Don’t want a new truck

[nobody]

No idea how the auto swaybar disconnects work. I'd be looking at what it takes to swap over to a swaybar that you can manually disconnect.

I get a lot of 70's-90's rigs through my shop. Always interesting what parts are available and then wtf is that unobtainium?

His replacement will be an extended travel swaybar, but it’s about $4k to swap over. Even replacing the auto disconnect was less than $1k.

But yes you’re right, it’s mind boggling what is and isn’t available

 

[sndmn11]

I recently added a touchscreen/backup camera to my 2002 Dodge. Feels like a new truck!


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Which one?

 

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

I like getting something new/newer and then running it a long time, rinse and repeat. I replaced my 2007 in 2022 for instance. The old truck didn't fit my needs anymore:
-Rear seat was too small for growing kids
-Couldn't tow my trailer with its shitty 4/5speed transmission
-It was entering the phase of periodic repairs, some of which sucked to do. I don't mind wrenching on my timeline, changing out a water pump in the driveway in the winter sucks for instance...

The new truck addressed all those issues, its way more comfortable, I spec'd it exactly how I wanted. Cameras for hitching up are great. Not gonna lie heated seats are mighty nice in hunting season (old one didn't have them) and running ONX on a 12"(?) center console is sweet. LED headlights work great, etc.

I feel like I hit a sweet spot on tech not being over the top (IE I HATE vehicles that the climate controls are only available on a touch screen). I only went new at the time (vs 2-4yrs old) because the used market was nuts then and I got it for below invoice by ordering and waiting 9mo for it.

Could I have added some of these things to my old truck? Sure but the bones were still wrong for my changing use case (cab size and ability to tow in the mountains).

Ideally I run this truck for at least a decade or more, then I'll be the "old truck guy"

 

[Bcoonce117]

I have an 09 king ranch f150 that just crossed 101k miles. It’s a clean, one owner, impeccable maintenance history, old man owned specimen that I purchased planning to keep 5-ever. It had the cam phaser issue (5.4) right after I bought it, and it was fixed at 94k miles a month after I purchased it. I love the thing, it’s cushy and comfortable and has plenty of horsepower and torque for me.

I’m planning to replace it next year for 2 reasons:

1. It has a payload of 1050 pounds. The king ranch has lower payload capacity than the other trim levels, but I just didn’t think about it being an issue when I bought it. It’s got a 150 pound hard tonneau cover on it, so between that and my fat butt in the drivers seat, my effective remaining payload capacity is 700 pounds. Once I get gear and a couple coolers and another guy in it, my bed is like half full and I’m at full max payload before hooking onto a trailer. Drives me nuts.

2. It’s a garage kept truck in fantastic shape for its age. It borderline looks showroom ready as far as the fading and such when looking at it in the driveway or parking lot. However, it’s STILL a 16 year old pickup, and I just spend $3k fixing some rust on the roof off the corner of the sunroof. Some of the bed cross members (between the bed and frame) are starting to hard rust and rot. I keep it washed in the winter, but road salt still causes issues. At the rate I drive it (about 4k miles per year), coupled with the rate it’s rusting, it’ll be rotted out before 120k miles.

I’m planning to replace it with an aluminum body, new or low mileage 2.7 ecoboost (1800-ish pound payload capacity and 7500 lb towing). I don’t WANT to, but I can’t stand the thought of driving a rotted out pickup. It’s all about longevity for me, both mechanical and physical. I’m not interested in driving a low mileage rust box, and at the rate I drive, any vehicle will rot before major mechanical issues hit. I realize not everyone cares about overdoing payload or rusty trucks, but I’m pretty anal about stuff (get it from my dad) and take care of stuff for not only my long term use but also to increase resale value when the time comes. My plan is to buy a perfect specimen for my next one, and then keep it long term (10-15+ years).

The key is to get the right vehicle to push that long. Not all vehicles are worth keeping that long, but get the right one and it’s way smarter to keep them long term like you’re talking.

Yeah my payload is also only about 1500lbs which means I have to be careful what I put in my truck if I plan on towing. I have airbags which doesn’t increase payload but it sure makes it feel better when heavy

 

[wyosam]

Which one?

Master Tailgaters camera in the tailgate latch bezel, and a cheap head unit from Amazon that seems to do what I need it to do.


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[TaperPin]

I’m usually a fan of simply keeping up with maintenance, minor and major, if the function of the vehicle is still good, but I’m also not paying a mechanic. It comes down to average cost per mile and the cost per mile of a new vehicle consists of less gas, more insurance and very little maintenance. My 1985 F250 work truck is at barely 150k and if something is worn out I simply replace it before it breaks. If the bumper looks rusty replace it. Dented fender, replace. Dull paint, repaint. Cracked windshield, replace. Engine has been rebuilt, transfer case is new. Axles have been swapped with 2006 F350 with coil springs, with new ball joints, wheel bearings, brakes. Worn out seats, get a pair of buckets out of a 1994 Camaro (love the lumbar support). Windows won’t roll up. . . just kidding, hand cranks never die. Gas alone is rough at $.40/mile, but parts are cheap so all together it’s not a lot different from a new vehicle. Pairing a truck with high cost per mile with a small car with low cost per mile helps reduce your average per mile cost. I’m aging out of wanting to work on old trucks anymore, but I don’t regret driving an old truck all this time. The new car smell of the new 4 runner is kind of nice though.

 

[nobody]

Yeah my payload is also only about 1500lbs which means I have to be careful what I put in my truck if I plan on towing. I have airbags which doesn’t increase payload but it sure makes it feel better when heavy

Man if my payload was 1500 lbs I would consider keeping it longer . And I hear you on the airbags. I’ve considered it, but it doesn’t help with stability and cooling capacity and braking. Half tons have come a long ways since 2009, kinda sad haha.

Mine is a super crew with the longer (6.5 foot) bed, which I think hurts the payload too since the pickup itself weighs more. My brother has the same truck (same year and powertrain) in a lariat package, super crew cab short (5.5 foot) bed, and his payload is 1300 lbs. if yours is 1500 I would bet you’ve got the super cab short bed?

 

[nobody]

Yeah my payload is also only about 1500lbs which means I have to be careful what I put in my truck if I plan on towing. I have airbags which doesn’t increase payload but it sure makes it feel better when heavy

Man if my payload was 1500 lbs I would consider keeping it longer . And I hear you on the airbags. I’ve considered it, but it doesn’t help with stability and cooling capacity and braking. Half tons have come a long ways since 2009, kinda sad haha.

Mine is a super crew with the longer (6.5 foot) bed, which I think hurts the payload too since the pickup itself weighs more. My brother has the same truck (same year and powertrain) in a lariat package, super crew cab short (5.5 foot) bed, and his payload is 1300 lbs. if yours is 1500 I would bet you’ve got the super cab short bed?

 

[Bcoonce117]

Man if my payload was 1500 lbs I would consider keeping it longer . And I hear you on the airbags. I’ve considered it, but it doesn’t help with stability and cooling capacity and braking. Half tons have come a long ways since 2009, kinda sad haha.

Mine is a super crew with the longer (6.5 foot) bed, which I think hurts the payload too since the pickup itself weighs more. My brother has the same truck (same year and powertrain) in a lariat package, super crew cab short (5.5 foot) bed, and his payload is 1300 lbs. if yours is 1500 I would bet you’ve got the super cab short bed?

Yeah mine is super crew 5.5 foot bed. Airbags are a game changer. Payload is 1460. Idk why it just is lol

 

[IAm_Not_Lost]

Really going to depend on what yall are calling old trucks. Theres a lot of obsolete parts that a guy cant just buy anymore though.

I’m not calling anything an old truck. I’m referencing the OP’s 2010 truck that has plenty of spare parts available.

 

[Mike D Texas]

It makes sense, if you can do the work yourself. Alotta folks out there dont even know which end of the crescent wrench to use as a hammer though.

Comes a point though where you have a monthly payment on the truck, be it going towards a new rig or towards parts/labor

That’s BS. My son still drives my 2004 Z71 with 440,000 miles on the original motor. The last major repair was over 3 years and almost 100k miles ago. Other than that he just replaces wearable parts just like any other vehicle has.

With the average new truck costing $70k, that’s a $1k+ per month vehicle payment; and that is just retarded.

Yeah he will at some point have to make a decision whether to put in a new motor or cut it loose and buy something newer. But it doesn’t have to be brand new.

 

[COJoe]

My 2007 4runner has 257,000 now but still runs very well. I tried to sell it recently but only got real low offers which tells me that what's it's worth to others. So I will keep it now and run it for a year or more and hope the catalytic converters don't need replacing at about $2700. If they do, I'll replace them and run it longer to get more use out of it. I would like to get a newer one though sometime. I just don't have the free time to work on vehicles much any more. My 09 Sierra only has 107,000 so I should be good for quite some time with that truck.

 

[Gseith]

It depends where you live. Here in the northeast it would be rusted enough that its not worth saving.

I just had to scrap my 2004 trailblazer that I probably kept fixing for to long. When I would jack it up the frame was so rusty I could see it bend. It was bad.
I finally got a new truck a couple years ago knowing the trailblazer would die. Whenever I would work on the old one the pile of rust I would sweep up was ridiculous.
I also had to have an extra car around because fixing the old trailblazer was constant. There was always an old rusty fitting breaking somewhere, and needing to get to work is important.
My new truck I started treating with fluid film to hopefully keep the rust away.

 

[207North]

I just had to scrap my 2004 trailblazer that I probably kept fixing for to long. When I would jack it up the frame was so rusty I could see it bend. It was bad.
I finally got a new truck a couple years ago knowing the trailblazer would die. Whenever I would work on the old one the pile of rust I would sweep up was ridiculous.
I also had to have an extra car around because fixing the old trailblazer was constant. There was always an old rusty fitting breaking somewhere, and needing to get to work is important.
My new truck I started treating with fluid film to hopefully keep the rust away.

Fluid film helps. When I was commuting 100 miles a day, it did not take long for salt and sand to sand blast most of the fluid film off. Without really putting some effort in, it can be a losing battle.

For the occasional trip around town Fluid film should last quite a while.

 

[kcm2]

I have two 4x4 vehicles. One is a 99 Grand Cherokee with Quadra-Drive, 134k on it. I bought it in 2011 with 48k on it. Never let me down. It's my serious off-road hunting rig. The other is a 2001 Suburban with 99k on it that I inherited about 2 years ago. Both have taken several 2000 mile round trips without any concerns. The Suburban has the 5.3 Vortec that has a good reputation for durability. The Jeep has a 4.7 liter V-8 that runs quite well. Oh, any my car is a 2003 LS430 Lexus with 213k on it, I bought 7 years ago. New trucks are too expensive.

 

[Steve300xcw]

That’s BS.

-At a certain point that truck will nickel and dime you to the point that it makes sense to replace it with a fresh rig.

-Shops charging $150-$200hr isnt a rare thing these days. If you cant do the work yourself, Keeping a wore out rig on the road WILL get spendy. Can break the $1k mark on a repair bill without trying all that hard.

What part of what I said is BS?

 

[tony]

I buy every few years because I can afford it.
My last F150, 2013, I was chasing small leaks every day. Started to have some rust popping up in the obvious areas, (can corners).

I trade while they are still worth something, and I pay off what I buy. Just paid my '21 ranger off, 82k miles.
Starting to look now.

 

[Mike D Texas]

-At a certain point that truck will nickel and dime you to the point that it makes sense to replace it with a fresh rig.

-Shops charging $150-$200hr isnt a rare thing these days. If you cant do the work yourself, Keeping a wore out rig on the road WILL get spendy. Can break the $1k mark on a repair bill without trying all that hard.

What part of what I said is BS?

No one is paying $1k+ a month in repairs to keep a vehicle running/repaired.


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[Chris in TN]

No one is paying $1k+ a month in repairs to keep a vehicle running/repaired.


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I have a 2001 chevy 5.3 z71. I've had it for 22 years. You could say I was attached to it.

455k miles.

It's been in the shop for months now because mechanics are slammed busy nowadays. It isn't costing $1k/month but it isn't of much use to me sitting at the shop waiting on parts, and I have no real way to speed the mechanic up; I am more or less at his mercy.