Bonding a picatinny rail to an action

[Bluumoon]

Yes. You kind of need to do it quickly. Put the 380 on the bottom of the rail, keep it away from the screw holes, set it straight down on top of the action with the holes lined up. Put the base screws in quickly and tighten to slightly snug. Then remove one screw at a time and wipe off with alcohol and then put it back. Do this quickly. Once you’ve got all the screws pulled and wiped off once, go back and one by one pull the screws, wipe them down with alcohol, and use a q-tip with alcohol to wipe out the screw holes. Then thread lock and torque correctly.

What if you degreased, 380ed the rail and screw threads and tightened all at once. Asking for a friend ..

 

[Formidilosus]

What if you were doing an X-bolt base with 8 screws? That’s going to take like twice as long of wiping and threading and torquing?

You are over thinking it.

 

[Formidilosus]

What if you degreased, 380ed the rail and screw threads and tightened all at once. Asking for a friend ..

Then they have done it correctly.


grin

 

[jaredg]

I just 380'd a rail onto my X-Bolt. I actually left out the front two screws where the barrel threads are visible. Threads were buggered and I figured 6 screws and 380 Max I should be fine.

Also figured if I ever wanted a barrel swap I could drop heated Kroil onto the exposed barrel threads to help with barrel removal.

 

[SDHNTR]

Or just use JB Weld and take your time. I tried 380 and it works fine. Perhaps if I wanted to assemble and go shoot the gun same day I might prefer if, but if given the time, epoxy is easier to work with IMO.

 

[Marbles]

Or just use JB Weld and take your time. I tried 380 and it works fine. Perhaps if I wanted to assemble and go shoot the gun same day I might prefer if, but if given the time, epoxy is easier to work with IMO.

I have had good success with JB Quik weld. The regular stuff would give more time to work, but I don't want to fool with 500 degrees to break it free if I ever pull the rail.

 

[H80Hunter]

Is the idea that once you put the glue down and snug the screws that you’ve basically positioned the rail where it’s going to be, then you can take your time (within reason) pulling each screw, cleaning the hole, adding thread locker and torquing the screws to full torque?

 

[Marbles]

Is the idea that once you put the glue down and snug the screws that you’ve basically positioned the rail where it’s going to be, then you can take your time (within reason) pulling each screw, cleaning the hole, adding thread locker and torquing the screws to full torque?

With the JB weld, I spread a thin layer on the rail, staying away from screw holes. Torque all 4 screws to spec as I want to squeeze out an excess JB weld before it starts to set. Then pull each screw one at a time and clean, torquing that screw to spec before removing the next. Then tak a toothpick and clean out the small amount of JB weld that oozed from between the rail and action.

Black max sets up faster and you don't have to worry about excessive thickness as much, so I'm guessing it will work like you are thinking.

 

[SDHNTR]

With the JB weld, I spread a thin layer on the rail, staying away from screw holes. Torque all 4 screws to spec as I want to squeeze out an excess JB weld before it starts to set. Then pull each screw one at a time and clean, torquing that screw to spec before removing the next. Then tak a toothpick and clean out the small amount of JB weld that oozed from between the rail and action.

Black max sets up faster and you don't have to worry about excessive thickness as much, so I'm guessing it will work like you are thinking.

I do similar but I don’t torque to spec until after the epoxy cures, I just go snug, then let it cure. Beds and bonds at the same time.