Carbon 6 Tikka pre-fit

[SDHNTR]

Gauges showed up today and I got it all put together. Headspaced fine and the chamber looks pretty good. View attachment 547566

Looks great. What stock is that?

 

[Deerfield]

Looks great. What stock is that?

Mesa Altitude

 

[EcoastDG]

You're probably going to need to bump shoulders every firing and may not be able to load every round since it could be a tight chamber. Run some factory ammo through the chamber without firing to see if they all will chamber. I wouldn't pull the trigger if there is any chance you want to send the bbl back.

Was able to shoot the rifle today. No real issues. Only had one Eldm that the bolt would not close on. All the others were fine. No pressure signs either. As far as accuracy, my second 3 shot group was a ragged hole (175 eldx). Shot one 5 shot group within an inch but that was with a lot of mirage off my suppressor. So far I’m impressed by the 7 prc. Really mild recoil suppressed. Felt like a .243.
My chronograph was giving me slow speeds (2800 eldx; 2840 with eldm- 22 inch barrel) . I’m going to change the battery and try again soon.

 

[Tahoe1305]

Shot my 7wsm today as well. My std handloads with 175eldx were a bit slower than I thought they’d be at 2830fps out of a 20”. My factory 162eldx where 2920 and three shot was .75” fairly unstable shooting on rock. Sure it will speed up a bit too.

My savage 23” C6 with same load of 175s shoots 2975fps. I am hoping it will stabilize about 2875 or so.

 

[Sled]

I was able to pull off on the side of a highway in Wyoming today to test out the new barrel. That seems like the only way I'm going to be able to get time these days is to fit it into work. Anyhow, I only got one shot in with a light load before I decided that would be it. Had an ejector swipe and stiff bolt lift.

I just wanted to try it out to see if the short head space would be an issue. Looks like I will have to send in the action. I am nervous about what I get back but I'll talk with Ron and see what he'd like to do.

 

[BrettJolly]

Just got my carbon six Tikka prefit. 270 win fast twist 1:8. Has a rough spot on base of the threading? Think this will be an issue? Something I should send back? Or not worry about?

 

[TxLite]

Just got my carbon six Tikka prefit. 270 win fast twist 1:8. Has a rough spot on base of the threading? Think this will be an issue? Something I should send back? Or not worry about?

Looks like it was dropped?

 

[BrettJolly]

Looks like it was dropped?

That’s what I thought too? That’s how it looked when I took it out of the packing tube it came in. Think it’s ok? Or should I contact them and send back?

 

[TxLite]

That’s what I thought too? That’s how it looked when I took it out of the packing tube it came in. Think it’s ok? Or should I contact them and send back?

My guess is that it’s probably ok as long as it threads on easily, but I would send them pictures and ask. That way it’s documented in case any issues pop up.

 

[wapitibob]

Hit it with a file, the chamfer doesn’t touch anything.

 

[BrettJolly]

My guess is that it’s probably ok as long as it threads on easily, but I would send them pictures and ask. That way it’s documented in case any issues pop up.

Talked to my gunsmith friend and he suggested the same. I called carbon six left a message and got a call back from Gene shortly after. Sent pics it’s now documented and he said they will look into it Monday and go from there.

 

[Sled]

7th shipping label created and the now barreled action is on the way back. I hope it works this time but I was told the headspace is the same as they sent the 2nd barrel with initially. That one was oversized and two different PTG no go gauges would close on it. We'll see but something isn't adding up.

 

[Tahoe1305]

7th shipping label created and the now barreled action is on the way back. I hope it works this time but I was told the headspace is the same as they sent the 2nd barrel with initially. That one was oversized and two different PTG no go gauges would close on it. We'll see but something isn't adding up.

Not to argue but I did some research on this as well. Just because a no go gauge closes on it doesn’t mean it’s out of spec. Means it’s likely a tad more headspace than you may want (and I would as well). But different companies make headspace gauges to different spec. That may be .002-.004” larger than the go gauge. SAAMI spec is usually bigger than that and technically if it’s within SAAMI spec it is safe for a chamber. Although looser than we may want.

The way I understand it the field gauge is the max per SAAMI spec. Have you tried a field gauge? (Or added a piece of tape to the no go to see if that is tight?…adds .002” usually).

When I got mine a month back it was .005” larger than the go gauge (I use the tape method). That was one piece (.002”) more than my other barrels and I was frustrated too until I realized it was technically within spec.

I shot it and it shot well so I didn’t worry much about it.

Custom is custom. Prefit is well prefit (it has to fit all actions) so it will typically have a tad more slop unfortunately. Not always the case but I’ve seen it.

Not sure that helps or what you want to hear, but a possible reason.

Adding: torque makes a big difference too (yours Vs theirs vs tikkas factory). They come from factory tight as heck. When I put mine on I got about .001” for every extra 1/4 turn (some mathematician may fo the actual calc for us). But slightly over torquing (aka torquing like tikka) could solve a few thousands too.

 

[JoeDirt]

Not to argue but I did some research on this as well. Just because a no go gauge closes on it doesn’t mean it’s out of spec. Means it’s likely a tad more headspace than you may want (and I would as well). But different companies make headspace gauges to different spec. That may be .002-.004” larger than the go gauge. SAAMI spec is usually bigger than that and technically if it’s within SAAMI spec it is safe for a chamber. Although looser than we may want.

The way I understand it the field gauge is the max per SAAMI spec. Have you tried a field gauge? (Or added a piece of tape to the no go to see if that is tight?…adds .002” usually).

When I got mine a month back it was .005” larger than the go gauge (I use the tape method). That was one piece (.002”) more than my other barrels and I was frustrated too until I realized it was technically within spec.

I shot it and it shot well so I didn’t worry much about it.

Custom is custom. Prefit is well prefit (it has to fit all actions) so it will typically have a tad more slop unfortunately. Not always the case but I’ve seen it.

Not sure that helps or what you want to hear, but a possible reason.

Adding: torque makes a big difference too (yours Vs theirs vs tikkas factory). They come from factory tight as heck. When I put mine on I got about .001” for every extra 1/4 turn (some mathematician may fo the actual calc for us). But slightly over torquing (aka torquing like tikka) could solve a few thousands too.

This I found to be an accurate statement Just to add onto this for the OP

Every gauge manufacture is a little different also, using a Hornady headspace comparator tool will show you this.

SAAMI should be +- .005" from the middle of the tolerance for a total of .010" I think my Go Gauge was .003" larger than SAAMI minimum and my No Go was .008"

Adding a piece of Scotch tape (.002") I figured mine was right in the middle around .005"-.006"

A field gauge would tell you if the firearm is safe to shoot or not. Slightly more headspace is fine for factory ammo guns. A tighter headspace is more alluring to reloading because it doesn't stretch the brass as much.


Pre fit barrels will always be a gamble.

 

[JoeDirt]

Just got my carbon six Tikka prefit. 270 win fast twist 1:8. Has a rough spot on base of the threading? Think this will be an issue? Something I should send back? Or not worry about?

Hit it with a fine file so it doesn't gall the. Common shipping damage, has no effect if it screws into the action. My guess is it passed QC, they could have buffed the threads a little for appearance though.

 

[Wetwork]

The down side to using that dinged barrel is you might blame everything on that ding. You'll always be wondering if that little imperfection is the root cause of stuff. If you bought a new barrel you bought a new barrel not a dinged one. Just my opinion. I'm not a jerk.... its just, I would always be wondering if any little problem is that dinged barrel, even if its not.-WW

 

[SDHNTR]

That ding is nowhere near any bearing surface. It’s not into the threads it appears. I’d hit it with a very fine gunsmithing mini file, then some fine wet dry sand paper, then a blast with brake cleaner/gun scrubber and call it good.

 

[Muddler]

Not to derail too much, whats the best way to remove the ejector on the bolt in order to set the head space proper? Don't want booger up my bolt without asking for sure how to do it. Done this on Rem clones before...same thing? Hold ejector in, knock out the pin?

 

[SDHNTR]

Not to derail too much, whats the best way to remove the ejector on the bolt in order to set the head space proper? Don't want booger up my bolt without asking for sure how to do it. Done this on Rem clones before...same thing? Hold ejector in, knock out the pin?

Stick the end of the bolt inside a clear plastic baggie or ziplock. Punch out the retaining pin. The baggie will help to keep the spring from flying across the garage.

That said, if you are checking headspace with a gauge, you shouldn’t need to. It’s pretty easy to tell the difference between the slight bit of ejector spring pressure and the hard stop of steel on steel of a no go gauge.

 

[BrettJolly]

I contacted them, they sent me a UPS shipping label immediately and I sent it back. Already have the barrel back home and it looks just fine now. Quick fix and turnaround.