Custom mini Canadian belt knife

[Formidilosus]

Jared said he is working on a version of the Grohmann #3 that will grip/blade angle and tip alignment that you are talking about. I get what you are talking about on that. That said, the 3” is a pretty good set up for general use and a small game knife, and I’m quite happy with it. I also intend to use it on big game as well.

Oh no doubt- it looks like a very handy knife. I was just sharing what has come out the last couple of years after using four different versions of Canadian belt knives. That angle is where a lot of the difference is and the ones that don’t have it are only marginally better taking animals apart than other knife styles IME. The ones that do have that acute angle between handle and blade, are different.

I’m also interested to see what you and Ryan are working for a CBK. Can you give us any details on it?

From left to right- first try S2H, Grohmann, Cold Steel, and not shown is the MKC:




I ordered 6 Grohmann #1’s in carbon steel from various venders including Grohmann last fall and winter, and only received two- 4 months later for one and 5 months after for another. They’re great knives but actually getting a non stainless steel one is apparently a 6 month to year wait. Also, the handle is a bit thick/square, and could benefit from tapering it down.

The S2H version isn’t some magical “never been done before” knife- There is a guy that makes knives that works at UM that wanted to make a hunting knife and asked Ryan/I what we would want. The #1 with some slight tweaks is it.

Blade length?

Same as Grohmann #1

Grind?

Still experimenting

Steel?

Will be tool steel- exact version not settled.

Handle materials?

Wood. Maybe micarta as the first one is, but wood.

Sheath?

Leather or kydex

Timeline?

No idea, but before spring I would guess.

Price range?

No clue, but not stupid.

 

[ElPollo]

Oh no doubt- it looks like a very handy knife. I was just sharing what has come out the last couple of years after using four different versions of Canadian belt knives. That angle is where a lot of the difference is and the ones that don’t have it are only marginally better taking animals apart than other knife styles IME. The ones that do have that acute angle between handle and blade, are different.






From left to right- first try S2H, Grohmann, Cold Steel, and not shown is the MKC:
View attachment 800541



I ordered 6 Grohmann #1’s in carbon steel from various venders including Grohmann last fall and winter, and only received two- 4 months later for one and 5 months after for another. They’re great knives but actually getting a non stainless steel one is apparently a 6 month to year wait. Also, the handle is a bit thick/square, and could benefit from tapering it down.

The S2H version isn’t some magical “never been done before” knife- There is a guy that makes knives that works at UM that wanted to make a hunting knife and asked Ryan/I what we would want. The #1 with some slight tweaks is it.




Same as Grohmann #1



Still experimenting



Will be tool steel- exact version not settled.




Wood. Maybe micarta as the first one is, but wood.




Leather or kydex




No idea, but before spring I would guess.





No clue, but not stupid.

I like where you are headed. I’ve never been a big fan of saber grinds and have always seen it as one of the downsides of the CBK. A flat ground, thinner CBK is what I was going for. Agree on the tool steel versions because the Grohmann stainless versions are not the best edge holders. However, you might consider 14C28N for blade steel for your project. I don’t know what your guy’s capabilities are for heat treatment are, but this steel at about 61 HRC gives you a super tough stainless steel that has very good edge retention. But it is also still easy for most people to sharpen and is relatively low cost. It’s generally thought of as the best balance between toughness and edge retention, but the heat treatment has to be done right.

 

[Netherman]

I'm on the hunt for the perfect CBK knife. I'm currently using a KOA Yukon #2 and think it's 90% there. I've used it to quarter 1.25 elk, 2 whitetail, and gut one whitetail. I loved it overall but had two complaints. I was worried my thumb might ride onto the blade when I had it flipped over cutting the hide from head to tail on both bulls (particularly the bigger one whose neck hide was the toughest I've come across). Not an issue on the whitetail. I also felt the blade was too long for gutting when cutting the diagram and lungs/windpipe. I ended up cutting one tenderloin as well as the heart on accident. (might have been less careful as I had the 3.5yo watching/trying to help).

I also used it at home for some boning and processing just to get more experience with it. It worked, but I much prefer a boning knife (DR or Vic 6" curved) for that type of work. The KOA felt overly thick, not "pointy" enough, and too short for longer and burger chopping type cuts.

Curious to hear other thoughts on blade length and why the 4" might be preferred for quartering type work. I never noticed it being an advantage, but might miss the added length when it's gone.

My ideal knife would have these specs:
CBK profile with blade angling up away from handle. Enough "hump" to make the skinning/gutting incisions easy, but a short enough overall height to "core" the butt.
Flat grind and or thinner blade stock. Won't be used for survival (unless I really have to...)
High vis handle.
"Magic"na cut or other high end stainless steel (not carbon or S90+). Don't want to worry about rust or have something difficult to touch up in the field.
Kydex sheath. Knife will go back in fatty and bloody. Would be cool to have some leather glued on for stropping.

TBD specs:
Blade length. Thinking closer to 3" for gutting/index finger along spine type work.
Finger guard/protection. I don't want something in the way, but maybe something in the handle design would help lock my thumb in when working with the knife flipped over.

 

[ElPollo]

I'm on the hunt for the perfect CBK knife. I'm currently using a KOA Yukon #2 and think it's 90% there. I've used it to quarter 1.25 elk, 2 whitetail, and gut one whitetail. I loved it overall but had two complaints. I was worried my thumb might ride onto the blade when I had it flipped over cutting the hide from head to tail on both bulls (particularly the bigger one whose neck hide was the toughest I've come across). Not an issue on the whitetail. I also felt the blade was too long for gutting when cutting the diagram and lungs/windpipe. I ended up cutting one tenderloin as well as the heart on accident. (might have been less careful as I had the 3.5yo watching/trying to help).

I also used it at home for some boning and processing just to get more experience with it. It worked, but I much prefer a boning knife (DR or Vic 6" curved) for that type of work. The KOA felt overly thick, not "pointy" enough, and too short for longer and burger chopping type cuts.

Curious to hear other thoughts on blade length and why the 4" might be preferred for quartering type work. I never noticed it being an advantage, but might miss the added length when it's gone.

My ideal knife would have these specs:
CBK profile with blade angling up away from handle. Enough "hump" to make the skinning/gutting incisions easy, but a short enough overall height to "core" the butt.
Flat grind and or thinner blade stock. Won't be used for survival (unless I really have to...)
High vis handle.
"Magic"na cut or other high end stainless steel (not carbon or S90+). Don't want to worry about rust or have something difficult to touch up in the field.
Kydex sheath. Knife will go back in fatty and bloody. Would be cool to have some leather glued on for stropping.

TBD specs:
Blade length. Thinking closer to 3" for gutting/index finger along spine type work.
Finger guard/protection. I don't want something in the way, but maybe something in the handle design would help lock my thumb in when working with the knife flipped over.

I agree with most of what you’ve said here. I am not a fan of thick blade stock and saber grinds for 98% of my use. I much prefer thin, slicey blades for quartering and boning. My current thought is about 3.5” long would be ideal. I agree with the finger protection, but using the angle of the handle in relation to the blade instead of a protrusion on the choil like the MKC knife. Doing it this way allows you to use your knife better for camp chore like food prep including chopping veggies. That little nipple on the MKC just gets in the way. I also agree with what Form says about the slightly higher point and slightly more belly. The center point on mine makes a good combo for everyday use, but what form describes is more optimal for gutting, skinning and boning. I also agree on Kydex. I am not a big fan of carrying traditional leather sheaths on my belt because I am prone snag them of stuff and rip them off. Kydex with an ulticlip can be clipped horizontally or vertically to you waist belt, pack belt, pack straps, molle, or in your pocket. The kydex is also not affected by moisture, oils, blood, mud, etc.

On the blade steel, I was interpreting Form as wanting something to keep costs down and be field-sharpenable. S90, S110, and lots of other super steels are not field sharpenable and may be prone to chipping from boning. I used an M390 blade this year and I think that’s about my limit for edge retention while still being sharpenable. It’s definitely something that traditional stones don’t work well on. I was carrying some small credit card sized diamond hones. Admittedly I didn’t need them. However, I prefer some some more toughness in a field blade. The knife on this thread is my first experience with MagnaCut, so my jury is still out on that one. It should be easier to sharpen than M390, but it will be a $250+ knife. If Form is wanting to keep costs down, something with less edge retention that is an improvement over traditional carbon steels and that still maintains high levels of toughness may be cheaper, easier to produce at scale, and be a hit a broader portion of the hunting market.

 

[Weldor]

I bought two of the old original D H Russel's model 57. Friends mother had them in a drawer. They both canadian made , super nice blades. Sent one to my brother. I like the 3" custom .

 

[Dixie]

Nice knife! Dang another rabbit hole to go down. Likely do a version like some of the comments in the thread.
Thinking cord wrap to keep the weight down and .100 ABE-L.

 

[sndmn11]

I'm started working on this yesterday.

 

[Lawnboi]

Closest I have found to perfect. Too bad they don’t make them like this anymore, was a fairly economical option.

 

[Dixie]

I'm started working on this yesterday.

Closest I have found to perfect. Too bad they don’t make them like this anymore, was a fairly economical option.


View attachment 801670

That’s about perfect ,as I’ve been trying for a few years to come up with something like that or the one in the post….yours is close to the one a made awhile ago…magnacut skinner. Not to derail the post I will start another one “let’s show your perfect do all hunting knife “

 

[Lawnboi]

That’s about perfect ,as I’ve been trying for a few years to come up with something like that or the one in the post….yours is close to the one a made awhile ago…magnacut skinner. Not to derail the post I will start another one “let’s show your perfect all do all hunting knife “

That shape looks excellent. I would bring a little more sweep to the back of the blade, I really like the continuous sweep on the lt weight I posted. That along with a fairly fine tip for working around joints. Flat grind in thin stock and it will be perfect.

Zipping this knife through hide has blown a few minds. The blade shape does most the work.

Big fan of the rounded handle too

 

[fwafwow]

@Slalomnorth

 

[Steve O]

I'm started working on this yesterday.

View attachment 801669

Hey if your selling any of your scrap, sign me up!

 

[sndmn11]

Hey if your selling any of your scrap, sign me up!

@feanor made the blade, this is the last M4 I have.
I used to make multi piece scales, but my time is more valuable now and I come out ahead getting them here https://www.woodbymohler.com/category/segmented-knife-scales

 

[feanor]

@feanor made the blade, this is the last M4 I have.
I used to make multi piece scales, but my time is more valuable now and I come out ahead getting them here https://www.woodbymohler.com/category/segmented-knife-scales

I forgot about that M4 version. That will be a screamer for sure. Post it up when you’re finished.

 

[Netherman]

That shape looks excellent. I would bring a little more sweep to the back of the blade, I really like the continuous sweep on the lt weight I posted. That along with a fairly fine tip for working around joints. Flat grind in thin stock and it will be perfect.

Zipping this knife through hide has blown a few minds. The blade shape does most the work.

Big fan of the rounded handle too

I agree with the continuous belly/sweep on the blade. maybe drop the point a touch more to be a bit pointier for detail work and keep the tip out of the way making the initial/opening hide cuts.

@Lawnboi any wishes for a longer blade. Also interested in your thoughts in the "heel" area. Do you feel like your thumb is "locked in" with the handle to blade design? Also wondering if you notice the choli or thicker part getting caught with opening/skinning cuts?

KOA Yukon

 

[Lawnboi]

I agree with the continuous belly/sweep on the blade. maybe drop the point a touch more to be a bit pointier for detail work and keep the tip out of the way making the initial/opening hide cuts.

@Lawnboi any wishes for a longer blade. Also interested in your thoughts in the "heel" area. Do you feel like your thumb is "locked in" with the handle to blade design? Also wondering if you notice the choli or thicker part getting caught with opening/skinning cuts?

KOA Yukon
View attachment 802060

Well shit, I had a book started and it just zapped it.

I do have a larger version of the LT wright. It’s a good knife but I feel like it’s more than I need for most tasks, and is a bit heavier.

The knife on the left is @Slalomnorth deer rock knives Canadian belt design. I think his knife blade geometry, he makes a very thin ground knife, combined with the LT handle would be about perfect. You can tell the deer rock is made by someone with big mits, my hands are pretty small and I tend to prefer the smaller rounded and arched handle. I do prefer the finger scallops on the deer rock for a pinch grip. I don’t necessarily care about the heel of the handle much only because I’m not holding this kind of knife in a typical full grip. Im using it more as a precision cutting instrument like a scalpel.

The choil could go. I get what your saying and its not needed, however I havnt seen an issue with it. I do like an indexing point before the blade to keep my finger off it. Enough that I know it’s not going to slide up.

I wish I could try more, I’m not much of a collector but the two orange handled knives see the majority of my cutting. Very happy with both. I could be talked into getting rid of the middle for that perfect knife. Would have to have blaze scales.

 

[Dixie]

That shape looks excellent. I would bring a little more sweep to the back of the blade, I really like the continuous sweep on the lt weight I posted. That along with a fairly fine tip for working around joints. Flat grind in thin stock and it will be perfect.

Zipping this knife through hide has blown a few minds. The blade shape does most the work.

Big fan of the rounded handle

Well shit, I had a book started and it just zapped it.View attachment 802348

I do have a larger version of the LT wright. It’s a good knife but I feel like it’s more than I need for most tasks, and is a bit heavier.

The knife on the left is @Slalomnorth deer rock knives Canadian belt design. I think his knife blade geometry, he makes a very thin ground knife, combined with the LT handle would be about perfect. You can tell the deer rock is made by someone with big mits, my hands are pretty small and I tend to prefer the smaller rounded and arched handle. I do prefer the finger scallops on the deer rock for a pinch grip. I don’t necessarily care about the heel of the handle much only because I’m not holding this kind of knife in a typical full grip. Im using it more as a precision cutting instrument like a scalpel.

The choil could go. I get what your saying and its not needed, however I havnt seen an issue with it. I do like an indexing point before the blade to keep my finger off it. Enough that I know it’s not going to slide up.

I wish I could try more, I’m not much of a collector but the two orange handled knives see the majority of my cutting. Very happy with both. I could be talked into getting rid of the middle for that perfect knife. Would have to have blaze scales.

The two in your post on the left are probably my next builds…maybe a tad smaller handle on the middle one and scallops on both . Definitely adding some more sweep back to the handle from my original ones.
I agree with the orange ,as I almost lost on this year in the snow if not for the orange handle.

 

[Slalomnorth]

Well shit, I had a book started and it just zapped it.View attachment 802348

I do have a larger version of the LT wright. It’s a good knife but I feel like it’s more than I need for most tasks, and is a bit heavier.

The knife on the left is @Slalomnorth deer rock knives Canadian belt design. I think his knife blade geometry, he makes a very thin ground knife, combined with the LT handle would be about perfect. You can tell the deer rock is made by someone with big mits, my hands are pretty small and I tend to prefer the smaller rounded and arched handle. I do prefer the finger scallops on the deer rock for a pinch grip. I don’t necessarily care about the heel of the handle much only because I’m not holding this kind of knife in a typical full grip. Im using it more as a precision cutting instrument like a scalpel.

The choil could go. I get what your saying and its not needed, however I havnt seen an issue with it. I do like an indexing point before the blade to keep my finger off it. Enough that I know it’s not going to slide up.

I wish I could try more, I’m not much of a collector but the two orange handled knives see the majority of my cutting. Very happy with both. I could be talked into getting rid of the middle for that perfect knife. Would have to have blaze scales.

Sounds like we need to make your dream belt knife build a reality . I also have a LT small northern hunter. When you have a handle shape like that it does allow a bit more finger clearance. The problem with most production belt knives is the stock is very thick. I consider anything over .125” over kill. There is lots of good reasons to buy a knife from a small maker instead of a production company (like mkc, benchmade, grohman, etc.) related to heat treats, geometry, and good grinding practices.

Lots of good stuff in this thread and the concept of blade/handle relationship is not often talked about but so crucial for a game knife in my opinion.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Lawnboi]

Sounds like we need to make your dream belt knife build a reality . I also have a LT small northern hunter. When you have a handle shape like that it does allow a bit more finger clearance. The problem with most production belt knives is the stock is very thick. I consider anything over .125” over kill. There is lots of good reasons to buy a knife from a small maker instead of a production company (like mkc, benchmade, grohman, etc.) related to heat treats, geometry, and good grinding practices.

Lots of good stuff in this thread and the concept of blade/handle relationship is not often talked about but so crucial for a game knife in my opinion.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m in if you can make it happen. I’ll pm you, I havnt had a knife built since you made me one last, so maybe it’s time.

 

[sierracharlie338]

I’m in if you can make it happen. I’ll pm you, I havnt had a knife built since you made me one last, so maybe it’s time.

It’s always time……..