Buy Once Cry Once Reloading Equipment

[BucksNDucks]

Magneto V3

 

[z987k]

I really like the co-ax press but skip the frankford arsenal. It's a POS.

 

[gtriple]

This is easy then. I’d skip the turret press and spend the money elsewhere for now…

-Good calipers and comparators. Mitutoyo and SAC but for less Hornady comparators do.
-MEC marksman, good press, decent price
-Redding competition shell holder sets of area 419 shell holder set, these allow contact with the die all the time which is needed for consistent shoulder bump
-good dies, SAC if they make them for what you have. Even if they don’t, use their bushings in competitors products.
-Dry tumbler, no need to spend a lot here
-giraud or Henderson 3 way trimmer. This does three things at once and will save a boat load of time
-Auto trickler, go preorder one now from his site, no money down, they are way out! In the mean time grab a chargemaster lite or similar to get your going.
-other odds and ends, funnels, loading blocks and stuff, nice stuff is nice but cheap works too
-AMP annealer, easy and fast. Consistent tension and shoulder bump throughout

I reccomend listening to Avery adventures podcast with unknown munitions, I and a lot of the competitive shooters I know load very similar.

I appreciate the time you put into this. I've just pre-ordered the V4 auto trickler with FX120i combo.

If you wouldn't mind, what would change on this list be if the budget were higher?

Which Mitutoyo calipers are recommended? there's a lot of options

 

[Lawnboi]

I appreciate the time you put into this. I've just pre-ordered the V4 auto trickler with FX120i combo.

If you wouldn't mind, what would change on this list be if the budget were higher?

Which Mitutoyo calipers are recommended? there's a lot of options

I’d maybe buy a turret press but would probably go area 419 and not Redding, 2 powder scales, amp mate for automated annealing. Beyond that brass, bullets and powder.

I forgot to mention I seat bullets on an arbor press with wilson dies, and also a set of carbide mandrels for setting neck tension and uniforming is used for non SAC sizing dies. If that makes sense.

The above list not only is faster but better in terms of consistency. I started with the manual stuff and if your reloading for matches time will be a factor. I have more time than money for equipment but I dread sitting down and loading 300 rounds for a big match.

Mitutoyo AOS Digimatic 0-6" - Unknown Munitions

This is the caliper we use and love, it is the most important tool in your reloading room! Guaranteed to be authentic. Mitutoyo AOS Absolute Digimatic Caliper 0-6″ • The ABS (absolute) scale requires no origin setting after power-on and also has no limit to response speed. The slider...

www.unknownmunitions.com

These calipers

 

[Hondo64d]

I'm about to get into reloading and would like some help figuring out what equipment to buy. I am a strict believer in Buy Once Cry Once and I hate wasting time thinking about upgrading.

Application:
I'll mainly be reloading for hunting rifles, but wouldn't mine churning out a few hundred rounds of 223 or 308. I don't shoot matches yet but plan to next year.

Forster Coax and MEC Marksman presses are both outstanding, as is the RCBS bench mounted priming tool.

John

 

[gtriple]

@Lawnboi, quick question... I'm about to pick up the SAC Modular Headspace Comparator kit and wondering which bullet inserts I'll need. I'll be reloading 6.5 CM, 6.5 PRC, 308, and 300 PRC with either ELD-X bullets or Hammer Hunters.

Is the "solid bullet" insert needed for the Hammer bullets?

Do I need the "30 cal straight" for any reason?

 

[Lawnboi]

@Lawnboi, quick question... I'm about to pick up the SAC Modular Headspace Comparator kit and wondering which bullet inserts I'll need. I'll be reloading 6.5 CM, 6.5 PRC, 308, and 300 PRC with either ELD-X bullets or Hammer Hunters.

Is the "solid bullet" insert needed for the Hammer bullets?

Do I need the "30 cal straight" for any reason?

Your best bet is to email SAC with what you have and they will tell you exactly what you need. They have been great about getting back to me.

I only have the standard bullet option and am still building from my original Hornady set.

 

[Torque]

I have reloaded for close to 20 years and this is what I wish I would have done/known:
1. Do not buy a kit. Half the things in the kit will just end up in a cabinet, unused.
2. Buy a cheap single stage press and have it dedicated solely to decapping (think Lee single stage or Lyman single stage. I got a Lyman brass smith ideal press for $50 new at Christmas last year). This keeps your main press clean and smooth. I highly recommend the Mighty Armory Universal decapping die. HIGHLY!
3. If you are interested in making precision brass, it is best to buy good brass to begin with. Buy a Redding Body die or a Forster FL die (remove the decapping rod) , a neck die and expand the neck with a mandrel die to your desired tension.
4. MEC Marksman and Forster Co-Ax presses are the bee's knees. If you want to lay out the dough, the Turban Prazipress is top notch.
5. The Primal Rights priming tool is awesome. The Frankfort Arsenal platinum hand held is also nice, but heavy.
6. Get a good automatic powder dispenser, and ALWAYS calibrate it before using it each time.
7. Get a good brass prep station. I use the Lyman and have been tickled pink with it. Especially using Lee case length gauges on it to trim my brass to size. It make the whole process faster and easier on the hands.
8. Get a good set of Mitutoyo calipers.
9. If you are going to reload handgun ammunition, get a turret or a progressive press. It will save you from getting burned out from using a single stage to make large quantities.
10. Don't skimp on your bench top. Get a good hardwood top that can take the stresses of the press being worked without shifting or bending.

When I began, I went with what ever was cheapest, and honestly made good ammunition with it. IMO there aren't really any "Bad" die makers. There are those that are outstanding (Forester, Mighty Armory) but most die makers all make serviceable dies. So, don't be afraid to try the cheaper makers out. The Lee collet neck die is a great die.

 

[kthomas]

Here is my list if you want to do the "cry once buy once" for reloading:

- Quality press: I use Forster Co-ax, it's a very popular press. Inline Fabrication makes some upgrades for them as well if you want to dress it up. You can get the Area 419 press, it has some great design features, but it won't produce better ammo than the Forster.
- Quality Dies: I like Whidden, especially the "click adjustable" FL sizing dies. Whidden's come with comparators, which is nice. SAC has some badass dies that are worth a look.
- Quality Annealer: I use the AMP press. Probably the best out there. If you really want to pimp it out, pair it with the AMP-Mate.
- Quality Trimmer: I use Giraud, but people also seem to be very happy with the Henderson trimmer. A good hack to use with the Giraud if you reload for multiple cartridges is to use locking die rings for the case holders.
- Quality Powder Thrower: The top dog is the Prometheus thrower. I use an Autotrickler V2 w/FX-120i scale, though the V4 looks like a great upgrade. The Autotricklers are ~90+% of the performance of the Prometheus at a fraction of the cost.
- Good Primer Seater: Hand priming sucks. If you can afford it, the CPS competition primer seater is the tits.
- Good set of micrometers: I use digital Mitutoyo's.
- Misc: Vibratory tumbler w/rice for tumbling (no need to splurge here), reloading blocks (many to choose from, they all do the same thing), anti-static powder funnel, case lube/wax, tweezers (handling stray kernels of powder), calibration weight for scales.

 

[jsthntn247]

Prometheus, hydro press, Amp Annealer, IDOD turner.

 

[fisherman983]

Zero press, v4 auto trickler, henderson trimmer, primal rights seater, Amp annealer


Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

[czgunner]

I've gone through 3 RCBS chargemaster dispensers. They all had the keyboard die. I've changed over to the RCBS chargemaster light and haven't had any issues.

 

[unclericco]

I only adjust the die once, then lock it down. Doesn’t take long to screw oneto the lock ring into a press.

I use a Coax press and universal de-capping die, (changing the dies is as fast as grabbing a die and sliding it into the press. Like 2-3 seconds) Hornady case prep center and a Lyman case trim express. I handle the brass twice and it's pretty fast IMO. I personally don't see the need for turret press

 

[tops911]

Co-Ax press and LE Wilson case trimmer.

 

[6tyfive]

Here is my list if you want to do the "cry once buy once" for reloading:

- Quality press: I use Forster Co-ax, it's a very popular press. Inline Fabrication makes some upgrades for them as well if you want to dress it up. You can get the Area 419 press, it has some great design features, but it won't produce better ammo than the Forster.
- Quality Dies: I like Whidden, especially the "click adjustable" FL sizing dies. Whidden's come with comparators, which is nice. SAC has some badass dies that are worth a look.
- Quality Annealer: I use the AMP press. Probably the best out there. If you really want to pimp it out, pair it with the AMP-Mate.
- Quality Trimmer: I use Giraud, but people also seem to be very happy with the Henderson trimmer. A good hack to use with the Giraud if you reload for multiple cartridges is to use locking die rings for the case holders.
- Quality Powder Thrower: The top dog is the Prometheus thrower. I use an Autotrickler V2 w/FX-120i scale, though the V4 looks like a great upgrade. The Autotricklers are ~90+% of the performance of the Prometheus at a fraction of the cost.
- Good Primer Seater: Hand priming sucks. If you can afford it, the CPS competition primer seater is the tits.
- Good set of micrometers: I use digital Mitutoyo's.
- Misc: Vibratory tumbler w/rice for tumbling (no need to splurge here), reloading blocks (many to choose from, they all do the same thing), anti-static powder funnel, case lube/wax, tweezers (handling stray kernels of powder), calibration weight for scales.

Have you seen the Ingenuity Precision Trickler for the autotrickler, i think its a good upgrade for them.

 

[kthomas]

Have you seen the Ingenuity Precision Trickler for the autotrickler, i think its a good upgrade for them.

I actually just ordered one not too long ago - waiting for it to be ready.

I love my autotrickler, but the trickler portion is a definite weak link. I think the IP trickler will really make that system more optimal. I also went and purchased a V3 board for my V2 Autotrickler.

 

[6tyfive]

I actually just ordered one not too long ago - waiting for it to be ready.

I love my autotrickler, but the trickler portion is a definite weak link. I think the IP trickler will really make that system more optimal. I also went and purchased a V3 board for my V2 Autotrickler.

I think mine is the V3, but I really like the IP upgrade. The only thing I'm not thrilled about is I have ran the IP out of powder. They recommend only putting like 120gn of powder in the cup. But it's still worth the change.

 

[kthomas]

I think mine is the V3, but I really like the IP upgrade. The only thing I'm not thrilled about is I have ran the IP out of powder. They recommend only putting like 120gn of powder in the cup. But it's still worth the change.

That's good to know. Will have to be something to keep on top of when reloading for my .300NM.

I also don't like how its two separate companies, one of which has no desire to acknowledge or support the other (Adam @ Autotrickler). So getting help with any issues could be a problem.

 

[6tyfive]

That's good to know. Will have to be something to keep on top of when reloading for my .300NM.

I also don't like how its two separate companies, one of which has no desire to acknowledge or support the other (Adam @ Autotrickler). So getting help with any issues could be a problem.

I watched all the videos that IP put out. They show you to set the main drop about a grain shy. So the cup should be able to handle 100 rounds. But I think I was setting mine closer to 1.5gn shy. I felt I got a better drop. So far I haven't had any issues with either. Something to get used to is that if you turn the manual shaft it starts to drop kernels. Where the trickler one I would spin and sometimes get a blob out. I plan to fire it up this weekend and load up some test rounds for 2 rifles.

 

[83cj-7]

A lot of good stuff listed here but I haven’t seen anything for neck turning. The 21st century neck turning lathe was a huge investment to get everything needed but, together with annealing, made the biggest difference in reloading consistency. Really amazing to see a ES or SD of 0 on a chronograph!