Bonding a picatinny rail to an action

[Formidilosus]

I get that. I’ve used rubberised CYA adhesive for installing inserts in my arrows for years. It’s much better than standard CYA at absorbing impacts. I just don’t see it being hard enough to withstand much compression. Seems to me that epoxy would still be a better fit to create the liquid shim, and then you could apply the CYA afterwards for better adhesion?

For “bedding” a rail to correct for straightness, Loctite 380 probably isn’t the choice. To bond a rail to a receiver that is still relatively simple to remove- Loctite 380 is working exceptionally well- have shot a rifle bonded with 380 and no rail screws. Just bonded an action to a chassis this morning with it.

 

[SDHNTR]

For “bedding” a rail to correct for straightness, Loctite 380 probably isn’t the choice. To bond a rail to a receiver that is still relatively simple to remove- Loctite 380 is working exceptionally well- have shot a rifle bonded with 380 and no rail screws. Just bonded an action to a chassis this morning with it.

Roger. That makes more sense. There is a difference between bedding and bonding. If bonding alone, I can see the use of Loctite. If bedding is also necessary seems epoxy is the better choice.

 

[Castle Rock]

You certainly don’t need to bed a rail to a tikka action, they are dead flat

 

[jamesmc8]

If for whatever reason a rail that has been bonded with Loctite 380 needs removed how easy is it to clean any residual Loctite residue off the top of the receiver?

 

[Marbles]

If for whatever reason a rail that has been bonded with Loctite 380 needs removed how easy is it to clean any residual Loctite residue off the top of the receiver?

Acetone should do it quite well.

I have used JB Weld quick curing and it cleaned off pretty easily with heat and scraping.

 

[Bowfinn]

If for whatever reason a rail that has been bonded with Loctite 380 needs removed how easy is it to clean any residual Loctite residue off the top of the receiver?

Last week I used steel wool. It cleaned both the action and rail without any scratches.

 

[Castle Rock]

Just bought a new Sauer, in the instructions it clearly states any bases should be bonded to the action with 2 part epoxy
This is despite all the other nonsense like calling the bolt a “chamber”