DIY Tanning

[NCnative]

Does anyone do their own tanning? How do you handle the hides? Planning on trying to do a whitetail this year. I will be bow hunting. How should I repair entry and exit?

 

[Northpark]

I’ve done quite a few myself and just recently started attempting shoulder mounts. You can you tube McKenzie hide tanning and there is a series of videos on the subject. It’s really pretty easy with a few tools and the right chemicals.

Basic steps are

1. Keep the hide clean while field dressing and skinning. During skinning follow the hairlines for the best look.
2. Fleshing. A nice sharp knife works but if you’re gonna get serious a fleshing machine is better for time saving. This is where you split the nose eyelids and ears if your doing the head too.
3. Salt for 24 hours
4. Into the pickling/ degreasing solution for at least 3 days on a deer hide
5. Dry the hide gently with a towel and apply the tanning solution for 12-24 hours
6. Rinse well in clean water and let dry stretching the hide as it dries for softness.

 

[NCnative]

I’ve done quite a few myself and just recently started attempting shoulder mounts. You can you tube McKenzie hide tanning and there is a series of videos on the subject. It’s really pretty easy with a few tools and the right chemicals.

Basic steps are

1. Keep the hide clean while field dressing and skinning. During skinning follow the hairlines for the best look.
2. Fleshing. A nice sharp knife works but if you’re gonna get serious a fleshing machine is better for time saving. This is where you split the nose eyelids and ears if your doing the head too.
3. Salt for 24 hours
4. Into the pickling/ degreasing solution for at least 3 days on a deer hide
5. Dry the hide gently with a towel and apply the tanning solution for 12-24 hours
6. Rinse well in clean water and let dry stretching the hide as it dries for softness.

Awesome thanks for the tips!

 

[Haggin]

My daughter did her 2019 whitetail doe for a 4H project. @Northpark has the same process we used, but she didn't turn the eyes, lips, nose, ears. Spend time fleshing, then spend some more. She tried the pressure washer method, and while it worked, it was a giant mess. We'll use a fleshing knife and board the next time. Just work with a cold hide and it would flesh decent enough (better with a machine).

She tanned hers with the cheap solution from Cabelas/BP/Scheels in the orange bottle (probably liquid cancer), it worked well enough and we had no hair slippage. Hang to dry and stretch as you can. She ended up sanding the flesh side with a orbital and some heavy grit paper to make it soft.

 

[NCnative]

So stretch as you go? No need for a frame or anything like that?

 

[Northpark]

So stretch as you go? No need for a frame or anything like that?

Yup as you go. No need for a frame. I hung mine on the backyard garden fence and just went out and pulled it and stretched it every half hour or so until it dried. Good thing to do on a Saturday morning when you’ve got 4-5 hours.

 

[NCnative]

What about keeping the hide for a few months till I can devote the time to it? Can I freeze before fleshing? Does that get me into a world of problems?

 

[Haggin]

What about keeping the hide for a few months till I can devote the time to it? Can I freeze before fleshing? Does that get me into a world of problems?

Should be OK to freeze first, my kiddo did, and was fine, just watch it as it thaws. Ours was rolled up and we unrolled as it thawed to not let it get too warm. We also did our in the early spring, so the days weren't too warm either.

 

[Northpark]

Freezing in a good air tight trash bag for a few months isn’t a big deal.

 

[RedTimber]

What about keeping the hide for a few months till I can devote the time to it? Can I freeze before fleshing? Does that get me into a world of problems?

Also fine to let sit out to start the rot process on fat and meat. Have gone up to 36 hours in 40-50° temp. Makes fleshing easier for both knife cuts and power washer. No hair slippage if properly fleshed afterwards. Have done this on multiple deer.

 

[Ike Carlson]

The heayer went out on our dryer this year, so I saved it to cool tumble tanned hides while they dry. Should make for less sore arms.

 

[RossWard]

I didn’t repair the entry exit. Was a perfect x from my 4 blades… kind of liked it.


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[mapticon]

I'd salt it till you're ready to work on it further. I had a hide in the freezer I was working on, the freezer broke, and my hide was ruined. Salting is easy and will help you sleep better.

This guy is really helpful:

 

[long hunter]

Try brain tanning lots of info on the web. A bit labor intensive but it is worth it.

 

[Finch]

@NCnative Did you tan a hide yet? I'm hoping to get one more deer before the end of season and hope to attempt tanning it.

I'm going to try the pressure washer method. Can't be any messier than me blowing mashed up brain matter all over me while pressure washing my buck skull for a euro mount.

 

[RedTimber]

@NCnative Did you tan a hide yet? I'm hoping to get one more deer before the end of season and hope to attempt tanning it.

I'm going to try the pressure washer method. Can't be any messier than me blowing mashed up brain matter all over me while pressure washing my buck skull for a euro mount.

Pressure washer works the best gor getting it clean. Did a Sika deer earlier this season and turned out good. You have to make sure you get the meat, fat, and connective tissue off the hide. When you do it you will see almost translucent tissue still attached and you need to spray it at an angle to get it to come off. You'll see what I'm talking about once you begin doing it. I use a nozzle 10-15° 1-2 inches from hide. You won't poke a hole in a deer hide so don't be afraid to even touch the nozzle to the hide. After that string it to dry and use borax and alum mixed in water to the consistency of mashed potatoes. Apply liberally on the hide and let it dry. Takes about 7-10 days to dry completely and then sand it to your desired pliability.

 

[RedTimber]

This one I cut to a more symmetrical shape per the clients request, but you can also leave it in the more "natural" or "raw" shape that is formed when it is strung up and dried.The truck is a SuperCrew cab for reference.

 

[Finch]

Pressure washer works the best gor getting it clean. Did a Sika deer earlier this season and turned out good. You have to make sure you get the meat, fat, and connective tissue off the hide. When you do it you will see almost translucent tissue still attached and you need to spray it at an angle to get it to come off. You'll see what I'm talking about once you begin doing it. I use a nozzle 10-15° 1-2 inches from hide. You won't poke a hole in a deer hide so don't be afraid to even touch the nozzle to the hide. After that string it to dry and use borax and alum mixed in water to the consistency of mashed potatoes. Apply liberally on the hide and let it dry. Takes about 7-10 days to dry completely and then sand it to your desired pliability.

Thanks for the tips. Hide looks awesome too!

So you're not salting the hide after fleshing it? Haven't heard of the borax and alum either. I'm new to this though. Thoughts on the orange bottle stuff for tanning hides?

 

[RedTimber]

Thanks for the tips. Hide looks awesome too!

So you're not salting the hide after fleshing it? Haven't heard of the borax and alum either. I'm new to this though. Thoughts on the orange bottle stuff for tanning hides?

Salting the hide is just to pull oils out of skin and kill any bacteria. I freeze mine for 1-2 weeks before fleshing which kills bacteria and then leave out overnight to thaw and begin rotting process on meat and next morning flesh immediately. Borax is better@ absorbing the oils than salt is. I use alum instead of salt as the preserving agent for the same reason. Salt is cheaper but alum is more effective. You won't notice as much of a difference between salt and borax until you get to more oily animals like raccoons and possum. Then borax is miles ahead of salt in every regard.

I have tanned deer, raccoons, fox, coyotes, squirrel, possum, beavers, and rabbits.
I have tried commercial solutions, orange bottle, clear and brown solutions from van dykes, wood alcohols, and several other homemade solutions. I have had the best results from the "dry" tan process that i have posted above. All the others, especially the "wet" tan solutions rely on you to be meticulous about every detail and also require more of your time, which you hopefully don't have because the hunting is good through season.

 

[RedTimber]

Salting the hide is just to pull oils out of skin and kill any bacteria. I freeze mine for 1-2 weeks before fleshing which kills bacteria and then leave out overnight to thaw and begin rotting process on meat and next morning flesh immediately. Borax is better@ absorbing the oils than salt is. I use alum instead of salt as the preserving agent for the same reason. Salt is cheaper but alum is more effective. You won't notice as much of a difference between salt and borax until you get to more oily animals like raccoons and possum. Then borax is miles ahead of salt in every regard.

I have tanned deer, raccoons, fox, coyotes, squirrel, possum, beavers, and rabbits.
I have tried commercial solutions, orange bottle, clear and brown solutions from van dykes, wood alcohols, and several other homemade solutions. I have had the best results from the "dry" tan process that i have posted above. All the others, especially the "wet" tan solutions rely on you to be meticulous about every detail and also require more of your time, which you hopefully don't have because the hunting is good through season.

You may see alum as a pickling agent online. I have linked the stuff that i have gotten the best results from below. About 12$ for a 1.5 lb bag and it will generally take you about 75-85% of a bag for a deer hide. Make sure to use it liberally and coat all exposed leather.

Anthony's Premium Alum Powder, 1.5 lb, Batch Tested & Verified Gluten Free, Granulated Pickle Powder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M8DLW9...abc_4Y0WRJMNDZN53S1GGN1A?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1