Budget rifle with best stock?

[22lr]

The issue is how subjective this subject is. For me, I dont think I've ever felt a stock I like more than the Hogue overmolds. They are not very lightweight, they leave a bit to be desired in features, but dang I really like them for what they are. To me, other stocks may be better for certain applications, but I live the overall feel and comfort of the overmolds! They are not for every application though.

 

[False_Cast]

They’re not stiff, which objectively hinders precision when shooting from field positions and varying rests.

 

[ramsdude47]

Stiffness and performance is definitely the primary goal, with good looks being a secondary goal. Most of the high quality stocks mentioned do look great, so that's awesome! I'm less concerned about weight than a lot of folks are, to my own detriment I suppose.

I greatly appreciate the recommendations, I will have to get my hands on a few Bergara's and Tikka's. The handful of Vanguards are still on my mind as well.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

The Tikka stocks work fine for me, I’ve learned to love the Tupperware stocks since I moved to AK.

 

[brockel]

How about a tikka and a couple cans of spray paint and a sponge to make it not a plain synthetic stock

 

[sndmn11]

Stiffness and performance is definitely the primary goal, with good looks being a secondary goal.

Vanguard Wilderness or Backcountry have full length AL blocks. I don't think you can find structurally "better" in a regular guy's production class rifle.

 

[Shooter71]

The Tikka stocks are actually pretty good. They’re surprisingly stiff and weigh about the same as a McMillan Edge.

 

[bird35]

If going strictly on stock the Remington 700 long range does have a pretty nice stock. I have one in 7mm rem mag and the stock is my favorite part about it.

 

[Castle Rock]

 

[alexanderg23]

Tikka or Sauer probably others but those for the bill.

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

Just buy a T3X. They are stupidly accurate and reliable rifles for the price point. They also have one of the most reliable and crisp triggers you can get from a factory rifle.

Upgrade the stock to something you really like
since that seems to be a key feature for you. Adjust that trigger spring down and have fun laughing at how well the rifle shoots and functions every time.

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

The Tikka stocks are actually pretty good. They’re surprisingly stiff and weigh about the same as a McMillan Edge.

McMillan Edge Tikka stock is not only lighter than factory but it comes pillar bedded and with a recoil lug bedded in for the factory barreled action.

It’s a huge improvement in accuracy and form/function and definitely takes a factory Tikka to the next level of bolt gun. Especially when you pair it with a high end bottom metal and upgraded trigger spring.

 

[False_Cast]

McMillan Edge Tikka stock is not only lighter than factory but it comes pillar bedded and with a recoil lug bedded in for the factory barreled action.

It’s a huge improvement in accuracy and form/function and definitely takes a factory Tikka to the next level of bolt gun. Especially when you pair it with a high end bottom metal and upgraded trigger spring.

How much weight difference on your scale? If I remember right, you’re only saving 3-4 ounces with the Edge. Factory T3x stock with lug is going to be 29-30oz range, right? And I’d prefer to have the lug bedded to my specific receiver as depth on that thing could be critical, though Tikka’s tolerances are probably tight enough to get you close.

Even as a McMillan fan myself, I’m interested to hear about this “huge improvement” in accuracy as compared to a correctly assembled factory T3x...

The decent aftermarket trigger spring, I can understand but I’ll never get the “upgrade” to a metal bottom metal/triggerguard piece (if not going aics and sticking with factory mags). Just adds weight.

 

[Castle Rock]

It’s a huge improvement in accuracy and form/function and definitely takes a factory Tikka to the next level of bolt gun. Especially when you pair it with a high end bottom metal and upgraded trigger spring.

I don’t think there is really any advantage with any of those things for a hunting rifle

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

How much weight difference on your scale? If I remember right, you’re only saving 3-4 ounces with the Edge. Factory T3x stock with lug is going to be 29-30oz range, right? And I’d prefer to have the lug bedded to my specific receiver as depth on that thing could be critical, though Tikka’s tolerances are probably tight enough to get you close.

Even as a McMillan fan myself, I’m interested to hear about this “huge improvement” in accuracy as compared to a correctly assembled factory T3x...

The decent aftermarket trigger spring, I can understand but I’ll never get the “upgrade” to a metal bottom metal/triggerguard piece (if not going aics and sticking with factory mags). Just adds weight.

Don’t get me wrong factory T3Xs shoot great. Nobody is arguing that. The huge improvement has more to do with a stock that is customized to your shooting ergonomics. Proper length of pull, proper cheek rest height and angle, and just being more comfortable and repeatable behind your rifle.

We’ve found in instructing shooters of all different levels that a properly fitted rifle with somebody who is comfortable behind it will always out shoot guys with “custom” rigs that aren’t even fitted to them properly.

The pillar bedding and lug, combined with the edge being graphite also helps with accuracy and repeatability. Stiffness and strength=repeatability, you don’t achieve the same level with cheap plastic and no proper bedding. Not only that aftermarket stocks are hand made to exact tolerances for the barreled action they are supporting. Saying a factory plastic stock with terrible ergos churned out by the 10s of thousands has better “tolerances” is questionable to me. I can only go off what I see in the field for me personally.

For weight my McMillan stock is 24 oz on my scale. The factory is 29 oz on my scale.

The bottom plastic and factory plastic mag combined are 3 ounces lighter than my bottom metal and metal magazine. The factory bottom plastic is a weak point in an otherwise pretty bulletproof factory rifle. Take it off sometime and see how easy you can bend and flex it. There’s a reason the Sako versions of their rifles have always used aluminum for the bottom metal. I also like to up the specs on the torque settings for the action screws and on the Tikkas after some field testing. I feel very comfortable doing this with the aftermarket bottom metal. I’ve heard of guys doing this with the factory plastic too but I wouldn’t do it personally. That’s not to say that the factory bottom piece doesn’t function for the majority of shooters and hunters. There are just “better” options out there for guys who shoot as much as I do every year. All subjective stuff and has to do with the use case.

The factory mags do work fine. I prefer the feel of the feeding and cycling on the mountain tactical magazine over the factory plastic. Just a preference. I also like the idea of a metal magazine since they’ve treated me so well in my Sakos over the last 20 years of shooting.

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

I don’t think there is really any advantage with any of those things for a hunting rifle

You keep on doing whatever works well for you! That’s all you can go off of until you field test and verify.

 

[Castle Rock]

Been there, done that

 

[Shooter71]

Don’t get me wrong factory T3Xs shoot great. Nobody is arguing that. The huge improvement has more to do with a stock that is customized to your shooting ergonomics. Proper length of pull, proper cheek rest height and angle, and just being more comfortable and repeatable behind your rifle.

We’ve found in instructing shooters of all different levels that a properly fitted rifle with somebody who is comfortable behind it will always out shoot guys with “custom” rigs that aren’t even fitted to them properly.

The pillar bedding and lug, combined with the edge being graphite also helps with accuracy and repeatability. Stiffness and strength=repeatability, you don’t achieve the same level with cheap plastic and no proper bedding. Not only that aftermarket stocks are hand made to exact tolerances for the barreled action they are supporting. Saying a factory plastic stock with terrible ergos churned out by the 10s of thousands has better “tolerances” is questionable to me. I can only go off what I see in the field for me personally.

For weight my McMillan stock is 24 oz on my scale. The factory is 29 oz on my scale.

The bottom plastic and factory plastic mag combined are 3 ounces lighter than my bottom metal and metal magazine. The factory bottom plastic is a weak point in an otherwise pretty bulletproof factory rifle. Take it off sometime and see how easy you can bend and flex it. There’s a reason the Sako versions of their rifles have always used aluminum for the bottom metal. I also like to up the specs on the torque settings for the action screws and on the Tikkas after some field testing. I feel very comfortable doing this with the aftermarket bottom metal. I’ve heard of guys doing this with the factory plastic too but I wouldn’t do it personally. That’s not to say that the factory bottom piece doesn’t function for the majority of shooters and hunters. There are just “better” options out there for guys who shoot as much as I do every year. All subjective stuff and has to do with the use case.

The factory mags do work fine. I prefer the feel of the feeding and cycling on the mountain tactical magazine over the factory plastic. Just a preference. I also like the idea of a metal magazine since they’ve treated me so well in my Sakos over the last 20 years of shooting.

Thanks for the info! Sorry, I thought he was asking about “Budget rifle with best stock”.

 

[khuber84]

I'd have to say a bergara wilderness terrain. It's an adjustable grayboe stock. For budget rifle that's pretty solid option.

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

Thanks for the info! Sorry, I thought he was asking about “Budget rifle with best stock”.

A $500 rifle with a $500 stock fits into his proposed budget in his original post.