Compensator or suppresor for spotting your shot

[rlmmarine]

Tring to make it ware i can spot my shot through my tikka superlite. Whats the best lightweight compensator to use. 419 hellfire? Would a suppressor be a better choice.
The sound isnt bothering me its for a hunting rifle. Im just looking for the best way to modify the rifle to spot my shot.
Ive already cut a few inches off the barrel and had it threaded.

Thanks for any input or recommendations

 

[HandgunHTR]

The better brakes will actually provide more recoil reduction than a suppressor, however they will add noise, which may lead to you involuntarily shutting your eyes.

You didn't mention what your rifle was chambered in. That makes a difference as well. Most of my rifles are relatively low recoiling anyway. The addition of a suppressor makes it super easy to spot my shots.

 

[rlmmarine]

The better brakes will actually provide more recoil reduction than a suppressor, however they will add noise, which may lead to you involuntarily shutting your eyes.

You didn't mention what your rifle was chambered in. That makes a difference as well. Most of my rifles are relatively low recoiling anyway. The addition of a suppressor makes it super easy to spot my shots.

Its in a light recoiling 6.5cm.
Last year i shot a pronghorn with it close to dusk and was kicking myself thinking i wounded it and it ran off with the herd. An hour later and not finding any blood what so ever i found the pronghorn not 100 yards from ware i shot it in a ravine. I never want to feel that again and want to be able to spot my shots better than before.
Any brand you prefer of a suppressor or compensator

 

[shax2lex]

I second what the guy above said. The new 4 chamber Area 419 Hellfire brake is a fantastic brake. I’ve used it and it’s great at reducing recoil.

I did decide to switch to a suppressor because I got tired of the concussion and I didn’t want to use ear plugs while hunting. The hellfire is insanely loud. The suppressor was helpful in seeing my shot and not disturbing other animals.

 

[HandgunHTR]

Since you are specifically wanting it for hunting purpose, I would recommend a suppressor.
The main reason is because while you may not be able to see your shot hit, you will hear it, even from 400 yards away.
Just like bow hunters who have hunted for a while can tell a good hit from bad by the sound of the hit, you will be able to do that when you hunt suppressed. I shot a whitetail this past fall at 327 yards. I heard the “whomp” of a good chest hit, watched her run into the trees and heard her crash. No way I hear anything but ringing without a suppressor.

As for recommendations, a SilencerCo Harvester EVO is a very good hunting suppressor that won’t break the bank.

 

[Nillion]

I have a Area 419 on my 6.5 creedmoor right now for that very reason, though I recently ordered a silencer that I will hopefully have by this fall. One word of caution, I'd highly advise against shooting a braked rifle without hearing protection. It makes a rifle a hell of a lot louder and is well into the hearing damage level.

Another thing, the Area 419 is a great brake but it's also fairly heavy. If you want something a little lighter check out the something like a VG6 Gamma.

 

[ID_Matt]

If you are looking for the absolute best way to spot impacts, a good brake and good form is the best solution. Suppressor will definitely tame it down and make it more enjoyable to shoot, but no question a good brake does a better job of recoil reduction. If noise doesn't bother you, I would look in to the Ti-Pro brakes. They are the lightest I know of and do a great job reducing felt recoil. While you are at it, if you are considering a suppressor, just do it. Don't wait until you absolutely want one and have to wait the time for a stamp.

 

[Seeknelk]

The extra weight 8-12 oz for most, of a suppressor will probably tame muzzle rise to nearly the same degree as a brake. And make it a super smooth, enjoyable shot experience.
But a good brake, like a MBM ti, or the area 419 , etc will definitely reduce recoil more. They only weight 3-6 oz.
But , yes ,you WILL cause permanent hearing damage if you ever pull the trigger without ear protection.

 

[davsco]

i have a 6.5 creed and 6.5 prc (among others...) and have shot these with brakes and with cans. both are definitely more jumpy with the can. louder with a brake, sure, but i wear electronic earpro when hunting so no big deal. and with the can, they're still loud enough where i def want to wear earpro.

 

[Formidilosus]

Its in a light recoiling 6.5cm.
Last year i shot a pronghorn with it close to dusk and was kicking myself thinking i wounded it and it ran off with the herd. An hour later and not finding any blood what so ever i found the pronghorn not 100 yards from ware i shot it in a ravine. I never want to feel that again and want to be able to spot my shots better than before.

You are on the correct track. Spotting ones own shots is one the biggest things to increased skill.

Good brakes will reduce recoil more than suppressors- about 40’ish % for a brake, and 30’ish % for a suppressor. However, in actual use, on the same exact rifles most people will spot more impacts/misses with a suppressor than a brake. Brakes reduce more recoil; however the concussion, noise, and debris thrown up by them takes considerable work and practice to not close your eyes at the shot. On the other hand, everything about a suppressor is helping you to keep your eyes open and see- greatly reduced blast, noise, concussion, debris, and reduced recoil; as well as a weight foreword bias that helps keep the rifle down.



The 6.5 CM in a T3 is right on the limit of recoil to being able to spot impacts, with any error in position and most will lose it. With a suppressor it is relatively easy with good body position. I’ve had about a dozen T3 lite barrels threaded in the last year. Most were cut down to 20” and then threaded, but some were not. Some of the smiths were comfortable threading 5/8-24 at 20” and some were not. Those that were not, are threaded 1/2-28 or 9/16-28 and use an adapter to get to 5/8-24. All work fine with a variety of suppressors.


As for make and models of cans, the base answer is just get quality. While there are some excellent cans on the market, if it’s was between waiting a year for a TBAC or CGS and 1 month for a good Form 1 can (and it is), the form 1 wins out every time. JK Armament makes a solvent trap kit that after an approved form 1, is a legit ten minute affair with a hand drill to turn into a very functional suppressor. I haveamd use cans from most of the “top” suppressor companies, and I would choose the JK route for personal use each time.


A few from this year-

Direct thread with a barrel flare, T3 Lite contour-



Direct thread 1/2-28, T3 Superlite-



Partners rifle, direct thread-



Direct thread with an adapter, Howa Alpine factory barrel-



Direct thread 5/8-24, T3 lite barrel cut to 20”-



Partners rifle, back rifle is direct thread with an adapter I believe, T3 lite contour-

 

[Firth]

@Formidilosus:
Suppressor neophyte here, but I started a Form 1 application the other day with the intention of picking up a JK Armament JK 155 rifle kit for center fire and a JK 105 for rimfire. Currently wading through the options. In addition to the two kits, I'm planning on a 1/2x28 thread mount and 5/8x24 mount for the rifle kit with an additional 1/2x28 thread mount dedicated to rimfire.

Planning on staying aluminum throughout. I do have a 16" AR-15 (LaRue ultimate upper and Tranquillo break) if that makes a difference. Is there a mount/adaptor I should be grabbing if I want to install on the Tranquilo? The break isn't attached now, because I just use the gun for hunting and I care more about muzzle blast vs recoil, but I could see it being handy to have the option to install the suppressor over the break. Maybe a tube extension would do it?

My problem right now is I don't know what I don't know. I got into the ATF paperwork and found out I needed to nail down the length, so my current task is figuring out what I need/want in addition to the standard kit that would affect length.

Guessing the superlight above has a 22" barrel due to the flutes? I have one in .223 with an SWFA 6x as my primary trainer. How to do you like the cost/benefit of hunting with the suppressor? A 22" barrel seems quite long to me with a suppressor on the end of it, but perhaps you get used to it? I'd think 16" or 18" would be more appealing but you seem to like 20" fine.

 

[HandgunHTR]

Not sure if any of you have seen this yet.

Not a 100% scientific method, but it is good for a general comparison.

 

[Formidilosus]

@Formidilosus:


Planning on staying aluminum throughout. I do have a 16" AR-15 (LaRue ultimate upper and Tranquillo break) if that makes a difference. Is there a mount/adaptor I should be grabbing if I want to install on the Tranquilo? The break isn't attached now, because I just use the gun for hunting and I care more about muzzle blast vs recoil, but I could see it being handy to have the option to install the suppressor over the break. Maybe a tube extension would do it?

Not quite sure what you’re asking? I have shot the Tranquillos a bit, but haven’t dug into them very much, however I believe the suppressor mount for them is proprietary.

My problem right now is I don't know what I don't know. I got into the ATF paperwork and found out I needed to nail down the length, so my current task is figuring out what I need/want in addition to the standard kit that would affect length.

Length on the form is average or normal, you can add or subtract length/baffles as you please. 8” is what everyone I know has done.

Guessing the superlight above has a 22" barrel due to the flutes? I have one in .223 with an SWFA 6x as my primary trainer. How to do you like the cost/benefit of hunting with the suppressor? A 22" barrel seems quite long to me with a suppressor on the end of it, but perhaps you get used to it? I'd think 16" or 18" would be more appealing but you seem to like 20" fine.

It is just shy of 22”. I wanted 20”, however the gunsmith that threaded it wasn’t comfortable threading into the flutes. Now, I would send to @Shooter71 and let him do it. 20” for me on this one even though I greatly prefer shorter because I require the MV for expansion range of the bullet for it uses. 18” would be great.

 

[Firth]

Not quite sure what you’re asking? I have shot the Tranquillos a bit, but haven’t dug into them very much, however I believe the suppressor mount for them is proprietary.




Length on the form is average or normal, you can add or subtract length/baffles as you please. 8” is what everyone I know has done.





It is just shy of 22”. I wanted 20”, however the gunsmith that threaded it wasn’t comfortable threading into the flutes. Now, I would send to @Shooter71 and let him do it. 20” for me on this one even though I greatly prefer shorter because I require the MV for expansion range of the bullet for it uses. 18” would be great.

Much appreciated! I don't always know what I'm asking either. Would you add anything to the standard JK kits (tube extension, additional baffles, etc.), or do you pretty much buy the standard kit and whatever adaptors are needed and roll with it?

After the minor derail, as a non-expert I'll add for the OP: My preference would be for a suppressor. Teaching my kids to shoot has made me pay attention more to the effects of muzzle blast. Watching them and how much it affected them made me pay a little more attention to myself. I've noticed that I generally shoot better when I double plug at the range (muffs and ear plugs). Maybe I'm more sensitive than most, but that's what I've found anyway. Anymore, I really try to avoid making anything louder unless it's strictly a range toy.

 

[Formidilosus]

Much appreciated! I don't always know what I'm asking either. Would you add anything to the standard JK kits (tube extension, additional baffles, etc.), or do you pretty much buy the standard kit and whatever adaptors are needed and roll with it?

You and me both.

Standard kit, tube extension, and the different thread adapters for the back end. That’s what I have experience with and it works well. There could be diffent combos that are better, but I do not know.

 

[rlmmarine]

Since you are specifically wanting it for hunting purpose, I would recommend a suppressor.
The main reason is because while you may not be able to see your shot hit, you will hear it, even from 400 yards away.
Just like bow hunters who have hunted for a while can tell a good hit from bad by the sound of the hit, you will be able to do that when you hunt suppressed. I shot a whitetail this past fall at 327 yards. I heard the “whomp” of a good chest hit, watched her run into the trees and heard her crash. No way I hear anything but ringing without a suppressor.

As for recommendations, a SilencerCo Harvester EVO is a very good hunting suppressor that won’t break the bank.

Thankyou for your recommendation

 

[HandgunHTR]

@Formidilosus, not to hijack the thread, but who are you using to do your engraving?
I did my own on my Form 1 suppressor, but I think I would like something a bit more professional for my next one.

 

[Formidilosus]

@Formidilosus, not to hijack the thread, but who are you using to do your engraving?
I did my own on my Form 1 suppressor, but I think I would like something a bit more professional for my next one.

It was personally done. I don’t care about looks.

 

[roosiebull]

Tring to make it ware i can spot my shot through my tikka superlite. Whats the best lightweight compensator to use. 419 hellfire? Would a suppressor be a better choice.
The sound isnt bothering me its for a hunting rifle. Im just looking for the best way to modify the rifle to spot my shot.
Ive already cut a few inches off the barrel and had it threaded.

Thanks for any input or recommendations

not directly related, but still related....

another thing that helps with what you are trying to accomplish is back off the zoom power on the scope shooting at critters.... zoomed all the way in with the smallest FOV possible does you no favors seeing what happens as the trigger is pulled. going with the lowest magnification that still gives you the precision needed helps a lot to spot your hit and see what happens directly after bullet impact... it also gives a more relaxed sight picture before you shoot, which is never bad in actual field scenarios.

dialing in a load, and dialing in your rifle on the bench, higher mag is nice, but in the woods, looking at an animal you plan to shoot, from a field position, less magnification has a lot of benefit. the smaller your FOV, the less muzzle jump it takes to pull you off target, and the slower it will be to follow up and get back on target.... may or may not be applicable, but certainly something to consider.

it took me awhile to figure that out

 

[madcalfe]

light weight id say the PVA ultralight jet blast. its 1.4oz i run one on my 20" 300wsm