broadhead tuning help

[gibby97]

so i've been researching this and trying to tune my broadheads but am having trouble. So i'm shooting Black Hornet Stingers in 125gr with a 340 arrow at 30.5" bare shaft with a 65 lb pull. i have done paper tune and walk back tune and am trying to get to the next level.

my BH is hitting 4" left of my FP so i moved my rest to the right. Shot again and still 4" left of my FP only difference is both arrows moved right of where i hit previously. moved the rest again and got the same result. so i went back to my starting point and moved my rest to the left 1/16" this time. BH hit 4" left of the FP again only to the left of my original starting point.

what am i missing or what is causing the broadhead not to tune to my FP?

 

[Ucsdryder]

What bow? Any chance you have a 100gr head laying around? If so, try that.

 

[bjfoxhoven]

Are you shooting the broadhead on the bare shaft? If so I wouldn’t do that, only shoot broadheads with fletched shafts. If broadhead hits left of field point move the rest to the left to mitigate that.

 

[Billy Goat]

Be helpful to know more, mainly what bow, and if you can access a press.

I would also check your vane clearance.

Right or left-handed shooter?

Have you tried swapping the arrow that the broadhead is on?

 

[gibby97]

Be helpful to know more, mainly what bow, and if you can access a press.

I would also check your vane clearance.

Right or left-handed shooter?

Have you tried swapping the arrow that the broadhead is on?

Bow tech Insanity right handed bow. Don’t have access to a press other than the local bow shop.

in checking vane clearance what against?

Guess there a lot of confusion as too which way to move your rest. Most of the things I read said follow your FP and then a few others say to follow your BH either way it made no difference to bring them closer together.

im wondering more about total arrow weight or possibly too much or too little poundage?

 

[Billy Goat]

Bow tech Insanity right handed bow. Don’t have access to a press other than the local bow shop.

in checking vane clearance what against?

Guess there a lot of confusion as too which way to move your rest. Most of the things I read said follow your FP and then a few others say to follow your BH either way it made no difference to bring them closer together.

im wondering more about total arrow weight or possibly too much or too little poundage?

With that bow I'd set your center shot and yoke tune. The fact that you don't have a press makes that hard.

I suspect you need a little more spine. You can try lighter (100 grain) broadheads and see if that helps. If it doesn't I would start taking poundage out of the bow. Normally a weak arrow would cause a right impact with your broadheads with a right handed shooter, but looking at your specs I suspect you are underspined.

The contact issue could be with your vanes making contact on your cables or your rest as the arrow is leaving.

Try to make sure you can duplicate your results with different arrows, swapping around your broadhead and field points.

 

[Skerhunter]

Assuming you have a ~20gr insert, with the 125 gr head (145 total) and 30.5" arrow I would say you could be underspined. My chart says (with 150gr up front) 30"+ over 60 lbs use a 260/300 spine, hopefully someone else can confirm.

Also have you earned how to yoke tune that bow?

 

[gibby97]

With that bow I'd set your center shot and yoke tune. The fact that you don't have a press makes that hard.

I suspect you need a little more spine. You can try lighter (100 grain) broadheads and see if that helps. If it doesn't I would start taking poundage out of the bow. Normally a weak arrow would cause a right impact with your broadheads with a right handed shooter, but looking at your specs I suspect you are underspined.

The contact issue could be with your vanes making contact on your cables or your rest as the arrow is leaving.

Try to make sure you can duplicate your results with different arrows, swapping around your broadhead and field points.

So I switched the Bh to another arrow and duplicated the same result the only thing I haven’t done yet is try a different BH. would 2 or 3 lbs less pull make that much difference or would I be better off going to a stiffer arrow or to 100 gr heads? I;m preparing for an elk hunt this fall if this helps in the decision making process.

 

[bjfoxhoven]

Check out this video. Explains it well. You aren’t the only one, I’ve done it backwards before too.

What is your draw length? If you have room you could cut the arrows down a bit and get the ones refletched you need too. Im guessing different arrows may vary, but I always heard around 1” cut off would equate to 25gr drop up front, dynamic spine wise.

 

[Billy Goat]

So I switched the Bh to another arrow and duplicated the same result the only thing I haven’t done yet is try a different BH. would 2 or 3 lbs less pull make that much difference or would I be better off going to a stiffer arrow or to 100 gr heads? I;m preparing for an elk hunt this fall if this helps in the decision making process.

I think you need 300 spine for that setup. What is your draw length?

Edit- I would work to verify that it is a spine issue. It seems to me like you need 300's. But I would back off the poundage to see if it fixes it. If you back off several turns and they still don't come together then it's something else.

 

[rj2]

play with your grip, try a little more or less contact area/pressure, etc. a little bit of torque will always magnify on the broadheads

 

[ahlgringo]

I would agree its probably a spine issue- but, when you say you are moving the rest- what does that mean? 1/8", 1/16", 1/32"? as you probably are aware- VERY small rest movements can cause dramatic changes. I usually start with 1/32" and go in those increments. With your bow though, the answer is probably spine, and if its not- the proper way to fix it is with yolk tuning.

 

[rj2]

try 60lbs with 100gr head to test spine theory, but usually too stiff is broadheads hitting left.

 

[Ucsdryder]

Put center shot back to where it’s supposed to be. Turn your bow down 3-4 full turns, keep top and bottom the same. Then see what happens.

the other option is yoke tuning. It requires a press but it’ll take 5 minutes to get that bad boy shooting.

 

[D.Rose]

If you move your rest and your broadhead impact isn't changing I'd start looking for a couple different things. Start with the simple things before you start changing arrows and poundage. First of all make sure you have proper nock fit. Not just when the bow is at rest but at full draw. Excessive nock pinch at full draw can be hard to identify and easily over looked.

Next check d loop length and your release. If you are using a handheld release when you turn your hand to anchor you can torque the loop and put weird pressure on your nock. I'd recommend trying a few different releases just to see if how it changed your impact. That will give you a quick idea of whats going on.

Third thing will be facial pressure or vane contact. Foot powder spray on your rest and vanes is invaluable. With this you will be able to identify whats happening in one shot. Don't just assume it's your bow right away. If you're moving your rest and not seeing any changes in broadhead impact then you have other issues. I know people go crazy over having the perfect spined arrow but in most cases you can make anything shoot unless its just way way to weak. Spine helps but it's not the cure all. You can have a perfectly spined arrow and still have the same issues you are experiencing. Start with the small easy stuff and work your way up. You will save yourself a massive headache more times than not.

Last thing is grip. Try gripping the bow different ways and even torque the riser left one shot and right the next. This will give you a very real sense of just how finicky broadhead tuning really is. Not sure any of this will help you but it's a good place to start. If you are a super consistent shooter you can by all means tune the bow to fit how you shoot and it will work great for you. But in most cases I find that it is something small and minimal keeping people from having great broadhead flight.

 

[gibby97]

from ready through most posts maybe i wasn't real clear on my exact problem.

so my first shot was with FP dead center and BH was 4" left. made an adjustment to the rest (moved right 1/16). 2nd shot with FP was 4" to right of center and BH was center made another adjustment to the rest (moved right 1/16). 3rd shot FP almost went off the target and the BH hit 4" left of the FP.

my shots are all consistent but the arrows aren't coming together, up and down with fp and bh are same. i have also noticed a little tail whip from time to time.

 

[Brendan]

from ready through most posts maybe i wasn't real clear on my exact problem.

so my first shot was with FP dead center and BH was 4" left. made an adjustment to the rest (moved right 1/16). 2nd shot with FP was 4" to right of center and BH was center made another adjustment to the rest (moved right 1/16). 3rd shot FP almost went off the target and the BH hit 4" left of the FP.

my shots are all consistent but the arrows aren't coming together, up and down with fp and bh are same. i have also noticed a little tail whip from time to time.

You're moving your rest the wrong direction. You need to move it left, not right.

I would re-set bow to appropriate centershot and test from there, but you've gotten a bunch of other things to look at too: Potential weak spine, check for fletching contact, yoke tuning better than rest movements, etc.

 

[fatlander]

With a Bowtech, you need to set the rest to center shot and yoke tune.


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[5MilesBack]

from ready through most posts maybe i wasn't real clear on my exact problem.

We understood your original post. But what is your draw length? 30.5" arrow is a long arrow. I shoot 32 1/2" draw and my arrows are only 30". Your draw length could be way off as well.

 

[gibby97]

We understood your original post. But what is your draw length? 30.5" arrow is a long arrow. I shoot 32 1/2" draw and my arrows are only 30". Your draw length could be way off as well.

not sure on draw length but the arrow is approx a 1/2" past the front of the riser if that makes sense.