Calling on roofing/construction people

[rclouse79]

It is time for me to once again tap into the true power of Rokslide; advice on non-hunting related topics. I am painting my house with a roller this summer break. The painting itself has not been bad, but all the prep work and fun little surprises have been character building. I ripped off some trim that clearly had water damage. I had to keep tearing off more siding and the gutter and cut out the plywood that was rotten. I assume this issue arose from the jack-wagons that redid our roof a handful of years back. If it had been like this since the house was built in 99 I image the damage would have been much worse. It looks like the flashing doesn’t go down far enough, but I am just guessing. I want to fix the issue after I put it back together so it doesn’t happen again. Thanks for any advice from the people who know how it should be done.

 

[weaver]

That is by far the most common area for roofers to cut corners and not flash it correctly. 90% of the time it’s leaking in that spot on houses we replace siding on.
The bottom piece of step flashing has to kick out to divert water to the outside of the siding.
Should be able to find a YouTube video on kickout flashing.

 

[Geewhiz]

That last piece of step flashing was cut and bent to wrap around an outside corner and for some reason the roofers installed it there. Like @weaver said, put your last piece of step flashing on with a kick out, similar in concept to this.

 

[dylanvb]

Also looks like they tried to make those 2 pieces of step flash work where you want 3, they should be overlapping each other. In the picture it looks like they butt up to one another.

 

[SonnyDay]

Kickout flashing for sure per the diagram from @Geewhiz

Was there a gutter on that lower section? Having a gutter would help as well. End cap the gutter an inch from the siding surface, and then use the kickout flashing to divert water into it.

 

[rclouse79]

The gutter was butted up to the siding and I had to tear it off to cut all the rotten plywood out. Thanks for the advice everyone!

 

[rclouse79]

For a follow up question. I feel like I need to remove the last piece of flashing they mangled and replace it. There is one roofing nail attaching it to the roof. If I pull that out do I need to fill the hole with tar or anything?

 

[Strider]

If the hole is under the row of shingles above it would probably be fine. But some good roofing caulk never hurts.

While you’re replacing flashing. add another piece of step flashing if you weren’t going to already. One piece of step flashing per row of shingles. Make sure you lap the cut in your kick out piece correctly.

Also I would stick a knife or hammer claw in that stud pack to verify nothing in the framing is rotten.

 

[anonymous22]

For a follow up question. I feel like I need to remove the last piece of flashing they mangled and replace it. There is one roofing nail attaching it to the roof. If I pull that out do I need to fill the hole with tar or anything?

There’s a few ways to do step flashing. You can get some 8x8s at Home Depot but I usually make my own. Or you can use and cut the single pieces, which aren’t common out west to me.
Here’s how that single would look.



You don’t always need to do a kick out or diverter, but I would at least do an inch of overhang.

Nails, you want about 2 or more inches in away from the corner joint. Despite the picture below saying 1 inch. You can add a bead of mastic if you want which can help seal the shingle. Over lapping water right. So start top to bottom.

Another thing to do is if you’re putting siding back, is the top of the step flashing, counter flash it. Here’s an example of 8x8 and feel free to mastic anywhere where wind driven rain could happen or snow seep.