DIY Tikka Barrel Swap, By Dioni Amuchastegui

[Dunky]

Yeah, putting the cheap part on the expensive part is..expensive.


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For sure. Luckily it was just a tiny scuff on the bottom that I won’t see. But, a good reminder to get the right tool for the job.

 

[WyldGoose]

Thanks for all the tips in this thread, just got mine apart easy. Got it all clamped down, whacked the Wheeler wrench a couple times with a 4 lb sledge to shock it, then slipped the handle from my Hi-Lift jack over the Wheeler and barely put any weight on it and it loosened right up.

 

[HighCascadeHunter]

Thanks for this thread and the article write up, was a big help.
Working on my first tikka project, a 7mm rem mag converted to .223.
Used the wheeler barrel vice secured in a hydraulic press. OMR action wrench with a 3/4 socket on torque wrench. Broke free at about 120ftpounds. Cleaned it all up, put new anti seize compound on the McGowen 223 barrel and threaded back on. Torqued to 100ftpounds. Checked with go and field gauges, all good.
Excited for the rest of my parts to come in and finish up the build.

 

[Unckebob]

Here is my list:

Wheeler Action Wrench = $79 or Chi-Com version = $40
Viper Barrel vise = $70 or SAC Bravo vise = $275
Drywall tape = $5
Headspace gauge rental = $30 (including shipping both ways) If you buy, just buy the go gauge and use the tape or a shim to get "no-go".

That is the minimum you will need if you don't mind not accurately torquing your new barrel back on. You may need to spend a few $ more to replace the bolts on the action wrench with longer ones in order to flip the head around and still get good thread engagement.

Extras that make the job easier and more precise (in my opinion)

Internal action wrench from Bugholes = $90 from E-bay = $75, SAC modular = $125
Torque Wrench from Amazon = $40 Craftsman = $90

Most chain auto parts stores will let customers borrow tools including big torque wrenches for free.

 

[wind gypsy]

Any hot tips on not marring finish with the PMA gen 2 vice? I think its basically the same as the viper.

Just pulled my first blued barrel and torqued a replacement blued barrel on. Removal was just with al foil, replacement was wrapped with sheetrock tape. I've also marred with sheetrocktape and tp rolls.. Maybe just go on not caring if a barrel is marred is the way?

Second question - do you guys remove the factory gunk on the threads before putting a tube on a different action and if so, what do you use?

 

[WyldGoose]

My barrel was stainless, not blued, but I just wrapped mine twice with some printer paper before setting into the PMA gen 2 and it worked perfect.

 

[wind gypsy]

Yes, my bead blasted or polished stainless ones are much less susceptible to marring than the factory blued ones.

 

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

Yes, my bead blasted or polished stainless ones are much less susceptible to marring than the factory blued ones.

I haven't pulled a blued one but the SAC vice and bushing grip the barrel really well once you torque it down solidly (nothing is bending and it grips more surface). Just depends how much you care about the blued aspect vs vice cost.

 

[wind gypsy]

I haven't pulled a blued one but the SAC vice and bushing grip the barrel really well once you torque it down solidly (nothing is bending and it grips more surface). Just depends how much you care about the blued aspect vs vice cost.

I do not care enough at this point! Would have got a bravo vice if it were in stock when I was buying though.

 

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

I do not care enough at this point! Would have got a bravo vice if it were in stock when I was buying though.

Yeah it was onsale when I got it so the price premium over the others wasn't too steep.

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

Any hot tips on not marring finish with the PMA gen 2 vice? I think its basically the same as the viper.

Just pulled my first blued barrel and torqued a replacement blued barrel on. Removal was just with al foil, replacement was wrapped with sheetrock tape. I've also marred with sheetrocktape and tp rolls.. Maybe just go on not caring if a barrel is marred is the way?

Second question - do you guys remove the factory gunk on the threads before putting a tube on a different action and if so, what do you use?

Try wrapping in butcher paper and tape. I have given up on really caring a ton if there is slight marring on the blued barrels.

Yes remove factory anti-seize for me but not required I suppose, never done one without cleaning it off and re-applying... You can either heat it and wipe clean with a chlorinated brake cleaner soaked rag, or not heat it and let the brake cleaner sit and soak for 10 min or so and then wipe clean. Wire brush or steel wool works good to get into the threads.

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

Loctite LB 771 and torqued to 110-120 ft lbs for re-install is what I use. The you tap on it and say "that ain't going nowhere."

 

[HandgunHTR]

The you tap on it and say "that ain't going nowhere."

I thought that was just for ratchet straps?

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

I thought that was just for ratchet straps?

 

[TX_Diver]

Try wrapping in butcher paper and tape. I have given up on really caring a ton if there is slight marring on the blued barrels.

Yes remove factory anti-seize for me but not required I suppose, never done one without cleaning it off and re-applying... You can either heat it and wipe clean with a chlorinated brake cleaner soaked rag, or not heat it and let the brake cleaner sit and soak for 10 min or so and then wipe clean. Wire brush or steel wool works good to get into the threads.

You probably know, but for others, be careful not to get stuff too hot before you hit it with the brake cleaner.

There is some sort of reaction when you mix brake clean and heat that creates an extremely toxic gas.

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

You probably know, but for others, be careful not to get stuff too hot before you hit it with the brake cleaner.

There is some sort of reaction when you mix brake clean and heat that creates an extremely toxic gas.

That's why when heating you apply the cleaner to a rag do not spray direct. A little goes a long way.

 

[NSI]

Yet another reason to use non-chlorinated brake cleaner.

-J

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

Yet another reason to use non-chlorinated brake cleaner.

-J

For general gun chamber/throat cleaning yes, but to remove factory anti-seize, no.

 

[NSI]

For general gun chamber/throat cleaning yes, but to remove factory anti-seize, no.

Good to know. I've been using acetone on a rag, then neutralizing with IPA before applying my own (loctite 51605).

-J

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

Good to know. I've been using acetone on a rag, then neutralizing with IPA before applying my own (loctite 51605).

-J

As long as it's working keep on rolling!