Bonding a picatinny rail to an action

[Marbles]

Could you just use 2 longer screws without the heads.Thread in action,epoxy rail and set down over studs for alignment than back out studs and replace with screws.
Should be perfectly aligned over holes.

Side note-anyone know if you can buy the factory tikka 6-48 Ctr screws?

Just leave some clearance around the screw holes with your glue/epoxy. Tighten all 4 to snug (I torque to spec to compress the epoxy), then pull them out one at a time, wipe off any epoxy that got on them and torque to spec before moving on to the next one.

I'm using JB Qwik weld, so time is not an issue.

 

[The Harbor Master]

Just leave some clearance around the screw holes with your glue/epoxy. Tighten all 4 to snug (I torque to spec to compress the epoxy), the pull the out one at a time, wipe off any epoxy that got on them and torque to spec before moving on to the next one.

I'm using JB Qwik weld, so time is not an issue.

This is exactly what I do, using Qwik Weld also. Once cured, I remove the screws and follow normal degrease/thread locker procedure and torque to spec again. No issues.

 

[alexnelon]

Has anyone used traditional Gorilla Glue for bonding a rail?

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I’ve used Bob Smith Maxi-Cure and IC-2000 and they both seem the same in end result.

I also just use regular CYA for all my arrow inserts and I’ve never had one come loose so I’m not 100% sold on the necessity of rubber-toughened glue to start with.

On paper, sure it’s better but these glues are rated to hold under 1,000-5,000 PSI+. Even 48” drops aren’t putting enough pressure on the rail to action joint (~10 PSI) to show any difference in this application.