DIY pillar bedding EH1

[mattwill00]

So

I just got my EH1 in the mail after 5 months and I’m ready to screw it up. I would love to pillar bed this without having to go to a gunsmith and pay/wait etc. I’m sure some of you will cringe at this idea but I’m pretty handy and I’m ready to tackle this myself.

Any opinions on compounds or any good reads I should dive in to? For the pillars, can I score them and cut then to size with a cutting wheel? How about dremeling them to fit the action (kelbly Atlas tactical)? I assume do the action, lug and pillars all at the same time? Any other major do’s or dont’s that you all learned the hard way?

And yes I’ve searched and read the previous threads on this as well. Figured I’d start a thread for some fresh info and maybe document my struggles.

 

[WeiserBucks]

I've done a bunch myself, I prefer the ProBed 2000 kit from Score High gunsmithing and the aerosol release agent that LRI sells. There's a million different opinions about how to do it, just make triple sure you don't glue the action into the stock and make sure the action screws don't ever come into contact with the I.D. of the pillars.

Test fit everything about 38 times before you commit to the epoxy and wait the full specified curing time before disassembly. High quality masking tape is your friend to keep epoxy from contacting anything it shouldn't. There's a ton of videos out there regarding bedding, watch em all and retain the info that is logical and don't fall for any voodoo bullshit that some people claim.

 

[mattwill00]

Im trying to wade through the bs out there and kind of hitting a wall. Do you pillar bed it first leaving a small gap, then glass bed the action? Or all at the same time? Thank you btw I’m excited to struggle through this process.

 

[mattwill00]

On second thought, I think I’m going to go with the McMillan technique and go shorter on the pillars, and bed the stock and pillars at the same time. Anyone use this technique?

 

[WeiserBucks]

Take this with a grain of salt I'm not a professional. I like to verify that everything fits right before I do anything, is the barrel centered in the barrel channel ect. Then I'll use studs (wrapped in masking tape to to center them in the ID of the pillar) to attach the pillars to the action and then install/epoxy the pillars into the stock. Once they're cured, verify that everything still fits and functions properly. At this point I'll take a Dremel or similar tool and remove stock material in the inlet to whatever thickness I feel I need for proper epoxy strength, you don't need a ton.

I do it this way because it's simple, idiot proof and the installed pillars set the height/alignment moving forward. Make sure to use the tape on the studs when you do the final bedding to maintain the clearance in the ID of the pillars. I'm not an expert and there's certainly other ways to do it successfully, but it works for me and keeps it simple in my simple mind.

Test fit, test fit and test fit 10 more times, once you start slinging epoxy there's no turning back. Mask off anything and everything you don't want epoxy to get on, it'll be everywhere. Don't be shy about using release agent on the action.

 

[Marble]

On second thought, I think I’m going to go with the McMillan technique and go shorter on the pillars, and bed the stock and pillars at the same time. Anyone use this technique?

When I did mine, I bought aluminum pillars and customized them to fit. Drilled a hole slightly larger than pillar. I used the Drexel and made the pillar match contour of the gun. I taped the bottom of the stock front and back and installed the trigger guard and mag bottom. I dremeled the entire stock where the action meets the stock and poured glass from an acraglass kit right into the stock.

IMO, the result was perfect. I frequently shoot 1/2 moa groups with a stock gun and the ammo I make for it.

I've also done without pillars probably a dozen times. I just got another box of acraglass and have 3 to 4 rifles to do.



Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

 

[Pickettpuncher]

Cleanup is key. And it begins as soon as you squish out the excess bedding. Rarely anymore do I have to do anything with the bedding once it’s setup. Personally, devcon 10110 or jb weld original works good. Use a good release agent.

 

[hicountry1]

I use Devcon plastic steel. Most Ace hw stores, tractor supply stores carry it. Under $10 and one tube does one stock. I

Johnsons paste wax as a release agent.

I paint the wax on with a small paint brush, then buff surface smooth with a cotton cleaning patch.

Front and sides of the recoil lug get extra wax, with no buffing. I build it up, and that gives a little space to make pulling the rifle apart easier

Bedded dozens of rifles, many brands of actions, never a problem.

I only bed couple inches on the bbl,recoil lug area, to magazine opening, and the tang, if the tang needs it.

I also do it in two steps...lug area first, the tang

I use index card shims to center the bbl in the bbl channel

Headless guard screws installed on the action, that I build up with tape so that it centers in the guard screw hole.

Fit check multiple times, before you apply release agent. Don't want it on the stock

When I'm done, front and rear guard screws are centered in the stock holes, and not touching.

Lug bedding does what it's supposed to do. Don't want the guard screws stopping the recoil, only pulling the action into the bedding.

Take your time......remember, release agent last thing you do, prior to placing the bbl action into the epoxy. Don't want release agent on the stock

 

[wapitibob]

I bed the pillars to sit about .005 above the inlet. I don't want the action to touch anything but the pillars and use the bedding to just fill the space.

 

[762 ULTRAMAGA]

So

I just got my EH1 in the mail after 5 months and I’m ready to screw it up. I would love to pillar bed this without having to go to a gunsmith and pay/wait etc. I’m sure some of you will cringe at this idea but I’m pretty handy and I’m ready to tackle this myself.

Any opinions on compounds or any good reads I should dive in to? For the pillars, can I score them and cut then to size with a cutting wheel? How about dremeling them to fit the action (kelbly Atlas tactical)? I assume do the action, lug and pillars all at the same time? Any other major do’s or dont’s that you all learned the hard way?

And yes I’ve searched and read the previous threads on this as well. Figured I’d start a thread for some fresh info and maybe document my struggles.

Go for it, bedding is pretty straight forward.
I've done an EH1 and you don't need to dremel away any material to bed the action or pillars.

Definitely do the pillars first
I insert them with about a fingernails thickness protruding into the action and bottom metal areas, mark them a little long, cut and reinsert.
If they're long it's easy to put them in a vice and bring them down a little with a flat file.
Once the pillar length is correct set them with epoxy.

When it comes to bedding you only need to put a little compound around the tang/ rear action screw, and approx 1" in front of the recoil lug and back to where the mag cut out begins just behind the front action screw.
Also you'll want to bed the bottom metal, so the compound is flush with the pillars.

Make sure to put a piece of electrical tape on the bottom, and front of the recoil lug.
You don't want those areas of the lug to contact the bedding, it also allows you to remove the barrel easier.

I also like the probed 2000 compound, paint all metal surfaces with the release agent, and use modeling clay to protect recessed areas.
I like to use a ribbon of clay accros the barrel channel at the point where the bedding starts 1" in front of the lug, it keeps the compound from spreading forward.

Good luck

 

[mattwill00]

Thanks for all the reply’s everyone! I think I have a technique kinda of figured out from blending everyone’s together.

Take some material out of the stock inlet with dremel (already down prior to reading your comment 762gunner)

I also needed to take material out of the barrel channel. Not sure if this is common with a manners stock but the channel was not cut right for the fattest part of the barrel where it meets the action. Oh well. Also, put a few wraps of tape around the midsection of the barrel to hold the action centered.

Size down the pillars a bit so there is approx .03 clearance between action and pillars when installed. (Already done)

Tape & apply release agent. Fill in any holes with clay. Install 2 sections of properly sized all thread into the action screw holes. Tape screws to keep ID of pillars.

Apply compound to the top inlet of stock and pillar holes. Put small amount on pillars and insert from the bottom of the action. Insert bottom metal? Should I put arcaglas between the bottom metal and pillars to bed the entire gun in one go?

Insert action into stock with screws going through the pillars. I imagine because the pillars are undersized and came in from the bottom that this will push bedding material into the ID of the pillars and possibly out the bottom metal. Is that ok?

Finally, clamp rifle lightly with large woodworking clamps and begin cleanup.

That’s the working plan thus far. Let me know what you all think!

 

[sndmn11]

Why wouldn't you just use one of Score Hi's kits and instructions? https://scorehi.com/store/#!/Pillar-Bedding-Kits/c/14711728

 

[mattwill00]

Eh. Didn’t really know they existed. Plus ive already got pillar etc. Really just had to buy some arcaglas and all thread section. Not to mention I feel like people on this forum have a ton of good relevant experience and tend to share it pretty openly.

 

[WeiserBucks]

Acraglas isn't the end of the world, but I'd strongly suggest the probed kit from score hi or devcon.

 

[mattwill00]

Any specific type of Devcon I should be looking for?

 

[wapitibob]

devcon steel putty 10110
arcaglas is softer than devcon
jb weld is a little thin and will run

don't tape the sides of the lug, the tight sides will keep the action from rotating slightly in the stock when you shoot

Ernie the gunsmith dot com has washers for pillar bedding. They sit on top of the pillars and let you fine tune action clearance

 

[BDWMT]

I’m prefer to glue the pillars into the stock followed by bedding the action into the stock and onto the pillars. The pillars won’t be perfectly matched to your action without. You should be able to see most of the top of your pillars when you are done. You want metal to metal contact with the low spots skim bedded. I think this is also easier than all of it in one big step. I also use Devcon steel putty. Lots of good ideas and techniques shared here.

 

[hicountry1]

I like devcon plastic steel. Tractor supply $5

One pkg will do one rifle +. Have bedded a couple dozen rifles with it.

Also, it's always fresh. If you buy it in bulk, it has a shelf life. Learned that the hard way.

Also JB Weld has a marine tex like epoxy, a little stiffer....

Pics are from when I bedded my Dakota medel 76, in 7mm dakota, into an mpi stock

 

[mattwill00]

Well I had some free time this last week and went ahead and tackled it. Definitely not the cleanest looking bed job but it seems very functional. I will not be using action screws to bed in the future though. Pushed some epoxy up into the chamber area before the barrel and had a bit of a panic moment. Luckily I was able to get it all out and the release agent worked well. Popped the barrel off just to make sure and everything is gravy. Going to use all thread posts next time for sure…

 

[packer58]

You could have done a hell of a lot worse for your first attempt at bedding an action.