diving in head first - critique me

[OSU Fisher]

well im finally going to start loading for myself. Its something ive been needing to get into for along time. not only relying on others gets expensive but i never seem to have ammo when i need it. i have what i consider nice rifles and shoot a lot so i think it will be well worth it. for years i have been watching, reading and talking and feel like i kind of have an understanding of the general procedure and what i want to do. Over the last couple days i have made a bunch of orders and spent $. now i didnt get all the best like i wanted ( v3, amp, henderson, 419 press, etc) but i do feel like i should be able to load well with what i have coming and enjoy the process. down the road i figure i can always upgrade if i feel the need. heres a list of what i have coming and my ideas for the process i have in my mind. let me here your advice, input, critiques. im all ears!

2 redding t7 presses (1 has been used a fair amount and was a descent price) older setup as strictly decapping/pulling- new FL size, mandrel, seat
rcbs chargemaster lite
bench source annealer
lyman electric brass trimmer
rcbs brass boss station
rcbs bench mount auto primer
frankford wet tumbler
lyman case dryer
rcbs vibratory polisher (corn media)
all redding type s full length and micro seater for every cart (300wm, 6.5 prc, 6 creed, 300wsm, and more...)
2- mighty armory decapping dies (1 small 1 large )
21st century expander mandrel window die and 2 mandrels per cartridge- with springback get between 1.5-2 thousand neck tension
rcbs collet bullet puller die
short action customs comparator set for shoulder bump cart specific and cbto cal specific
mitutoyo 6" caliper
hornady oal gauge
area 419 master funnel kit
long range accuracy custom machined loading blocks
redding comp shell holder kits along with standard redding shell holders
inline fab - press's, primer, trimmer, etc
hornady 1 shot
imperial case sizing wax
imperial dry neck lube
250 pc pin gauge set

things ive considered getting- micrometer, concentricity gauge, neck sorting tool

i keep finding things i forgot and place small orders... also may have forgotten to list a few things. here is how i envision my process going.. im probably over thinking/doing things but im extremely ocd and cant help it.

1st off i already have some ideas on loads for a lot of my rifles but will play around with others as i learn and will be taking lots of measurements with my new tools

fired brass-

1- decap primer
1.5 - may or may not clean primer pockets and inside necks before step 2
2- wet tumble for 15-20 min to quickly clean but hopefully keep from damaging mouth of case too much
3- dry with dryer or toss in media tumbler to do the same and clean at the same time (mind isnt made up)
4- anneal
5 - spray down with hornady 1 shot, also may try imperial sizing wax
6- full length size with type s bushing bump shoulder and size down to around 3 thousand neck tension ( want to try short action customs bushings)
7- expand neck with 21st century mandrels and die set- ordered mandrels 1 and 1.5 thousands under bullet dia - with spring back i think i should get 1.5-2 thousand neck tension. maybe i should go more? will verify with my pin gauge set
8- corn media tumble to get case lube off
9- case trim to just under saami spec
10- chamfer and debur with rcbs brass station
11- prime
12- lube necks with imperial dy neck lube ( also considered no lube and just clean inside neck with alcohol wipe)
13- charge with powder
14- seat bullets
15- final inspection
16- shoot

lets here your thoughts, again i dont know jack.. these ideas are just what i came up with and am going to give it a try. what have i missed, need, should or shouldnt do. thanks!

 

[nhyrum]

You really are jumping in head first! That all should be just about everything you'll need for a real long time. I think the case dryer and dry tumbler are unnecessary, but I'm sure they'll get used.

I do think a runout indicator would be beneficial, especially with everything you have! I'm sure you have manuals, but actually read them, not just the data section. I learned a lot when I went back and read my Hornady manual

I don't think dry tumbling will remove case lube very well. I wet tumble twice. Once after running through a universal decap die to get the primer pockets, and again after sizing.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

[JRMiller]

Holy moly thats more than i have bought in 15 years of reloading for five calibers!
The only thing missing would be a good mentor, but ya cant buy one of them

 

[nhyrum]

The only thing missing would be a good mentor, but ya cant buy one of them

I'm sure you could! But I'm sure most of them would offer their services for free

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

[OSU Fisher]

You really are jumping in head first! That all should be just about everything you'll need for a real long time. I think the case dryer and dry tumbler are unnecessary, but I'm sure they'll get used.

I do think a runout indicator would be beneficial, especially with everything you have! I'm sure you have manuals, but actually read them, not just the data section. I learned a lot when I went back and read my Hornady manual

I don't think dry tumbling will remove case lube very well. I wet tumble twice. Once after running through a universal decap die to get the primer pockets, and again after sizing.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

The dryer was really an impulse add.. It was on sale for like 45 bucks so said screw it. Keeps me outa the oven and quicker then open air. I picked up the dry tumbler as I wanted to have the old school option and have plans for it in my head... We will see.

I will probably pick up a concentricity gauge but was doing my best to not over think or over complicate it right from the start.

I have both hornady and berger manuals

 

[OSU Fisher]

Holy moly thats more than i have bought in 15 years of reloading for five calibers!
The only thing missing would be a good mentor, but ya cant buy one of them

Haha, well I'm kind of a buy once cry once kinda guy. It was not easy holding back from even better stuff... But I also knew that it was probably not needed at this point or ever. Thankfully Ive got a few people I can reach out to when I need some help.

 

[EE_Reloader]

@OSU Fisher seems like you're off to a good start. In my experience dry tumbling with crushed walnut media will remove lube off cases. Just make sure the media is relatively new or your cases will get very dusty and some of the dust will attach itself to your cases. My reloading process is very similar to yours and I get acceptable results out of my reloads.

 

[EE_Reloader]

Also you dont really need a concentricity gauge. I own a 21st century concentricity gauge and its nice to have at the very beginning of setting things up to get another data point confirming your process but that's about it. I use it every once in a while if I think there is a problem but 99% of the time it's put away on the shelf.

 

[Harvey_NW]

Wet tumblers definitely work and I used to use one and really be about consistently clean shiny brass until I read Wheeler Precisions long range load development write up on another forum not too long ago, they really stress not removing the carbon from inside the neck and cleaning with a nylon brush only on precision loads. The carbon creates a uniform layer and almost acts as a lube and will keep ES/SD numbers lower. I throw my cases in the vibratory tumbler filled with white rice for a few hours now and it's abrasive enough to remove the carbon on the outside of the necks and actually shines the brass up nice, and then for a few minutes to take care of the lube after sizing.

Once I quit wet tumbling the handiest little tool I've come across to clean primer pockets is a uniformer with the cutter head.

 

[bsnedeker]

That will be a nice setup for you! Only thing I'll say is that I personally find the hornady OAL gauge to be a complete waste of time and money. There are MUCH better ways of finding your CBTO in my opinion.

 

[Rock-o]

...not removing the carbon from inside the neck and cleaning with a nylon brush only on precision loads. The carbon creates a uniform layer and almost acts as a lube...

I don't wet tumble for this reason.