Center shot - moving rest vs yokes/shims

[CarlTuesday]

Maybe this is covered specifically elsewhere and I just can't find it, but when trying to get a good papertune to start I currently have a pretty good nock right tear (righty shooter).

The question is:

Assuming (twin cam bow) the cam lean looks reasonable when eyeballed and spine is in the ballpark, how much is too much when it comes to bringing the rest left away from my bows recommended 13/16" center shot?

I assume if I get to "too much" then I need to be looking at yokes instead first?

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[Zac]

Yes, I never touch my center shot unless I'm dealing with a fixed blade. I don't touch it with mechanicals either. Put turns in your right yoke and subtract them from the left. Match the number of turns in each yoke, you can move the rest up and down for vertical tears until you come out of the Berger hole. At that point you need to tie a new loop.

 

[dkime]

Maybe this is covered specifically elsewhere and I just can't find it, but when trying to get a good papertune to start I currently have a pretty good nock right tear (righty shooter).

The question is:

Assuming (twin cam bow) the cam lean looks reasonable when eyeballed and spine is in the ballpark, how much is too much when it comes to bringing the rest left away from my bows recommended 13/16" center shot?

I assume if I get to "too much" then I need to be looking at yokes instead first?

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Tough question to answer based on the information given, but adjust it out 1/16" at first. I don't pay much attention to what the actual centershot measurement is but more so if it is running parallel to the inside of the riser shelf, place a bareshaft on your riser and make sure that your nocked arrow is running parallel to the riser held against the inside of your shelf. Checking cam lean should be done at full draw which is tough without a drawboard given that DL is going to greatly impact how your bowstring comes off your top cam.

Move it out a 1/16" to 7/8", if that doesn't help manipulate your D Loop length a little longer and see if that also helps. 1/8" is a mile when it comes to a D Loop. Shoot me a PM if you're not winning.

 

[CarlTuesday]

Thanks, and confirms I'm on the right track with yoke adjustments. Got the lean out using crappy DIY draw board that is moderately scary due to winch quality, so hoping when I restart tuning I'm much closer.

I didn't mention how far out I was with the rest (and def NOT parallel to riser) when I had it shooting "right" thru paper because I didn't want to bias the responses, but I was probably at +1/4" to 5/16" and bow had a noticeable kick to left at release. Figured "that cannot possibly be right, even if it goes thru paper". Back home with draw board saw the cam lean was pretty bad, even if it seemed "fine" at rest...

Had I been more sure that going, say 1/8 out of center shot was very abnormal I probably would've changed tactics earlier...

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[Rob5589]

I prefer not to move the rest more than about 1/16, and only to fine tune after yoke tuning. I always check lean at full draw.

 

[CarlTuesday]

Got my cams straightened out, I think (twin cam, mission switch)... I had to add a lot of twists to the top right and take off top left and this got a shaft to sit parallel to the string. I'm glad it worked cuz I was just about three twists from having my top left split of the yoke running "untwisted" bottom cam if I had to go farther. This fixed my cam lean at full draw AND helped wrt to right tear, so win-win.

Bottom cam: not quite perfect, arrow pt crosses the string just prior to d-loop from right to left, but better. That said, I got it close and was unsure if I was just chasing squirrels at this point on the bottom cam. Also, if I want to fix a right tear, at this point, I think taking out the cam lean would be working against me.

TIMING:
Checked timing throughout the process and now have it set where the top cam is probably a 1/16 earlier in the draw cycle to hit the stop module...

I tried to get it closer to even and/or just a little bit less early - however another half twist added up top slows it down where it's noticeably late vs bottom cam. A half twist off the bottom cam puts me at almost dead even, but the top is a touch behind... So given other advice I went back to where I was.

ON PAPER:

improved, but still a right tear. Just not so bad on either bare shaft or fletched vs prior.
Bare shaft was a consistent 3/8" right tear at 7'.

Fletched was 1/4 low and 1/4 right at 7'.

Photo attached, since I've been driving myself nuts with this I took notes on the paper like I would with firearm load development. Nice and consistent at least!

So the question at this point:

Do I keep messing with the yokes?

If so, do I do it up top even though I'm at the point where I'd be putting lean into the now level top cam and/or leaning the bottom cam further "out of plane"?

If not, what is next - fix vertical nock low condition and then go to the rest for right tear?
Spine should be good per archers advantage, but I do have some longer arrows (same spine) that I could check.

OR - Maybe it's the archer at this point, and I need to wait for firearms season?


Sorry for the word wall, but I've taken a lot of deep breaths during this process... Also cursed my not great sit draw board and portable bowmaster press. Appreciate all the feedback.

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