Best scope under $2500

You hear this a lot, “I usually don’t shoot long range, but I might, or, I don’t really need to dial, but I want it”. I think many people buy riflescopes, with the same justification as insurance—better to have and not need, than need and not have it.
Lol yeah I'm in that boat for sure.
 
You hear this a lot, “I usually don’t shoot long range, but I might, or, I don’t really need to dial, but I want it”. I think many people buy riflescopes, with the same justification as insurance—better to have and not need, than need and not have it.
There is sound logic there, but after 57 years of hunting I am kind of set in my ways. The thing that I have fully embraced is the rangefinder. In my early days in the late 60's and 70's I carried an old military rangefinder that was about 14" long and you held it horizontal and looked in the viewer and you turned a dial until both eyes were clear and then looked at the dial and read the yardage.
 
Oh I do have to add that I get a 25% discount on Athlon scopes. What do you guys think of the Cronus BTR Gen 2?
 
At that price point I would look at the new Swarovski z5i+ 5-25x56 which last I checked was around $2300 if you go with lower magnification the price gets lower. The glass is amazing and the new turret is solid.
Is that new turret metal/brass, or plastic like the old one.

And that aside, I disagree with that much magnification in SFP unless you like doing subtension math under stress.
 
Great info. Although I have not experienced FFP I would assume based on what I've used that SFP may be a better option as well. Even in the longest of distances where I've spotted animals, I doubt anything has been over 700 yards because of all the mountains where we usually hunt. I hunt the mountains of CA and there isn't much flat land to even see that far.
If you go SFP, limit your magnification to 12-15x max.
 
If you go higher, don't get anything but a simple duplex reticle. The sub tensions on a SFP reticle are only accurate usually at max power. Good luck finding an animal at 500+ yards with a scope on 20x + power or seeing your impact. So if you are shooting at animals in the 10-15 power range with a SFP scope with sub tensions, they are pointless. Might as well just have a duplex reticle.
 
Can you explain what happens if you go higher?

Can’t use sub tensions on reticle usually below max, and higher the mag less ability you have to spot hits. Especially at <400 yards your given range.

Since you are limiting to 300 yards I’d look at 2-10 or 3-12 FFP or SFP.

Look for durability first, glass second
 
Can you explain what happens if you go higher?
Field of view matters! Magnification shrinks FOV. So much so that anything above 12-15x (imo, that’s somewhat subjective) shrinks FOV so much it become detrimental for hunting. You can’t find animals quickly, can’t spot your hits, can’t see where the animal went after impact, can’t get back on target for a follow up, etc. And if your reticle has wind holds (you want those) in order for them to be accurate, you need to be on max power. So in essence, in order to use your reticle property for wind, you need to be at max power. Now your FOV has shrunken to the point of being a negative factor. Furthermore, there is simply never any need for more than about 12-15x for hunting. Never.

FFP “fixes” this because you can simply crank down to 10-12x to make a shot and your wind holds (subtensions on reticle) remain accurate at all power ranges. Or you could crank up for range shooting and to really get your zero precise. You just need to make sure the scope has a reticle that is visible at the lower powers. That’s the hard part. That said, they are out there.

Also compound the above with the fact that to get big mag, yet still have a usable low end mag, you usually need big zoom erector systems (6-8x+). High zoom erectors can cause problems (tunneling, focus, tight eye box, etc) that all make a scope less user friendly. Especially for hunting when you may be in awkward shooting positions.
 
Can’t use sub tensions on reticle usually below max, and higher the mag less ability you have to spot hits. Especially at <400 yards your given range.

Since you are limiting to 300 yards I’d look at 2-10 or 3-12 FFP or SFP.

Look for durability first, glass second

You can use sub tensions at any power level. They may not mean the same thing at partial power as it would at full power, but if you know you want to be 3" over at such and such distance you can use the appropriate sub tension as an aiming point. It can be rocket science if you want it to be, or it can be a little educated Kentucky windage. Especially at 600 and under.
 
You can use sub tensions at any power level. They may not mean the same thing at partial power as it would at full power, but if you know you want to be 3" over at such and such distance you can use the appropriate sub tension as an aiming point. It can be rocket science if you want it to be, or it can be a little educated Kentucky windage. Especially at 600 and under.

You can do anything you want but I prefer NOT to have to do long division in my head then count Mil or MOA sub tension with a limited amount of time to pull trigger in high wind but to each their own
 
Field of view matters! Magnification shrinks FOV. So much so that anything above 12-15x (imo, that’s somewhat subjective) shrinks FOV so much it become detrimental for hunting. You can’t find animals quickly, can’t spot your hits, can’t see where the animal went after impact, can’t get back on target for a follow up, etc. And if your reticle has wind holds (you want those) in order for them to be accurate, you need to be on max power. So in essence, in order to use your reticle property for wind, you need to be at max power. Now your FOV has shrunken to the point of being a negative factor. Furthermore, there is simply never any need for more than about 12-15x for hunting. Never.

FFP “fixes” this because you can simply crank down to 10-12x to make a shot and your wind holds (subtensions on reticle) remain accurate at all power ranges. Or you could crank up for range shooting and to really get your zero precise. You just need to make sure the scope has a reticle that is visible at the lower powers. That’s the hard part. That said, they are out there.

Also compound the above with the fact that to get big mag, yet still have a usable low end mag, you usually need big zoom erector systems (6-8x+). High zoom erectors can cause problems (tunneling, focus, tight eye box, etc) that all make a scope less user friendly. Especially for hunting when you may be in awkward shooting positions.
Holy hell this is a ton of great information thank you. This will help me narrow down my selection for sure.
 
Well, you could be right, myself I can visualize 3" over the back and adjust accordingly. But that is just what I do. There are always multiple ways to skin a cat, I am comfortable doing it the way I do it and it has not failed me in 57 years of hunting (Yet).
 
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