Bonding a picatinny rail to an action

[Marbles]

Could you just use 2 longer screws without the heads.Thread in action,epoxy rail and set down over studs for alignment than back out studs and replace with screws.
Should be perfectly aligned over holes.

Side note-anyone know if you can buy the factory tikka 6-48 Ctr screws?

Just leave some clearance around the screw holes with your glue/epoxy. Tighten all 4 to snug (I torque to spec to compress the epoxy), then pull them out one at a time, wipe off any epoxy that got on them and torque to spec before moving on to the next one.

I'm using JB Qwik weld, so time is not an issue.

 

[The Harbor Master]

Just leave some clearance around the screw holes with your glue/epoxy. Tighten all 4 to snug (I torque to spec to compress the epoxy), the pull the out one at a time, wipe off any epoxy that got on them and torque to spec before moving on to the next one.

I'm using JB Qwik weld, so time is not an issue.

This is exactly what I do, using Qwik Weld also. Once cured, I remove the screws and follow normal degrease/thread locker procedure and torque to spec again. No issues.

 

[alexnelon]

Has anyone used traditional Gorilla Glue for bonding a rail?

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I’ve used Bob Smith Maxi-Cure and IC-2000 and they both seem the same in end result.

I also just use regular CYA for all my arrow inserts and I’ve never had one come loose so I’m not 100% sold on the necessity of rubber-toughened glue to start with.

On paper, sure it’s better but these glues are rated to hold under 1,000-5,000 PSI+. Even 48” drops aren’t putting enough pressure on the rail to action joint (~10 PSI) to show any difference in this application.

 

[Coopsdaddy]

Bonding with 380 this week.
For the tikka actions is the torque spec 15in lbs?
Im using a factory Ctr rail and hardware.
Last thing I want to do is snap a screw off.

 

[amassi]

Bonding with 380 this week.
For the tikka actions is the torque spec 15in lbs?
Im using a factory Ctr rail and hardware.
Last thing I want to do is snap a screw off.

Yes


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[Njadams13]

Just did my Warne split bases on my kimber Montana today. Honestly I kind of think I applied too thin of a layer as I barely got any squeeze out, but they definitely stuck on there. Time will tell if they pop, but I doubt they will. I had the screws back out on me once (blue locktite and torqued to spec, 300 wsm) prior to this. Hopefully it is an issue of the past

 

[3 oh 8]

Used the 380 to bond an Area 419 rail to my tikka. What’s the best way to remove it? Want to send my action to UM to lose some weight…

 

[alexnelon]

Used the 380 to bond an Area 419 rail to my tikka. What’s the best way to remove it? Want to send my action to UM to lose some weight…

Paper towel soaked in acetone wrapped around the base

 

[3 oh 8]

Paper towel soaked in acetone wrapped around the base

Acetone won’t ruin the finish on the rail or action?

 

[Shortschaf]

Acetone won’t ruin the finish on the rail or action?

No to both

As for the action, even if it did ruin a finish, you are about to have it milled and nitrided or cerekoted

 

[3 oh 8]

Perfect thanks!

 

[Neil84]

Does anyone know the difference between 380 & 480? Would it make much of a difference?


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[alexnelon]

Does anyone know the difference between 380 & 480? Would it make much of a difference?


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480 is slightly thinner and has an additive to make it more resistant to heat and moisture.

Both would be fine.

CYA glue is overkill by like 10,000% in this application so it really doesn’t make a huge difference which one you use.

 

[Rich M]

My old man puts everything in with red loctite - you aint never getting hist stuff apart. I have a couple rifles with permanent rails and I hate rails - much prefer 1 piece mounts w base & ring getting screwed to barrel.

 

[nm.otter]

My old man puts everything in with red loctite - you aint never getting his stuff apart.

Heat gun and patience will do it. You can also bake the whole assembly in an oven.

 

[grfox92]

My old man puts everything in with red loctite - you aint never getting hist stuff apart. I have a couple rifles with permanent rails and I hate rails - much prefer 1 piece mounts w base & ring getting screwed to barrel.

I had a friend spin a new barrel on my Tikka, while there were decided to mount a pic rail and drop it in a chassis. Hes a backyard gunsmith, has a lathe and builds a lot of rifles for family and friends.

He mounted my Pic rail last year with red locktite on the screws and before he dropped the pic rail in place he smeared a bunch of it on the top of the action.

I just took that Pic rail off and it required a couple taps with a deadblow hammer. Im not saying red locktite is the best option for gluing a rail to an action, and I wont use it again, but it certainly can attest to the effectiveness of it.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

My old man puts everything in with red loctite - you aint never getting hist stuff apart. I have a couple rifles with permanent rails and I hate rails - much prefer 1 piece mounts w base & ring getting screwed to barrel.

Sounds like your old man knows how to put together reliable rifles.

 

[Rich M]

Heat gun and patience will do it. You can also bake the whole assembly in an oven.

Soldering iron on the offending screw will work too.