Bought wrong spines

[grainhog]

I shoot a V3X at 65 lb and 29" DL. I had 5 leftover Hunter XTs with a 300 spine weight, the collars that came in the box, and 100 gr field points/broadheads. I bought another half dozen Hunter XTs at Scheel's last night, and had them cut to the same length as my leftover arrows. The problem is I dumbly grabbed 340 spine weights instead of 300s without noticing.

If you were me, would you just shoot em and see how they place relative to the 300s? Or would you try to sell the 340s new, and then go back and buy the 300s? $75 isn't the end of the world, but it is annoying.

Guess this is more evidence that I need a chronograph too...

 

[TheViking]

What does spine chart say?

 

[grainhog]

What does spine chart say?

Assuming the attached is the correct chart (for IBO<315 fps; v3x IBO is 340 fps, but I know I'm not getting velocity like that, so I assume this is the right chart), it appears I'm right on the boundary between 300 and 340.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I guess I need to ask 2 questions: 1) what spine weight is safe/appropriate to shoot with my setup? and 2) if 300 and 340 are both safe/reasonable, are their weights close enough to equivalent that they place closely enough to shoot them interchangeably?

Does this sound right?

 

[Mighty Mouse]

340 spine will be fine at your specs unless you’re putting a whole bunch of extra weight on the front end. There’s 0.4 gpi difference between a GT Hunter 300 and 340, so your 340 arrow will be ≈11 gr lighter than your 300 assuming all else is equal. The difference in trajectory caused by 11 gr will not be noticeable. If the weight difference bothers you, add a 10 gr FACT weight behind the insert on your 340 arrow.

 

[BigSky]

With your specs I would, and do, choose 340 spine over 300. The exception would be if I found that the 340s were not accurate with my particular setup for some reason. Only then would I move up to 300.

 

[blackveltbowhunter]

What your actual arrow length is could be helpful. The short answer is they can be safely shot. No concern there. I would expect them the group well enough with the 300s and field points. Things might get weird with fixed heads would be my only concern.

 

[bergie]

I would run with the 300 spine (I like to be stiffer than not when in between spines). I however would keep the 340s and they would be the dedicated grouse/turkey/coyote arrow in my quiver and my smoker round/metal target arrow for 3d shoots. Archery for me is more mental than anything else. The absolute last thing I would want is for that 300+" bull to be at my maximum effective range and have to think about aiming a little higher to compensate for the difference in arrow weight(assuming they tune the same, more on that later). If I know myself well enough I will either totally forget in the heat of the moment or estimate way wrong and send that arrow over his back. You could add another 10 grains as mentioned above to the front, but since you are already on the border of spine you may find that it will be an issue to tune with the little bit of added FOC and that 340 may flex too much.

If you only ever shoot 20 yards though, rock with it and dont worry about it.

 

[Billy Goat]

How long are your shafts?

What ATA bow?

At 27-28" in length they will probably work at your specs.

I can use 340's at 70# with a 33, but I ended up with them pretty short.

Broadheads will be your final answer, but if you just want to keep them for practice arrows they should be fine.

 

[grainhog]

I just measured a shaft at 29 1/4" not counting the nock. It's the 29" ATA. I've been shooting sevr full mechanical 1.5 and 1.75s. In fact I usually keep 3 field points and 3 sevrs in practice mode in my quiver during the summer so I'm used to seeing both.

I shot the new 340s this afternoon alongside the 300s. I guess results are inconclusive. I'm not really shooting well enough to know.

 

[Beendare]

I shot the new 340s this afternoon alongside the 300s. I guess results are inconclusive. I'm not really shooting well enough to know.

Ahh, Honesty...a good trait.

 

[butcherboy]

Cut those arrows to 27 1/2” or 28”. If your draw length is 29” and your arrows are 29 1/4” seems a little long to me. Shortening them will make them stiffer.

 

[camelcluch]

Shoot them and see. If they tune and group, you’re done.

 

[grainhog]

Cut those arrows to 27 1/2” or 28”. If your draw length is 29” and your arrows are 29 1/4” seems a little long to me. Shortening them will make them stiffer.

Do you suggest this because I'm shooting the sevrs? I don't think I'd be able to shoot fixed heads at that length, but maybe no one shoots both mechanical and fixed on the same shafts?

 

[camelcluch]

Most fixed will fit in the shelf. Put a head on and slide it back on the rest to the shelf. But even with a fixed your arrow seems long.

 

[butcherboy]

Do you suggest this because I'm shooting the sevrs? I don't think I'd be able to shoot fixed heads at that length, but maybe no one shoots both mechanical and fixed on the same shafts?

I shoot fixed only. DL is 28” and I cut my arrows to 27”. I could even go a little shorter if I wanted to. Most fixed broadheads seem to have a 1” to 1 1/8” cutting diameter unless you shoot a wide. I shoot the QAD exodus swept with no problems. Only issue would be if you use a slider sight and move the sight housing too low but that’s an issue no matter what your arrow length is.

Many years ago I used an overdraw and shot some short arrows with fixed blade. We were looking for speed back then and had no idea that we were stiffening the spine of arrows as well. No carbon back then either. It was all aluminum or wood arrows.

 

[Marble]

With your specs I would, and do, choose 340 spine over 300. The exception would be if I found that the 340s were not accurate with my particular setup for some reason. Only then would I move up to 300.

The only thing I would add to this is to shoot it with broadheads. Sometimes the field points are forgiving enough that imperfections in the spine choise won't show up until you put a broadhead on.

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