"Broadheads... What's YOUR Choice"?

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For those of you who shoot 150gr+, what is your aiming method? Do you have a spot on distance? How does your arrow flight get affected at longer distances? I have often wanted to go up but I am hesitant that I will have to relearn how to shoot. Am I wrong in this theory?
 
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Ryan K Sanpei
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For those of you who shoot 150gr+, what is your aiming method? Do you have a spot on distance? How does your arrow flight get affected at longer distances? I have often wanted to go up but I am hesitant that I will have to relearn how to shoot. Am I wrong in this theory?

In my experience and for how I tune, a 500gr arrow is a 500gr arrow (again if tuned well) whether it be with a lower gpi shaft and a heavy tip or a heavier gpi shaft and a lighter tip. For me, I jut prefer a carbon shaft and heavier tip (higher FOC). For my hunting applications, I've gotten better penetration, a more "forgiving" arrow (poor release), and it seems to buck the wind more.
 
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I may have to rethink my tuning because regardless of the tip weight, I can't get good flight out of light arrows with a heavy FOC.
 

Steve O

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Correctamundo...no matter what type of bow you shoot, if your broadheads do not fly to the same spot you are not tuned properly. Thus the popularity of mechanicals...one does not need to spend the time to tune.

2 blades--Abowyers all the way.

3 blades--VPA, Woodsman Elite, original Snuffers and Woodsman have never let me down.

You keep coming up with great stuff Ryan. Keep it up!
 

Steve O

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Hey Justin, we were typing at the same time. I've helped a lot of guys tune all kinds of bows. If I can help in some way send me a PM.
 
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Ryan K Sanpei
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Hey Justin, we were typing at the same time. I've helped a lot of guys tune all kinds of bows. If I can help in some way send me a PM.

Justin, you may want to take him up on that offer. Steve's been a GURU at this long before I could even shoot straight!!!
 
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I went back and looked and the problem was the arrows, they were underspined from the start, not just light. It makes sense now.
 
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Primarily VPA's for 3 blade heads. Trying to decide between the 1 1/4 or standard 1 1/8 heads.

For 2 blade heads going to check out the RMSG Cutthroat head. Single bevel machined head (same as VPA)

Have never tried a 4 blade, if those Muzzy Phantom's or Palmer heads were heavier I would consider them as well
 
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Ryan K Sanpei
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Primarily VPA's for 3 blade heads. Trying to decide between the 1 1/4 or standard 1 1/8 heads.

For 2 blade heads going to check out the RMSG Cutthroat head. Single bevel machined head (same as VPA)

Have never tried a 4 blade, if those Muzzy Phantom's or Palmer heads were heavier I would consider them as well

That Cutthroat definitely looks like a great two blade!

With my rig and for the animals I pursue, those large 3 blades have worked really well for me.
 
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Good topic!

I've used 5-6 different broadheads out of my recurves in the last 12 years or so and had mixed results.

But three years ago I truly concentrated on my arrow tuning and picked up a 3 pack of VPA 3-blade heads. Since then I've hit the animals where I wanted to hit them (because of the arrow tuning) and have killed 20 or so deer with the 3-blade VPA broadheads. Yes, they are expensive at $40 or so for a 3 pack but I haven't lost one yet and that means that those three heads have take on average 6 deer each. Most have been pass throughs and all of the heads have been easy to resharpen.

This past fall I drew a rare wild Buffalo tag and bought the 2-blade VPA broadhead for the hunt. Maybe I'm anal (my friends call me "detail-oriented") but I spent over an hour on each one sharpening each head to get them just right. I shot a buffalo quartering away and buried the arrow to the fletching. It ran 100 yards and collapsed.

The key to choosing 2 blades versus 3 blades is the compromise between cutting surface and penetration. 3 blades will generally leave a heavier blood trail. 2 blades will generally penetrate deeper. I use a 55# bow and shoot a 620 grain arrow that is very well tuned. I prefer a 2 blade for truly big game (buffalo or moose) and a 3 blade for everything else (deer, elk, etc).

Your mileage may vary :cool:
 
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A large solid 2 blade with a break away bleeder is extremely hard to beat for trad shooters and compound shooters alike. The Montana based Simmons broadhead company makes some of the best. The are unparrelleled in size, really strong and capable of slicing through elk shoulder blades and continuing all the way through. I wouldn't be afraid to say they would shoot through an elk lengthwise. Got complete passthroughs on both my elk.
 

Beendare

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So since this thread started Ive changed over to 150gr VPAs both 2 and 3 blades as they both tune in my compound and stick- cant beat that. Awesome heads.
I just may use up the 140gr Trailmakers I got from a buddy on my upcoming whitetail hunt.

Yeah, Im all over the place.....
 

smoke

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2-blade Magnus or Zwickey with a woodie weight. Spoke to a guide in Alberta last week who has killed a ton of moose with a magnus stinger.
 

RCL

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Been using Ribtek and Ace two blades for a lot of years with no complaints.
 
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Simmons for me! I like the Tigershark. The solid fixed with breakaway bleeder is the best design for any type hit and the 1 9/16 size makes it good on poor shots. Penetration is better with concave design so it outperforms in that category as well. Rockwell 49 hardness is as close to perfect as any other head and the production process does not alter that. Just a perfect head, and I have tried just about all of them.
 

Trial153

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I been shooting Soilds for damn near everything I've the last 5 years. That said I also keep three bladed VPAs on hand as well as Slick Trick mags. The only mechanical head I use even semi regularly at this point is original rockert steelhead 125's
All that aside if was forced to pick one head it would be Solids
 
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