Custom mini Canadian belt knife

[Dixie]

So I just did a copy of a CBK one 3-1/2 and the other original 4” Made it 3/32 wider with a little more belly. The 3-1/2 one could be my favorite. Made them out of some .080 m2 I had on hand. Likely the only way to improve this design is with better steel and a thinner grind.

 

[CypressCreek]

So I just did a copy of a CBK one 3-1/2 and the other original 4” Made it 3/32 wider with a little more belly. The 3-1/2 one could be my favorite. Made them out of some .080 m2 I had on hand. Likely the only way to improve this design is with better steel and a thinner grind.
View attachment 813733

I really like the 3 1/2" version. It looks to be the perfect size, and the added belly look like it will make a very practical skinner.

 

[Dixie]

I really like the 3 1/2" version. It looks to be the perfect size, and the added belly look like it will make a very practical skinner.

Yes can’t wait to try it out next year,could be my favorite one but I’ve said that before many times.

 

[CypressCreek]

Yes can’t wait to try it out next year,could be my favorite one but I’ve said that before many times.

I know that saying all too well!

 

[Slalomnorth]

I guess I'll continue on with the hijack of this thread.

I've been messing around with a Grohmann #3 inspired knife. This is a surprisingly difficult pattern. Here is what I've come up with so far. Please give me some design critiques! I think I'm starting to understand the idea behind the offset blade/handle.

View attachment 813552View attachment 813553View attachment 813555

This looks great to me.

So I just did a copy of a CBK one 3-1/2 and the other original 4” Made it 3/32 wider with a little more belly. The 3-1/2 one could be my favorite. Made them out of some .080 m2 I had on hand. Likely the only way to improve this design is with better steel and a thinner grind.
View attachment 813733

Your design also looks great but I did have one question. I’ve noticed with some belt knives (like the LT SNH) the edge towards the ricasso starts to slope upwards instead of staying straight. Is there a reason for this? See photo.

 

[Dixie]

This looks great to me.


Your design also looks great but I did have one question. I’ve noticed with some belt knives (like the LT SNH) the edge towards the ricasso starts to slope upwards instead of staying straight. Is there a reason for this? See photo.
View attachment 813870

Gives the blade more belly and moves it back towards the center . If you look at the picture of the CBK (cold steel) it has that shape. I just added 3/32 to the max width to the original one ,tried to keep the handle offset the same.

 

[ElPollo]

I really need to pick up a model 3. I'm not looking for an exact replica but definitely want to get closer to the original design

I like the fact that the original #3 has an optional flat grind. I also like the handle on those. It’s a little more hand filling.

 

[Dixie]

Did a little grinding on a .080 blade for one of my CBK’s ,first time doing one this wide and thin.This thin it’s usually a fishing knife. Doesn’t give you much time to get the lines correct. Initial hand sanding at 220.
Likely not for the ham handed knife user but should cut like a razor.

 

[CypressCreek]

Did a little grinding on a .080 blade for one of my CBK’s ,first time doing one this wide and thin.This thin it’s usually a fishing knife. Doesn’t give you much time to get the lines correct. Initial hand sanding at 220.
Likely not for the ham handed knife user but should cut like a razor.
View attachment 814212

Props to you for hand sanding! That is not my cup of tea. Too much elbow grease.

 

[RepeatPete]

I got a Cold Steel CBK for Christmas, and am intrigued by the shape, and the praise it gets. However, now that I have one in hand, I’m surprised that the blade and handle aren’t actually canted with respect to each other, they are still in line. It’s just that the back edge of the blade drops as it approaches the handle, and the back edge of the handle drops as it approaches the blade. The pictures I had seen made the blade look much more angled back.
I’m very excited to try it out on some animals this year.

Shown below with a skinner Dan from @Slalomnorth, which I am super impressed with and which is currently my favorite overall shape and edge geometry - high flat grind, very thin behind the edge, and made from thinner magnacut (0.08” or 0.1”, I can’t remember). Due to the fact that it’s a more skinning-oriented pattern, the blade is more laid back with respect to the handle.

 

[hereinaz]

Did a little grinding on a .080 blade for one of my CBK’s ,first time doing one this wide and thin.This thin it’s usually a fishing knife. Doesn’t give you much time to get the lines correct. Initial hand sanding at 220.
Likely not for the ham handed knife user but should cut like a razor.
View attachment 814212

Excellent grinding!

 

[Dixie]

I got a Cold Steel CBK for Christmas, and am intrigued by the shape, and the praise it gets. However, now that I have one in hand, I’m surprised that the blade and handle aren’t actually canted with respect to each other, they are still in line. It’s just that the back edge of the blade drops as it approaches the handle, and the back edge of the handle drops as it approaches the blade. The pictures I had seen made the blade look much more angled back.
I’m very excited to try it out on some animals this year.

Shown below with a skinner Dan from @Slalomnorth, which I am super impressed with and which is currently my favorite overall shape and edge geometry - high flat grind, very thin behind the edge, and made from thinner magnacut (0.08” or 0.1”, I can’t remember). Due to the fact that it’s a more skinning-oriented pattern, the blade is more laid back with respect to the handle.

View attachment 814747

I’d say both will give you good service but the knife from cypress is one you can pass on to your grandkids . I agree the handle on the cold steel is kind of clunky, just testing the hardness of the cold steel the 60 RC file cut it a the 55 didn’t so somewhere between. The reason why the CBK works is the belly and the tip just higher the handle center line,same as the crosscut saw ,working on the ark of the circle. A flat edge spreads out the pressure and the circle concentrates it and the following edge cuts deeper.

 

[CypressCreek]

What is the general consensus on the handle shape of the CBK? Is the traditional handle shape preferred, or something more ergonomic like @Slalomnorth design?

 

[Dixie]

What is the general consensus on the handle shape of the CBK? Is the traditional handle shape preferred, or something more ergonomic like @Slalomnorth design?

What I don’t like about the cold steel handle is the step where you rest your thumb. I’d say the original wood handle or the Salomnorth style is likely just a visible preference likely not much function difference. I do like the lines of the Salomnorth handle.

 

[CypressCreek]

What I don’t like about the cold steel handle is the step where you rest your thumb. I’d say the original wood handle or the Salomnorth style is likely just a visible preference likely not much function difference. I do like the lines of the Salomnorth handle.

I too prefer the lines of the Slalomnorth handle, though the traditional handle (when done correctly) is surprisingly comfy.

I'm a bit surprised to find so much love for this design here. I figured it was a mostly forgotten pattern since there are so few offerings available.

 

[hereinaz]

I too prefer the lines of the Slalomnorth handle, though the traditional handle (when done correctly) is surprisingly comfy.

I'm a bit surprised to find so much love for this design here.

I have been thinking about much the same thing.

I think the design doesn’t get love generally because it doesn’t “look” like a knife should. Lines of knives definitely have a “look” and handle shapes that “feel good” when just holding.

Kitchen knives break many of the rules, because they have a specific function. Like the really old Green Mountain style skinning knives that have massive sweep to the blade. These made their way across the US skinning probably millions of beaver, bear, and buffalo. Each year, it’s said that 60,000 Green Mountain knives were shipped west from Mass. to the frontier and mountain men, including these skinner type as the most popular.

The Bowie knife gets more love as a fighting knife, but I understand this is the knife that really conquered the west. It was a mass produced working knife.

Get a useful, historic survival knife | The mountain man’s Russell Green River – Survival Common Sense Blog | Emergency Preparedness

survivalcommonsense.com

For breaking down game, functionally, the blade/handle angle of the CBK accomplishes much of the same ergonomic principles. The CBK improved on it.

Function is more important than form on Rokslide, i.e. the Rokstock, small bullets, etc. That’s why I think the design gets traction here.

I have been playing with an awesome knife that Dixie sent me and pondering the “ why” of the shape.

Haven’t cut on an animal yet, but spent a lot of time simulating how I have to reach and move my hand/wrist when breaking down an elk/deer.

I think the ergonomics and shape of the hand favor a transition between the 2nd and 3rd finger, with a taper for the 3rd and 4th finger.

It isn’t a sword or hammer that is gripped by the whole hand. It’s a precision tool, and allowing the 3/4 fingers to close tighter creates a way to grip the knife snd reach out to slice, with control in the fingers and wrist.

 

[Slalomnorth]

There’s a few things about handles that I think from a functional perspective aren’t talked about all that much, mostly relating to finger clearance. If a handle drops down from that relationship to the blade, you are missing out on utilizing more of the edge. I also tend to leave it fairly flat along the bottom because I like a neutral handle to slide around on. If you round the handle up towards the back I think it makes the usable length feel shorter.



I like the handle on a classic belt knife (like the cold steel or grohman), but to me feels a little awkward. It has that front half where you put your index and middle finger, then a sharp stop, then flat back of the handle. I just like a neutral line with gentle contour. The depth of the finger choil also plays a role in the finger clearance. I don’t necessarily think deep finger choils (or guards) are necessary but as mentioned more finger clearance, and serves as a guard.

 

[Dixie]

There’s a few things about handles that I think from a functional perspective aren’t talked about all that much, mostly relating to finger clearance. If a handle drops down from that relationship to the blade, you are missing out on utilizing more of the edge. I also tend to leave it fairly flat along the bottom because I like a neutral handle to slide around on. If you round the handle up towards the back I think it makes the usable length feel shorter.



I like the handle on a classic belt knife (like the cold steel or grohman), but to me feels a little awkward. It has that front half where you put your index and middle finger, then a sharp stop, then flat back of the handle. I just like a neutral line with gentle contour. The depth of the finger choil also plays a role in the finger clearance. I don’t necessarily think deep finger choils (or guards) are necessary but as mentioned more finger clearance, and serves as a guard.

I tend to hold a knife with index/middle fingers or choke up to middle/ring.
I never hold it full grip like a hammer.
I like straight lines on the bottom also because they’re easier to make smooth coming off the grinder.
The edge coming all the way to the finger (no ricasso)like the the Yukon #1 is a hard pass for me
Haven’t got a handle on my CBK 3-1/2 copy yet so verdict is still out but with a smoother transition on the top ,think I will like it.

Thinking of doing a stacked leather with a mule deer horn button on the back next. Working on a couple K-bars got me thinking…

 

[ElPollo]

I tend to hold a knife with index/middle fingers or choke up to middle/ring.
I never hold it full grip like a hammer.
I like straight lines on the bottom also because they’re easier to make smooth coming off the grinder.
The edge coming all the way to the finger (no ricasso)like the the Yukon #1 is a hard pass for me
Haven’t got a handle on my CBK 3-1/2 copy yet so verdict is still out but with a smoother transition on the top ,think I will like it.

Thinking of doing a stacked leather with a mule deer horn button on the back next. Working on a couple K-bars got me thinking…

My take on these CBK handles is similar. I think of them as specialized tools that are intended for taking animals apart. The handles are thin behind the blade to be used like a scalpel with the thumb, index and middle fingers. The angle of the handle works well with the sweeping belly and slightly higher than center point for slicing meat and facia. There’s enough meat in the rear of the handle to be able to bare down on it when cutting tendons and disjointing limbs. A hammer type grip just isn’t super helpful for those tasks.

 

[hereinaz]

My take on these CBK handles is similar. I think of them as specialized tools that are intended for taking animals apart. The handles are thin behind the blade to be used like a scalpel with the thumb, index and middle fingers. The angle of the handle works well with the sweeping belly and slightly higher than center point for slicing meat and facia. There’s enough meat in the rear of the handle to be able to bare down on it when cutting tendons and disjointing limbs. A hammer type grip just isn’t super helpful for those tasks.

This is where I am, other than gripping it to slice tendons between bones, I have some other hold on the knife.

In part, I think it is because the handle isn’t well positioned in relation to the hand/wrist to reach and slice with the Outdoor Edge I defaulted to when starting hunting based on what others are using.

There’s a few things about handles that I think from a functional perspective aren’t talked about all that much, mostly relating to finger clearance. If a handle drops down from that relationship to the blade, you are missing out on utilizing more of the edge. I also tend to leave it fairly flat along the bottom because I like a neutral handle to slide around on. If you round the handle up towards the back I think it makes the usable length feel shorter.



I like the handle on a classic belt knife (like the cold steel or grohman), but to me feels a little awkward. It has that front half where you put your index and middle finger, then a sharp stop, then flat back of the handle. I just like a neutral line with gentle contour. The depth of the finger choil also plays a role in the finger clearance. I don’t necessarily think deep finger choils (or guards) are necessary but as mentioned more finger clearance, and serves as a guard.

You can explain finger clearance in a way that makes sense. That’s what I for the most from the CBK designs in this thread, thinking about how I could reach and cut facia with a sweeping motion, which is limited with the knifes I have now. I get into the point too much or too close to my hand so I can’t get the blade on it.

I definitely think how a guy uses a knife and likes the handle is going to be personal, and unless the handle fits ergonomically, it’s like they talked about it above, that the handle is ignored when we choke up and pinch the blade.

I too think the way the handle is structured on the Cold Steel is a little weird. It’s not as usable, and would prefer your design over it 100%. I think it’s too long. But, it is in a decent relationship to the blade so you can access more blade.

I am curious to use the prototypes Dixie has made.