Spotting your shot, most import factors.

There's other basic body mechanics that I've learned in other athletic pursuits that I find applicable to good shooting form. Activating my core, breathing from my belly/diaphragm rather than my throat/upper chest, making sure my legs/feet/butt are active, making sure I keep an active/open chest and not let my posture go limp or collapse on the gun after a few shots. All things you would do if I was going to say throw a 10lb medicine ball at you and have you catch it and throw it back with force.
 
Are you an Olympic level biathlete or freestyle competitor? Are you a world class bullseye or service rifle competitor? If not- stop giving advice that you don’t understand.
Right. Lol

I don’t mention anything that folks can’t look into further themselves, and they shouldn’t take my word for it, or trust videos from some measly national champion smallbore silhouette shooter. If an idea has real value it isn’t a secret, or limited to only certain shooting disciplines.

You like people to believe only your ideas are valid and it helps some shooters to know other techniques exist. There’s a lot of value in how you teach people, and there’s value in other techniques as well.

You’ll be ok.
 
Right. Lol

I don’t mention anything that folks can’t look into further themselves, and they shouldn’t take my word for it, or trust videos from some measly national champion smallbore silhouette shooter.


I can guarantee you that shooter isn’t telling normal shooters and hunters to time their shots offhand anymore than a patch wearing F15 pilot is trying to tell a normal human how to dog fight in a float plane.
 
I can guarantee you that shooter isn’t telling normal shooters and hunters to time their shots offhand anymore than a patch wearing F15 pilot is trying to tell a normal human how to dog fight in a float plane.
Are you drunk? Who said anything about hunters timing shots? You must not understand the concept behind active trigger control. It’s ok, you don’t have fully understand it to flap your gums about it. It’s actually kind of fun listing to you try to criticize it. lol
 
Are you drunk? Who said anything about hunters timing shots? You must not understand the concept behind active trigger control. It’s ok, you don’t have fully understand it to flap your gums about it. It’s actually kind of fun listing to you try to criticize it. lol


What do you believe was shown in the video you posted?

Here- I highlighted the “timing” part. How does one take “the first suitable shot coming onto the target”- without timing? Thats literally what that means. We can Ignore that the pictures you posted of the SCAT showing exactly that for now….


IMG_2217.jpeg



At no point have I said that extremely high level competitors with absolute control of the gun shouldn’t time, or use “active trigger”. I have said that telling hunters and shooters who aren’t world class to do so as some sort “good idea” is terrible advice. And anyone that has watched non high level competitors (that would be almost everyone on this board) try to do so has watched the bottom fall out- because they do not have complete control of themselves.
 
What do you believe was shown in the video you posted?

Here- I highlighted the “timing” part. How does one take “the first suitable shot coming onto the target”- without timing? Thats literally what that means. We can Ignore that the pictures you posted of the SCAT showing exactly that for now….


View attachment 983544



At no point have I said that extremely high level competitors with absolute control of the gun shouldn’t time, or use “active trigger”. I have said that telling hunters and shooters who aren’t world class to do so as some sort “good idea” is terrible advice. And anyone that has watched non high level competitors (that would be almost everyone on this board) try to do so has watched the bottom fall out- because they do not have complete control of themselves.
Don’t feel bad, it’s not an easy concept for all people. The first “suitable” shot is not just firing away Willy nilly and taking a bad shot. Yes, it does require good judgement.

Maybe a more basic example will help you. If you are landing a plane and the runway is not lined up correctly for a safe landing you don’t force the plane down to land, but go around and take another stab at it. On the other hand if it is lined up correctly you land the plane and not dilly dally around.

You might be more comfortable flying circles wobbling around a dry lake bed, cutting the engine and where ever you land will have to be good enough.

Actual picture of you and I landing our planes.

IMG_1234.jpeg
 
Don’t feel bad, it’s not an easy concept for all people. The first “suitable” shot is not just firing away Willy nilly and taking a bad shot. Yes, it does require good judgement.

Maybe a more basic example will help you. If you are landing a plane and the runway is not lined up correctly for a safe landing you don’t force the plane down to land, but go around and take another stab at it. On the other hand if it is lined up correctly you land the plane and not dilly dally around.

You might be more comfortable flying circles wobbling around a dry lake bed, cutting the engine and where ever you land will have to be good enough.

Actual picture of you and I landing our planes.

View attachment 983576


As with all of what you write- including the gem of “learning to call wind for shooting, without shooting at all”; you couldn’t answer direct questions or engage in the actual subject.
 
New question—I sometimes find myself pulling the rifle downward with my shooting hand to steady it while shooting prone over a molinator.

I can’t figure out if that downward pressure is better or worse than just letting the rifle rest on its own weight on the molinator and my rear support hand.

What does right look like?
 
New question—I sometimes find myself pulling the rifle downward with my shooting hand to steady it while shooting prone over a molinator.

I can’t figure out if that downward pressure is better or worse than just letting the rifle rest on its own weight on the molinator and my rear support hand.

What does right look like?
Are you saying you pull it down into the molinator?

Do you pinch the stock with your offhand?

Does pulling it into your shoulder a bit more settle wobble?
 
Are you saying you pull it down into the molinator?

Do you pinch the stock with your offhand?

Does pulling it into your shoulder a bit more settle wobble?

Yes, yes, and yes. So what happens in recoil because of the downward force?
Is this helping my shot or hurting it? I shoot a couple hundred rounds a month and my 10 round groups with the same rifle/ammo/rest vary from 1.2” to 2” and I can’t figure out what I’m doing right or wrong and I’m curious about this variable

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Yes, yes, and yes. So what happens in recoil because of the downward force?
Is this helping my shot or hurting it? I shoot a couple hundred rounds a month and my 10 round groups with the same rifle/ammo/rest vary from 1.2” to 2” and I can’t figure out what I’m doing right or wrong and I’m curious about this variable

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
What caliber?
 
Any of my lightweight bolt guns. All my gas guns shoot lights out any day of the week
Are rhe AR heavier?
What is the wobble like?
What is your front rest?

I don’t know that I like the Molinator as much as I do their Jellyfish style. I don’t shoot off anything like the Molinator.

If you are pressing down, you are going to get movement when the rifle breaks in that direction. It’s why pulling straight back with the shooting hand to trap the rifle is important. Your force is in the intended direction of the recoil.

Hard to say anything specific from my experience. I would be curious what the difference is if you have a heavy sandbag in back. I see that make a difference with shooters I help.
 
Can you describe the process you go through to do this?
I start with scope loosely in the rings, and a level already on it if I am going to tighten in place.

I get prone, the head is further forward in that position, so I push the scope as far forward away from my eye until I lose sight picture. Then I slowly bring it back to my eye until I get a clear picture and just a tiny bit of scope shadow. I mark it with a piece of tape on the scope ring closest to me.

Then I go standing or seated fully right. I pull the scope towards me until I lose a good picture, then I push it forward until I get a tiny bit of scope shadow again and mark it with tape on the far side of the scope ring.

I now have the two extremes. As long as the eye box is long enough, you can split the difference and put the scope in the middle of the marks and should be inside the eye box for both positions.

Do it on the highest power. I also keep my eye closed and look away to get my eye focused and get relaxed before I open my eye. I also have others get in and out of position a couple of times to make sure they are getting into a consistent position.

Sometimes direct mount rings don’t give me the flexibility I need, and the scope is all the way back. It depends on the person and the scope. Compact scopes are that way. Another issue is that clamping the rings close to the turrets can cause issues with some scopes, so I usually try to stay at least 1/4 away, but that’s not scientific or anything…

If I need to cheat it towards one extreme, I cheat it towards the position I use most.
 
Back
Top