Dremel bits for inletting/bedding stocks with aluminum blocks

Often when working with aluminum I found slower rpm is better.
I slowed it down and the bits did great. Which probably means the ones that appear dull are clogged like @TaperPin suggested. The aluminum is about the color of the bits so it is really hard to tell - it looks like the edges just wore away. I’ll try some lye. Totally newbie mistakes. Thank you
 
I slowed it down and the bits did great. Which probably means the ones that appear dull are clogged like @TaperPin suggested. The aluminum is about the color of the bits so it is really hard to tell - it looks like the edges just wore away. I’ll try some lye. Totally newbie mistakes. Thank you

If you didn’t use any coolant, then it was probably heat that killed your bits. Running them as high RPM increases the heat, which in turn can ruin the temperature on the bits, causing the sharp edges to round over.
 
I slowed it down and the bits did great. Which probably means the ones that appear dull are clogged like @TaperPin suggested. The aluminum is about the color of the bits so it is really hard to tell - it looks like the edges just wore away. I’ll try some lye. Totally newbie mistakes. Thank you
Glad it’s working out.

Looking back I remember a time thinking burrs that are more coarse might be better at not clogging, so I found an expensive brand of solid carbide offering very aggressive models, probably $50 for a single burr, and much more aggressive than anything from Dremel. The very first, second and third time I tried a climbing cut on a receiver inlet, the burr aggressively pulled itself out of the inside of the stock and scratched the hell out of the finished exterior of the stock! Omg was I shocked. *chuckle*
 
I think Nathan knows how to make a rifle accurate and can shoot long in field conditions better than most of us, regardless of peoples opinions of his ballistics research. It makes sense in my mind at least to have a little thicker epoxy to make it more durable. There is plenty of aluminum left in this stock. Im probably removing 5% of it.

The intention of the thread was not to ask for bedding advice, though I appreciate the well meaning responses.

In that case, go with this style. They do not load:


Available on eBay, Amazon, etc.
 
Some tips from a machinist for some of you guys.

Use a squirt of WD40 on your burr when it starts to plug up. A little WD40 will knock off the clogged aluminum quickly.

Standard burrs work well with WD40 and is what I would use. More open flutes on the burr help this clean out but is more aggressive. You will need a really ridged setup, maybe Dremel in a vice and stock in your hand. More open flutes work like mud terrain tires they "clean out" better.

Climb vs conventional cutting. You do not want to travel with the rotation of the bit. keep a light load, If you travel in the direction of the bit it will bite and take off on you!

Do not breath the WD40 mist, smoke or vapors.

Routers are a good option a little more setup making a jig or mounting the router in a vice.

Never use grinding/standing stones on aluminum. The aluminum will fill and clog the pores, expand and blow up the stone in your face. Use stand paper type cartridge or flap disks. If you have to use stone, you can wax the stone preventing some of the aluminum buildup.
 
In that case, go with this style. They do not load:


Available on eBay, Amazon, etc.
Wow those are like the sand tire versions of a burr!
 
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