Bow paper tuned by pro shop but I inconsistently tear nock left

[Wodez]

Hey archers
I have been having a few issues with my Hoyt defiant. The latest issue is not the bow but me. I just had it paper tuned at the shop and I shot it myself at the shop and shot 1 bullet hole and 2 were half inch left tears.
I went home and did some more paper tuning and again I seem to shoot a few very close to bullet holes but majority are left tears. I understand the shop may not have it tuned 100% for me and a walk back tune should be done next. Should I be able to shoot bullet holes most of the time with occasional small tears? does everyone shoot 5-10 and have quarter inch tears in all directions so you just take an average. My main question is what am I doing to cause the inconsistency (nock tear left) And how do I make it better.

I recently installed a diy torque gauge. The guy at the shot said I should not be manipulating the bow to line it up at full draw. He said it will cause inconsistent grip pressure and I’m better off shooting it with a natural grip and a little torque.
I have been trying to use the torque gauge as a guide to find a grip and draw process that ends up with minimal torque at full draw but i have noticed it is pretty inconsistent.
Im not sure if the torque gauge is set up correctly. I used a YouTube video of how to allign the square up gauge which explained to hold the bow out without drawing and align the gauge a little right when sighting through the string and sight pins.

There’s a few issues there that are mostly bad form but I am hopping someone can give me some tips that might help.

 

[madkaw284]

If it’s just small tears with the occasional bullet hole then it’s most likely something you’re doing with grip or inconsistent anchoring or possibly even trigger punching.
How long have you been doing archery? What’s your draw length and weight and arrow spine?

You could bump the rest to the right but I don’t think that it would do any good at the moment. Not familiar with a grip gauge so I’ll have to google that one.

Overall sounds like your pretty close, just need to work on you a bit.

 

[targetpanic]

Your tear NEEDS to be consistent. If it is not consistent it is being caused by either changing grip torque (most likely), facial contact, poor release or fletching contact (fletching contact tends to give a consistent tear though so this one can almost be ruled out).

 

[Billy Goat]

Is it the same arrow? Or are you tuning with a few different arrows?

If same arrow it shouldn't be fletching contact, if different arrows it could be fletching or even a spine consistency issue.

Likely it's you. Grip, anchor, or even draw arm position.

 

[307]

Facial pressure

 

[fatlander]

It could be a medley of issues.

1 arrow may need to be nock tuned
It may be fletching contact
It may be that you’re not pulling consistently into the wall
It may be different grip pressure

I never move the rest on a Hoyt. That’s what the yokes are for. Set the center shot down the middle and yoke tune from there. Moving the rest will just have you chasing your tail.

Also, paper tuning is really only an initial step to get you in the ball park. Bareshafts at 20 and then broadheads are the true test. I haven’t shot a bow through paper in the past 10 years. I start close with bareshafts and back my way up to 20 yards. Once that’s good I just have to confirm with broadheads.


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[cuttiebrownbow]

Inconsistent grip, grip pressure, bow arm elbow softness, facial pressure and draw arm elbow position can all do that. You need to check for fletching contact as well.

Precision Archery just posted a great video on their YouTube channel on proper grip.

Dudley’s school of nock would probably help you be more consistent as well


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[406unltd]

Just because someone else got the bow to shoot through paper good doesn’t mean it will for you due to the differences between how I shoot the bow vs you. It is usually a great place to start from though. When I felt with this I still needed to Broadhead tune anyhow and resulted in me moving my rest. Now when I pick it up they let me do the final paper tune because they know we won’t be there all day chasing our tail because I can shoot consistently. Do your own paper like you do then screw on the Broadhead make any minor adjust to rest then your all done.

 

[Wodez]

Shooting 4arrows through paper to get an average. I will check if it is only certain arrows doing certain things.
I believe it is not fletching contact but I will double check.
As I thought it is just me and my form.
is it best to keep shooting at a paper tune set up and adjusting one thing at a time(grip,elbow ect) until I find a more consistent tear? And how consistent should it be? 10 shots within quarter inch from bullet holes but mostly bullet holes? I have been shooting a compound for 5 years but only hunting no compilations.
Bow is 70 pound with 300 spine arrows

 

[Billy Goat]

Number your arrows, label each hole with the arrow number. See if it's individual arrows or happening at random

 

[Zac]

If you are shooting a wrap and roll arrow shaft then you will probably need to nock tune each shaft. If you are shooting fletch then each vane is a position. I shoot every arrow I am shooting through paper on all the nock settings. If I am unable to get a bullet hole with this I will strip the vanes and bare shaft through paper turning the nock about an 1/8 of an inch each shot. Once that is good I will fletch the cock vane straight up based on the orientation of the nock. Although you need a jig that is capable of doing this. There are aftermarket parts for the Bitz that allow you to index the cock vane directly above the nock.

 

[Wodez]

All great feedback thanks. i believe the nock tear left is a sign of my form going bad but I am not sure what exactly I am doing wrong. Last week when I noticed the group open up I was probably “trying” To hard to shoot good instead of going back to basics and it group got worse and worse. This week things are starting to look better. But whatever I was doing it was shooting more to the right on average and paper tearing left. Perhaps torquing the bow?
A bit hard to spine test arrows by paper tuning Unfletched if my form is as inconsistent as it has been lately. I do use victory arrows which are spine aligned but I am no sure how accurate that is done at the factory.
I am just after a way to practice and find good form as I think trying to shoot groups isn’t telling me much other than shit group or good group.

 

[Zac]

I'm pretty sure the spine align thing is all marketing. Kyle from DC arrows could never get his spine marks to match the factory marks with three different methods.