cuerro viejo
WKR
- Joined
- Apr 1, 2013
- Messages
- 2,889
two knives, two spoons
two knives, two spoons
Yelp, I use the double ended ones. Fork and spoon. I buy a pack of them and stash them in packs, truck etc. I’m always loosing themand one fork.
Almost like a "spork".Yelp, I use the double ended ones. Fork and spoon. I buy a pack of them and stash them in packs, truck etc. I’m always loosing them
The replaceable blade knives are designed for temporary use because of their Rc ( Rokwell hardness) that’s the reason they come with replaceable blades.I only carry my Outdoor Edge Lite, which I'm surprised is not more popular looking at previous posts in this thread.
The Outdoor Edge has enough umph to do what you need to do with an elk, joints and getting the head off the spine, never broke a blade (have broken Havalons before), small weight penalty to the Havalon. Easier to change blades, too.
The replaceable blade knives are designed for temporary use because of their Rc ( Rokwell hardness) that’s the reason they come with replaceable blades.
Rokwell Hardness is a measure of a steel's resistance to deformation. Hardness in knife steels is most commonly measured using the Rockwell C test. Hardened knife steels are generally about 58/62 HRC (hardness Rockwell C), depending on the grade. Most are typically about 58/60 HRC, although some are occasionally used up to about 62 HRC.
The above mentioned knives have an Rc of 54-55 range, which is very soft. This means there is no edge retention with continued use because the blade isn’t hard enough and quickly dulls compared to a knife with a Rc of 58. Night and day difference in performance.
Bladesmiths like myself wouldn’t consider using this steel in any knife. It’s all about the characteristics of the steel, design,Rc hardness, grind type and edge geometry that make different knives perform better than others. Replaceable blade style knives are just that, they serve a temporary purpose then are replaced. Hope this bit of science helps.
I’ll take a fixed blade knife with/without a sharpener any day over those style knives not only from a durability perspective, but overall use in the field if needed. For me it’s all about performance.
I enjoy testing different knives, so yes I have. That’s why I don’t carry one on any of my hunts. It’s personal preference. The knife I took with me last season broke down my bull and still remained very sharp, but I built it. The term expensive is relative to your budget and the importance you place on that tool. There are good fixed blade knives under $150. You just have to do your research.Have you tried one? I can make it through an elk by myself with 2 blades no problem, and the change from one blade to another is a lot faster and easier than sharpening. I'll admit I've never tried a kickass knife, but from my perspective they're expensive (I got the scrilla, I just know I'll hate myself when I lose one) and they're heavy (comparatively), and it does require some skill to keep them in their best condition. I do admire you guys will cool knives, just rather focus on other things.
Good steels. I use those plus CPM154, 440c and AEB-L for stainless. High carbon steels 1084, 5160 and 8670.FWIW, I have not had to touch up a knife on hunts made from S30V, S90v, CPM S3v, BG42, and a couple other super steels.
I now leave my touch up stuff at camp...and just use it for BH's.
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Bob is known for his hollow grinds. He has helped many of us.I use a replaceable blade Outdoor Edge cutting net wrap off round bales some in the winter. A lot of ranchers close to me have started doing so. We keep a ceramic steel or pull through carbide sharpener in the truck and touch them up every day or two. Saves a lot on blades, and we aren’t ruining a good knife on a pull through sharpener. The softer steel cuts well because the edge is so thin, and sharpens easy. They work great for slicing, I just like a stronger knife in the field. I do like the Outdoor Edge for cleaning skulls, scraping the edge against bone a lot. It’s easy to fix the edge or replace the blade.
My back won’t take being stooped over cutting on an animal for more than 15 minutes or so without a break. I have to stand up for a few seconds. While I rest I touch up my knife on a ceramic steel. I have an old Cabelas one that used to have a wooden handle. In AK on my moose hunt the glue holding the handle gave up so now it’s just a 6” 1.2oz ceramic rod. It works great at a minimal weight.
With that rod I don’t need a super steel in my knife. I still like a great steel but want toughness too. Especially if only carrying one knife I want a tough one. High carbon O1 or 1095 steel works well for how I use it. My favorite is 3V, its more rust resistant and even tougher so the blade can be thinner. My Dozier in D2 is awesome on game. It takes and holds a great toothy edge, and the hollow grind slices great. Its not as tough as some, so it would not be my choice carrying only one knife far from civilization.
If I found someone to make a copy of my Dozier Pro Guide in 3V with a high saber grind instead of the hollow grind I’d have my perfect “only carry one” field knife.
Bob is known for his hollow grinds. He has helped many of us.