drive it out from the bottom. Not sure if that is true, but I go with it.

You may need to get another punch, and shorten one of them to about 3/8" so there is less shaft to bend. Then use that stub punch to get it moving. Use the long punch to finish the job. Definitely work inside a baggy.

Grace also makes good punches. I've not used anything but driver bits from Wheeler.

Jeremy
 
Are you compressing the ejector as you try to drive it out? If not, itll help..... and work through a ziploc bag or you will launch parts clear to Israel.

I have not yet but I"ll give that a try soon as I let the acetone and ATF work at it a little.

Work from the bottom of the bolt. Someone once told me that they were assembled from the top, so you want to drive it out from the bottom. Not sure if that is true, but I go with it.

You may need to get another punch, and shorten one of them to about 3/8" so there is less shaft to bend. Then use that stub punch to get it moving. Use the long punch to finish the job. Definitely work inside a baggy.

Grace also makes good punches. I've not used anything but driver bits from Wheeler.

Jeremy

Thank you I will give that a try as well. Two punches came with the set so if need be I can trim the bent one and do that.
 
I do believe you’re supposed to relieve pressure on the ejector.
 
That little plunger spring pressure isn’t going to impede driving a roll pin.

Good idea taking it to a pro. Probably save yourself a lot of headache.
 
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