Bonding a picatinny rail to an action

[Bluumoon]

Yes. You kind of need to do it quickly. Put the 380 on the bottom of the rail, keep it away from the screw holes, set it straight down on top of the action with the holes lined up. Put the base screws in quickly and tighten to slightly snug. Then remove one screw at a time and wipe off with alcohol and then put it back. Do this quickly. Once you’ve got all the screws pulled and wiped off once, go back and one by one pull the screws, wipe them down with alcohol, and use a q-tip with alcohol to wipe out the screw holes. Then thread lock and torque correctly.

What if you degreased, 380ed the rail and screw threads and tightened all at once. Asking for a friend ..

 

[Formidilosus]

What if you were doing an X-bolt base with 8 screws? That’s going to take like twice as long of wiping and threading and torquing?

You are over thinking it.

 

[Formidilosus]

What if you degreased, 380ed the rail and screw threads and tightened all at once. Asking for a friend ..

Then they have done it correctly.


grin

 

[jaredg]

I just 380'd a rail onto my X-Bolt. I actually left out the front two screws where the barrel threads are visible. Threads were buggered and I figured 6 screws and 380 Max I should be fine.

Also figured if I ever wanted a barrel swap I could drop heated Kroil onto the exposed barrel threads to help with barrel removal.

 

[SDHNTR]

Or just use JB Weld and take your time. I tried 380 and it works fine. Perhaps if I wanted to assemble and go shoot the gun same day I might prefer if, but if given the time, epoxy is easier to work with IMO.

 

[Marbles]

Or just use JB Weld and take your time. I tried 380 and it works fine. Perhaps if I wanted to assemble and go shoot the gun same day I might prefer if, but if given the time, epoxy is easier to work with IMO.

I have had good success with JB Quik weld. The regular stuff would give more time to work, but I don't want to fool with 500 degrees to break it free if I ever pull the rail.

 

[H80Hunter]

Is the idea that once you put the glue down and snug the screws that you’ve basically positioned the rail where it’s going to be, then you can take your time (within reason) pulling each screw, cleaning the hole, adding thread locker and torquing the screws to full torque?

 

[Marbles]

Is the idea that once you put the glue down and snug the screws that you’ve basically positioned the rail where it’s going to be, then you can take your time (within reason) pulling each screw, cleaning the hole, adding thread locker and torquing the screws to full torque?

With the JB weld, I spread a thin layer on the rail, staying away from screw holes. Torque all 4 screws to spec as I want to squeeze out an excess JB weld before it starts to set. Then pull each screw one at a time and clean, torquing that screw to spec before removing the next. Then tak a toothpick and clean out the small amount of JB weld that oozed from between the rail and action.

Black max sets up faster and you don't have to worry about excessive thickness as much, so I'm guessing it will work like you are thinking.

 

[SDHNTR]

With the JB weld, I spread a thin layer on the rail, staying away from screw holes. Torque all 4 screws to spec as I want to squeeze out an excess JB weld before it starts to set. Then pull each screw one at a time and clean, torquing that screw to spec before removing the next. Then tak a toothpick and clean out the small amount of JB weld that oozed from between the rail and action.

Black max sets up faster and you don't have to worry about excessive thickness as much, so I'm guessing it will work like you are thinking.

I do similar but I don’t torque to spec until after the epoxy cures, I just go snug, then let it cure. Beds and bonds at the same time.

 

[S.Clancy]

I just used 2 part epoxy that I used to build golf clubs. If it can keep the driver head attached to the shaft at 120 mph that rail ain't moving.

 

[RockAndSage]

I just used 2 part epoxy that I used to build golf clubs. If it can keep the driver head attached to the shaft at 120 mph that rail ain't moving.

Which epoxy?

 

[S.Clancy]

Which epoxy?

 

[JohnJohnson]

@Formidilosus how necessary is this if I'm using the Area419 rail that has the recoil lug?

 

[Formidilosus]

@Formidilosus how necessary is this if I'm using the Area419 rail that has the recoil lug?

I don’t know. That’s up to each person. Everything I’ve seen- I bond every rail.

 

[Castle Rock]

@Formidilosus how necessary is this if I'm using the Area419 rail that has the recoil lug?

They are still only held on by toy screws a few threads deep, the decision is all yours

 

[ResearchinStuff]

@Formidilosus how necessary is this if I'm using the Area419 rail that has the recoil lug?

I have 2 419 rails, both jb welded to my tikkas. The screws are very small.

 

[rbutcher1234]

Considering we are bonding SRS rails that have two recoil pins, 4 large screws, yeah you should bond the 419 that has tiny screws and only one recoil lug.

 

[stevie]

Thanks for the info. Bonded Area 419 rail to my Tikka using Black Max. The little .1oz tube will do more than one.

 

[Southernfried]

I use golf club epoxy on everything including my clubs. Somehow it just works, but you can still break it down with heat. LOL put dont forget part A and B lol just part B is a mess lol

 

[onlybrowning]

Just reading through this. I’ve never epoxied a rail to a receiver. I see one person noted doing like bedding an action, which makes sense to me, given that it allows the rail to removed easily. However, I’m thinking the shear strength of the epoxy is what actually desired here as to not “only” rely on the screws securing the base to the action.

Is that the case, or is using a release agent on the receiver going to give the same added strength?


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