Durable arrow build

[big44a4]

Something to add is a TI collar with a standard Easton aluminum HIT will save your shaft some but the HIT will eventually bend hurting accuracy.

 

[5MilesBack]

It depends on what your definition or expectations are for "durable". I shoot 70+lbs at 32.5"+ draw so "durability" is right up there at the top of my list with consistency and accuracy. I expect my arrows to survive hitting rocks, gravel, etc after passing through grouse, or any other game. I expect the same if I were to miss or shoot through a 3D target.

So given that.....I haven't found a regular diameter arrow that survives that every time. But I've been using the .204" ID arrows for about two decades with pretty good results. The smaller diameter arrows generally have thicker side walls for better durability. But I also prefer weaved carbon arrow shafts because they have proven to be the most durable for me.

I always use HIT inserts in my arrows, and have never used collars because from my experience I just haven't had a need to. I also prefer the streamlined looks and feel of an arrow without a collar.

So far the toughest arrows I've used are (all weaved carbon):

1. Trophy Ridge Crush 300's - discontinued for quite some time now, but by far the toughest arrows I've had.
2. Sirius Apollo's - tough arrows, but I never could get them to shoot as accurate as I'd like.
3. Victory RIP TKO's - what I currently use. Been using these for four years and haven't broken one yet.

 

[fatlander]

[mention]Mighty Mouse [/mention] summed it up pretty well. I’ve also had great luck over the years with axis (5mm) shafts with HIT brass inserts, sans collars.

If you’re going 4mm, the only thing durable is going to be a glue in or deep six IMO. Half outs just suck, period.

Axis strikes great balance of price and durability. The value to performance scale really starts sliding beyond that. 6.5 mm shafts with brass inserts are tough to beat for the price. You can build 3-4 dozen for the price of equally tough 4mm shafts.


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[N2TRKYS]

Gold Tip(GT) Hunters or if you want to spend more money, the GT Hunter XTs. I’ve been using them for over a decade and have seen no reason to change. I’ve killed a buck with the same arrow the last 3 seasons. All I do is clean the blood and dirt of it and change the blades on my broadheads.

 

[The grunt]

I guess if the standards cost half as much you could afford twice as many arrows, so if they are slightly less durable who cares. It seems like there is a bit of a tipping point between cost and durability between some of the options.. inevitably I will send one into something way to hard or lose it then BAM 30- 40 bucks down the drain.. I suck at shooting in the wind so any misses that I have I doubt can be attributed to wind drift. Anyways thanks for the responses good to hear folks experiences!

 

[Collin304]

Victory RIP TKO. HIT insert with collar. Depending on your FOC desires use steel or titanium for the insert and collar. I’ve yet to break one of these arrows. With that being said I’m going to try the Victory HLR’s this year.


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[The grunt]

Victory RIP TKO. HIT insert with collar. Depending on your FOC desires use steel or titanium for the insert and collar. I’ve yet to break one of these arrows. With that being said I’m going to try the Victory HLR’s this year.


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I'm curious why you are switching? A little bit lighter?

 

[Collin304]

I'm curious why you are switching? A little bit lighter?

Yes, primarily a whitetail hunter and I’ve never had pass through issues only deer ducking arrows occasionally so I’d like to try a lighter faster arrow and have a good TAC arrow as well and I feel like the hlr will fit the dual purpose pretty well. Hopefully my inkling is correct.


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[Beendare]

Increased Durability;

1. 6mm or 5mm at 9 GPI or more, more is better [its more carbon in the construction]
2. Go up one spine size
3. Mill the ends of the carbon so they are perfectly square/flat

 

[fatlander]

Yes, primarily a whitetail hunter and I’ve never had pass through issues only deer ducking arrows occasionally so I’d like to try a lighter faster arrow and have a good TAC arrow as well and I feel like the hlr will fit the dual purpose pretty well. Hopefully my inkling is correct.


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Without increasing draw weight or going to a faster bow, more often than not its going to mean building a less durable arrow. Lighter shafts just aren’t as durable as heavier shafts. That’s a broad generalization, but it’s rang true in the vast majority of my experiences over the years.

Whitetails are cagey, especially as the season goes on and ambient noise drops. The deer get pressured, leaves fall off the trees, and background noise is non existent.

Try to not shoot at deer with their head down. It’s much easier for them to get out of the way with their head down feeding than when their head is up. 25-40 seems to be the ranges whitetails can really get out of the way in a hurry. Inside of 25 I haven’t had many issues with deer ducking and beyond 40 they don’t hear the bow. That’s a whole different rabbit hole. I’m not saying you can’t or shouldn’t shoot whitetails at longer distances but it’s got its own host of challenges. I’ve killed north of 100 whitetails with the bow and I can count on one hand how many have been beyond 35 yards.


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[KBC]

I shoot axis 5mm with a 50 grain brass insert, Ironwill collar and 125 grain points. I shoot at the steel elk more than I probably should and hit steel more than I should too…
About 70% of the time I just need to put a new point on when I hit steel. The other 30% of the time, I break the odd arrow but most of the time I just need to sand the end of the carbon a bit and square it up.
74 lbs with a 30” DL. Arrows are about 535 grains going 270ish