Binocular Advice for Extended Glassing Sessions

[MuddyBoots]

I'm planning a high country archery mule deer hunt for next year and need some advice on binoculars for viewing comfort for long glassing sessions. I'm an eastern whitetail hunter that mostly uses binos sparingly to check movement from a tree stand and brushy areas when heading to a stand. I have an older set of Leupold 10x42s which I've been happy with for my current use. But, my current binoculars aren't what I would call pleasurable to look through and I'm concerned that I won't be able to sit behind them and pick apart hillsides for hours at a time even when using a tripod. I have the patience to sit up a tree dark to dark if I feel it will pay off in the long run. What level of binoculars are required to making all day glassing pleasurable? I've done some reading on good bang for the buck binoculars and am considering Maven B.2 in 11x45 and Zeiss Conquest HD in 10x42. But, I could justify spending more on something like Swarovski SLCs or ELs if it's the difference between hunting/glassing hard all day for 10 days straight versus only glassing hard early and late and having to fighting wanderlust mid-day because glassing with be less enjoyable without alpha glass.

I won't have much opportunity to practice glassing technique at home prior to my scouting trip. Will my ability to pick out deer pieces and ear and tail twitches in cover translate over to longer range glassing? On the cost the benefit analysis front, is it safe to assume that the best glass won't help you find much more game than mid-level glass other than being able to put more hours in and better resolution at first and last light? Thanks!

 

[Beendare]

Welcome to the forum.

there is a lot of info here if you use the search feature.

Specific to your question, the best strategy is to test binos side by side. I did that on 15’s, and bought the Meoptas for 1/2 of what i was ready to pay for Swaros.

I have seen some mid tier glass in 10x that was darn good for the price. Maybe look at the Nikons and Meoptas to compare to the excellent Swaro, Zeiss, or Leica.

I can tell you though, typically there is no one right answer.

Being comfortable helps a lot......A glassing pad or one of those REI type pads with straps giving you back support help a lot As does a good tripod. I have the Sirui carbon tripod with a good Sirui ball head that when adjusted just right i move with the bridge of my nose.

There are many other good tripod/ head combos that work well such as the grip and lock heads many of my buddies like.

Or you can just step up to the Swaro BTX/95mm my guide buddy uses and be done- grin.

 

[BBob]

I won't have much opportunity to practice glassing technique at home prior to my scouting trip. Will my ability to pick out deer pieces and ear and tail twitches in cover translate over to longer range glassing? On the cost the benefit analysis front, is it safe to assume that the best glass won't help you find much more game than mid-level glass other than being able to put more hours in and better resolution at first and last light? Thanks!

"is it safe to assume that the best glass won't help you find much more game than mid-level glass" Absolutely wrong!

High end glass will find more animals in all conditions. High end glass most certainly helps to find parts, looking through cover, in shadows, etc.... I have glassed so many times with others with lesser glass, they cannot see what I see period. There are times I see through cover and know exactly what it is I'm looking at (antler size) and the other person cannot even see the animal. I can spot score things far faster than lesser glass so I don't dick around looking at it any longer than needed wasting precious time that can be used finding that trophy. This is some of what the highest quality glass brings to the table. We spend so much time and effort out there I don't understand not optimizing one of the most important parts to western hunting.

Edit: I get the cost factor. When I was a kid a local (he killed lots of good Coues bucks) convinced me of the importance of a tripod and high end glass. This was when it was rare to see anyone in the field with a tripod let alone $1K binoculars. I scrimped and saved wherever I could and bought the glass of the day, Zeiss. It completely turned my hunting around and I instantly outpaced my cohorts of the day. I've never looked back.

 

[MuddyBoots]

Thanks Beendare. I'll definitely pick up some sort of pad or seat. I have an aluminum Slik tripod and tilt/pan head that I use with a DSLR and telephoto lens. I'm looking at the Sirui T-024SK with VA-5 fluid head to cut a couple of pounds of backpack weight, but if buying better glass is that important I could deal with lugging around the extra weight for another year or two. I'm not married to the options I listed and have read reviews on just about everything in my price range. Reviews/forum talk seem to contain a lot of personal preference and bias based on the conditions the binos are used under and the reviewers priorities. My plan is to make a trip to Cabelas for test viewing as they carry most of the binos I'm considering and it's a reasonable trip. I should be able to get a feel for what fits me best and how they handle low light but, unfortunately Cabelas isn't going to let me take them outside and try them on a tripod. I expect it will be difficult to determine in a store which option will perform best in real world conditions.

BBob- I really appreciate your prospective on this. Knowing that quality of glass might be the difference between success and failure, or at least the number of stalks I'm able to attempt, will probably convince me to stretch my budget and delay other purchases. My optical experience mostly comes from camera lenses where as long as you have the right tool for the job at hand the differences between generations of lenses are minor but the cost jumps are significant. I've been quite happy to save cash by purchasing used versions of canon L series lenses knowing I'm getting a quality product that was once top tier and only giving up a little performance to the latest and greatest version. I feel like binocular technology is probably in a similar place where you spend a lot more for The Best than for Very Good (which was probably the best not that long ago). But to me photography is a much more casual hobby than hunting. Finding that balance between cost and performance for hunting is my current conundrum. I expect glassing will be very important at and near timberline and for mule deer in general. If I feel like pinches pennies has cost me opportunities I'm going to regret the purchase and probably spend more in the long run.

You said:

I have glassed so many times with others with lesser glass, they cannot see what I see period. There are times I see through cover and know exactly what it is I'm looking at (antler size) and the other person cannot even see the animal.

Do you attribute the difference purely to the glass or does your experience and possibly catching movement play a large part?

 

[BBob]

You said:

Do you attribute the difference purely to the glass or does your experience and possibly catching movement play a large part?

Both, I've been doing it a very long time now. Keep in mind I spend most of my time looking for Coues but I think it translates to others very well. Movement (in my opinion) isn't what you catch most of the time, your brain keys on patterns you see. I pick up animals by shapes/color/etc... more often than movement, movement yes but not in general. If you have the cleanest best optics what you see will be more distinct and those patterns easier for your subconscious to see. Glassing tip: Don't just look at the picture in the glass, look closely and focus hard on every stick, rock, fluff of grass, etc... and you will be on your way to finding more while glassing. Yes, there are times not to do this but in general this is how you will spend your time. One way of looking at quality of glass and performance is the difference in Swaro HD to non-HD glass. They are very very close and most of the time it makes no difference but every now and then it'll come into play. This has been something I/we have seen directly in the field. This is why I'll pinch and save the pennies elsewhere to buy the HD (or better glass in general), sometimes it makes all the difference in the world. Anyway I'm on a rock glassing as we speak (finishing lunch) so I'm about to get back to it

 

[gr8fuldoug]

In quality binoculars, staying around $1,000.00 you should consider:

Leica Trinovid

Kowa Genesis

Meopta Meostar

Steiner HX

It would be our pleasure to discuss different options with you if you have the time to give a call, 516-217-1000

Happy New Year

 

[TTT]

Stabilize your bino with a sturdy tripod and a whole new world appears, even with less than top tier bino. Having said that, buy the best that you can afford. I thought SLC was it until I looked through ELs. I like the flat field & edge to edge sharpness.

 

[IrkedCitizen]

Pick up a new or used pair of 10x42 SLC. Buy a chest harness for them.

You must be ROCK STEADY! Any vibration will render even alpha glass worthless. Buy the best tripod AND head you can afford. Pan heads are much more enjoyable to use versus ball heads. Ball heads are not the end of the world though. You want the optic to be as close to the apex of the tripod as possible for maximum stability. Center columns add instability. Make sure your tripod will reach the height you need with leg sections alone.

As far as attaching binos to tripod there are many options to choose from. Choose the one you like the best. I have Zeiss Victory 10x56 RF binos and they do not have the option of having a stud installed for mounting so I am limited to strap style. I was using the Outdoorsman bino hand for a couple season but switched to the Really Right Stuff Cinch this season. It is compact and lightweight compared to the bino hand and makes it easier to get in and out of my chest harness. It can be installed/removed in seconds with no tools or modifications to the optic as compared to a stud. I enjoy it greatly.

 

[AZ_Hunter_2000]

First and foremost, you'll need a tripod and head. You don't need to spend a fortune on it but it is one of those things that you don't go cheap (there is a difference between "cheap" and "inexpensive"). As I'm sure you figured out with photography, the style of head you want is highly personal.

Top-tier glass does afford you the ability to find more game. If you have to stretch your budget a bit, consider doing so. When you glass from before dawn straight until to dusk, the higher-end optics make a huge difference when it comes to eye strain and associated issues (ex: head aches).

Since all of our eyes are different, take a look through several and see which one(s) you prefer. Doug posted earlier and I absolutely recommend giving him a call.

 

[TTT]

Don’t hesitate to buy used alpha glass if the opportunity comes up. I personally would never be careless or abuse my Swaro ELs or Kowa spotters. Also, RRS is an excellent product.

 

[MuddyBoots]

Thank you all for the advice. It seems I need to take a closer look at my budget and purchase priorities and give Doug a call.

 

[REALWARRIOR]

If I were you I would go bigger, or no smaller than 12X, but I would recommend 15x. Your Leupolds will suffice for closing in/stalking. From a bowhunter's perspective, think about this - How much would you have tied up in a bow (or Rifle) that it put into action for a minute or less. You'll spend 1000's of more time in that 10 days behind the glass. I would much rather have a $1000 set of tripod binos and hunt with a $300 weapon than the other way around. You will be less fatigued and have a more enjoyable hunt.
You may be thinking that this is a one-time trip, and with cheap glass, it may be. With good glass, you will continue to hunt the West.....it kind of burns into your soul.