Can not sight in new accura Mr-x (advice needed)

[ElDiablito]

Does anyone else know a rough estimate what my FPS should be with my setup :cva accura Mr-x, 2 IMR white hots (100G), cheddite primer, & 290G Hornady boredrivers?

 

[TonySkyline]

So I want to update this, as I’m unfortunately still unable to get good (huntable) groups at 100 yards. Yesterday I shot at 50 and it wasn’t great but it was close. I moved by turret up to clicks and moved target back to 100 yards. First shot I completely miss target… hoping it’s a fluke I shoot again and hit 2” high and 2” to the right. Next shot is touching then following shot hit low but still not horrible then my last shot is so low it misses the paper and hits bottom right, almost 12” lower than previous shot…. Wtf… at this point I was going to call or email cva to see what they thought but they’re closed for holidays.. I’m thinking I got an accura lemon (I’ve seen lots of people say this about the Mr-x), or it’s that damn breech plug. Maybe the pellets aren’t sitting flush. Can’t find another one available so does anybody know for certain, that I can use the black horn breech plug with pellets? If not my next step is trying some BH 209. If that don’t work I’ll swap scopes and after all that, it’s getting sold if I can’t get at least 2”-3” groups at 100 (which I would consider bad but I’m new to muzzleloaders so not sure what’s realistic). Again, it’s ok at 50 yards but completely falls apart at 100 yards.

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[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

Have you put a reliable scope on there to verify it’s the gun versus your scope shifting all over before you go complaining to CVA? Frankly it sounds like a scope issue with the wandering shots.

Both my CVAs shoot tight at 100yd with open sights.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

Your scope is trashed. And it's telling you so every time you go out. It wasn't good to begin with and the lead sled finished it off. In not the first person to tell you that.

You've also been told a bunch of times to just pick one load and stick with it, and to stop cleaning so much.

This thread actually has a bunch of good advice if you'll just read and act on it. I really doubt that your barrel is the problem. Everything else in your setup and approach is extremely suspect.

 

[KChunter71]

Call Luke at Arrowhead Rifles @LWH723

Scope or you have a consistent ignition problem/powder issue

 

[tracker12]

Take off a quality scope off one of your guns install it on your muzzy and hit the range and see if that corrects the problem. If you have the gun on paper there is no reason to adjust the scope to get it in the bull. At this point you want to fix a problem. Just shoot a 5 shot group and see if they group. And don’t clean between shots. If the gun still shots bad then you may have a gun problem. And you really need to shoot off a bench with bags or bipod.

 

[CorbLand]

This is actually kind of ironic. I had a Wolf with that same scope and it did the same thing. It shot pretty good at 50 yards, step back to 100 and it was all over the place. I was a broke ass newly wed at the time and didnt have funds to try a new scope so I just sold the gun.

If I had to guess, its your scope.

 

[TonySkyline]

I’ve stuck with white hots & 290G boredrivers. They seemed good at 50 but open way way up at 100. Never had a scope fail but how would I know? It’s not loose at all.. would the reticle had shifted or something internally?


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[CorbLand]

I’ve stuck with white hots & 290G boredrivers. They seemed good at 50 but open way way up at 100. Never had a scope fail but how would I know? It’s not loose at all.. would the reticle had shifted or something internally?


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Yes, it could be the reticle or some other internal part that isnt holding in the scope.

Really the only way to know would be to try a different scope on the gun. Preferably one that has been proven reliable in the past.

 

[LongWayAround]

Nikon quit making rifle scopes.

It wasn't because they were good at it...

 

[dsotm]

Try putting a reliable scope on, yours is probably trashed

 

[Antares]

*Does anyone else know a rough estimate what my FPS should be with my setup :cva accura Mr-x, 2 IMR white hots (100G), cheddite primer, & 290G Hornady boredrivers?

I shoot the same combo in my MR-X (2 White Hots pellets + 290 Bore Driver) and my drops tell me I'm getting 1610 fps, which is very close to what's shown on the table @ElDiablito posted.

 

[TonySkyline]

I shoot the same combo in my MR-X (2 White Hots pellets + 290 Bore Driver) and my drops tell me I'm getting 1610 fps, which is very close to what's shown on the table @ElDiablito posted.

Awesome, thanks for confirming. What kind of grouping are you getting at 100 yards?


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[TonySkyline]

Has anyone tried to use the blackhorn plug with pellets? Still need more powder so I’d like to stick with the white hots but I’ll have to go to BH if I can’t use this breechplug with pellets.


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[Antares]

This was last time I shot. That's a 1.5” dot at 100 yards. Using a Holosun 510c red dot (no scopes allowed on muzzleloaders in AK).

 

[TonySkyline]

Anyone try that Burris muzzleloader scope? It’s got a bunch of good reviews and it’s half the price of the Leupold (which is the one I want but bad timing financially rn). The Burris looks decent, it has metal on metal adjustments and a decent bdc that can be calibrated to whatever bullet and fps. The only negative I can see is the tiny 40mm objective lens on it (I like larger bells to let in more light). The other one in this price range is a vortex crossfire which I have doubts about. If they both are crap scopes I’ll swap one off another rifle and snag a Leupold later this winter (getting one for my 450 bushmaster anyway and I like Leupold scopes).


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[TonySkyline]

Nikon quit making rifle scopes.

It wasn't because they were good at it...

I’m starting to see why. My brother in law had a Nikon Monarch which I absolutely loved when I first started hunting 18 years ago. Up until now, it was the only scope I’ve ever seen fail (assuming my Nikon is trashed). To bad because I actually love the scope, it’s clear, lets in tons of light, and has a perfect reticle for a muzzy/shotgun. At the price point they obviously had to of skimped out somewhere though and I believe the prostaff line was below the monarch line of optics. I think I got the scope as a deal because I got my son some prostaff binos off here and the dude threw in the scope for a little more..


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[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

Never had a scope fail but how would I know? It’s not loose at all.. would the reticle had shifted or something internally?

You either put a scope that has proven itself onto that gun or swap that scope onto a gun you know shoots well, if the muzzy starts shooting consistent and/or the known gun suddenly isn't grouping for crap you know the scope is broke.

Scope can fail where you obviously know they have, like the reticle shifting visibly but they can also fail in minor ways that throw shots around like a shot gun blast but nothing is rattling, etc.

When shopping in the future remember than a scope is for aiming and that is what it must do well, glass is a secondary factor and not the other way around. A pretty view that you can't hit due to a scope not aiming where you thought it was is utterly useless. Other than more clearly seeing yourself miss that is... Binoculars are for looking and that is where you prioritize glass.

I wouldn't buy any of the scopes you've mentioned by name so far but everyone gets into a pissing match over such things. I just want to hit what I'm aiming at, period.

 

[TonySkyline]

You either put a scope that has proven itself onto that gun or swap that scope onto a gun you know shoots well, if the muzzy starts shooting consistent and/or the known gun suddenly isn't grouping for crap you know the scope is broke.

Scope can fail where you obviously know they have, like the reticle shifting visibly but they can also fail in minor ways that throw shots around like a shot gun blast but nothing is rattling, etc.

When shopping in the future remember than a scope is for aiming and that is what it must do well, glass is a secondary factor and not the other way around. A pretty view that you can't hit due to a scope not aiming where you thought it was is utterly useless. Other than more clearly seeing yourself miss that is... Binoculars are for looking and that is where you prioritize glass.

I wouldn't buy any of the scopes you've mentioned by name so far but everyone gets into a pissing match over such things. I just want to hit what I'm aiming at, period.

What scope would you recommend? I can’t see myself buying a nightforce or anything crazy unless it was something like a paramount pro that I knew I’d be shooting 300+ yards with. Being my first season with a muzzy, maybe I don’t appreciate it enough yet but I’m sure I will if I see some bucks this holiday hunt/season. It’s definitely another weapon & advantage that a lot of hunters don’t utilize up here in the Northeast as much as say, the Midwest. I will say, if I drew a Kansas or Iowa, or any western state mulie/elk tag I probably would immediately go for the best optic I could afford and go beyond the “muzzleloader” directed scopes and get something like another razor LHT or VX3-HD at minimum. I just wasn’t thinking of dialing with a muzzy and figured most use a BDC for em


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[KChunter71]

I’d get a used swfa 3x9 or fixed power one. I have a muzzleloader scope on my encore, Leopold ultimate slam. The bdc’s are designed for two or 3 pellets. But I’m shooting bh209 much faster. It will shoot to 300yds at the range. I limit it to 200 yds hunting which I’m fine with. I’ve thought about selling the barrel and scope to move to a 45cal with a swfa dial scope