Best Scope for Western Rookie

[CalebClick]

Flat lander here from KY. Have ventured west a couple times the past couple years to chase elk and deer with archery equipment. Now that I’ve built some points and what not, I’m planning on getting that way with a rifle soon. That being said, I recently purchased a tikka t3x in 30/06 and am needing to outfit it with a scope. My purpose of this gun is to try and make it my do-all western rifle. That being said, I want something that is powerful enough to stretch it out a bit (say 400-500 yards). Im looking to keep it around $500 or less if possible but as with everything in life, I realize you get what you pay for! So that is a flexible $500 budget. I am a rookie to long range shooting as well, for what it’s worth. So I definitely have a lot of practice behind the glass to put in in the coming months. Just wanted to get scope suggestions. Thanks in Advance!

 

[ODB]

the 3.5x10 is about perfect in my opinion. I have them on my 270 and 338. Easy peasy.

 

[Idahobugler]

Vx3 with the cds wouldn’t be a bad option.

 

[displacedtexan]

The Trijicon Huron in 3-12 is a real nice scope for the money.

 

[dieselchessy]

Ive had good luck with the Athlon Optics Helos BTR GEN2 2-12x42 AHMR2 FFP scopes in that price range. They have decent glass and seem to track well. Maybe a bit heavy for a T3X.
Leupold are decent as well and lighter in that price range.

 

[chaser_2332]

Don’t get caught up in high power scopes, with that budget you’re better off with a 10-12 max power that will allow you to get more scope for the money within your price range. The higher power the better glass you need to get the most out of it.

 

[Macintosh]

For around $500 and a scope that’ll be used in the east but also occasional trips where a longer shot is possible, my $ would get spent on a 3-9 trijicon credo with a mil-dot reticle.

Trijicon Credo 3-9x40 SFP w/ Green MIL-Square, 1 in., Matte Black Riflescope 2900042

FREE SHIPPING on Trijicon Credo 3-9x40 SFP w/ Green MIL-Square, 1 in., Matte Black Riflescope 2900042

www.eurooptic.com

Zero at 100, hold halfway to the first dot for 200, on first dot for 300, second for 400. After 300, every 10 yards is a tenth between dots so its easy to estimate holds at odd yardages. Much easier than a yardage-based reticle ime, plus you have wind holds, plus the scope isnt over-magnified at the magnification you can use the reticle, plus its a scope thats still at home where you’ll do most of your hunting.
Most of all, practice.

 

[TheM1DoesMyTalking]

Zero at 100, hold halfway to the first dot for 200, on first dot for 300, second for 400. After 300, every 10 yards is a tenth between dots so its easy to estimate holds at odd yardages.

That's a good breakdown of how you use this reticle. What caliber/chambering is that with? Since it's an SFP scope, what magnification are you using it on for that to all line up?

 

[ElkArcher918]

For your Eastern needs (and occasional Western trips) I'd go with a basic Leupold VX3i 3.5-10x40. Sight in 1.5-2.0" high @ 100 yds. and go hunting. I wouldn't bother with CDS and realistically limit your shots to 300-400 yds. The '06 is a pretty versatile cartridge at conventional hunting ranges. For deer I load mine with Barnes VortX TTT 150 grs, elk I'll shoot the same bullet in 168 grs..

 

[freddyG]

If you are going to go out west much, don’t get a Leupold, unless you like to chase zero. The shots are longer, and animals don’t stick around long in open country. The last thing you need is another variable to account for.

 

[SDHNTR]

For your Eastern needs (and occasional Western trips) I'd go with a basic Leupold VX3i 3.5-10x40. Sight in 1.5-2.0" high @ 100 yds. and go hunting. I wouldn't bother with CDS and realistically limit your shots to 300-400 yds. The '06 is a pretty versatile cartridge at conventional hunting ranges. For deer I load mine with Barnes VortX TTT 150 grs, elk I'll shoot the same bullet in 168 grs..

There are far better ways to do this. And by your logic, you also have your bullet choice backwards.

 

[SDHNTR]

Trijicon Huron 3-12.

 

[gr8fuldoug]

There are many great options. Please feel free to give us a call, 516-217-1000, to discuss what might be best for you. Your timing is great as Our Biggest Black Friday Event Ever Has Begun

 

[nksmfamjp]

I would look for a ffp 3-9x like https://swfa.com/collections/swfa-s...d-mil-quad-reticle-30mm-tube-1-mil-clicks-ffp.

….or maybe a Vortex Strike Eagle at your price range

….or maybe a Meopta

To be honest, I have owned none of those scopes. The scopes I have in that range are more expensive, but they work. I have boot on the ground experience with the Vortex Viper PST Gen 2 3-15x and the SS 3-15x. Both have been great. Both are going to drive you to the used market to hit your budget.

 

[BurnoutBro]

What is “western” to you. Are you talking hunting on the plains, high desert, cascade mountains? I ask because everything is west from you and I would choose different scope in some of those places. For example cascade range hunting rarely shoots over 100 yards and the hills are steep. I would choose a light weight 3x9 and always hunt uphill from the truck.

 

[ElkArcher918]

There are far better ways to do this. And by your logic, you also have your bullet choice backwards.

How do you figure? Been a hard-core big game hunter in the East and the West 20 yrs+. How do I have it backwards? Care to explain your logic? There's many way to skin a cat, some more ideal than others.

 

[Macintosh]

That's a good breakdown of how you use this reticle. What caliber/chambering is that with? Since it's an SFP scope, what magnification are you using it on for that to all line up?

At full magnification so the hashmarks are true 1mil, so 9x in the scope I suggested. It lines up pretty well with most non-magnum centerfire rifle cartritdges, including my 3006 and my 6.5cm. To 400 yards its generally within a tenth or two mils, which is as-accurate or more accurate than a MPBR zero and just holding on center. Like anything though, you do need to practice with it for it to be effective.

 

[SDHNTR]

How do you figure? Been a hard-core big game hunter in the East and the West 20 yrs+. How do I have it backwards? Care to explain your logic? There's many way to skin a cat, some more ideal than others.

First of all, the scope you mentioned is a widely known failure point. Second of all, there is never a reason to “zero” into space. 1.5-2” high is simply too imprecise and unnecessary. That is not a zero. Buy a good scope that is known to hold zero and track well. Zero it with an actual zero. That means a 10+ round group centered directly on the bullseye at 100 yards, where you can be precise with less influence from environmental conditions. Then if you want a 200 yard poi, or whatever for your mpbr preference, simply dial up a few clicks as necessary. That’s a far better system than your “Kentucky holdover” and hope for the best.

And wrt to your bullet choice, the 150 Barnes is actually a much harder bullet than the 168. Barnes will tell you that. The 150 will penetrate more and expand less, which by your logic, would make it a better choice for elk (though it’s not). The 168 is designed to open at lower velocities. Especially at non magnum velocities, the 168 is a much better choice if you want to shoot a mono, at either deer or elk.

 

[TaperPin]

What I’ve done with a loaner rifle when it had a variable scope is use electrical tape to lock it at 6x, or 4x if it was going to be used in the timber.

More animals are lost to guys cranking the scope up and down, than to the limitations of a fixed scope that is simple and thus faster and more trouble free. Rookies have plenty to think about when getting used to the type of shooting we do, without adding needless complexity.

Big game provides a large target and very few guys will see a difference in group size off the bench between 6x and 10x.

 

[ElkArcher918]

First of all, the scope you mentioned is a widely known failure point. Second of all, there is never a reason to “zero” into space. 1.5-2” high is simply too imprecise and unnecessary. That is not a zero. Buy a good scope that is known to hold zero and track well. Zero it with an actual zero. That means a 10+ round group centered directly on the bullseye at 100 yards, where you can be precise with less influence from environmental conditions. Then if you want a 200 yard poi, or whatever for your mpbr preference, simply dial up a few clicks as necessary. That’s a far better system than your “Kentucky holdover” and hope for the best.

And wrt to your bullet choice, the 150 Barnes is actually a much harder bullet than the 168. Barnes will tell you that. The 150 will penetrate more and expand less, which by your logic, would make it a better choice for elk (though it’s not). The 168 is designed to open at lower velocities. Especially at non magnum velocities, the 168 is a much better choice if you want to shoot a mono, at either deer or elk.

Clarification, I shoot VortX TTT 150 for deer, VortX TTT 168 for elk. The OP is primarily a whitetail Eastern hunter meaning most shots inside 100-150 yds. Don't see a need to put a Nighforce, Swaro, Zeiss, or some other Alpha glass which I have. You ever shoot a deer with a heavy coppe bullet at close range? It basically pencils through an animal with a minimal blood trail. I actually will shoot the 150 grs out of my '06 or preferably 130 grs out of my .270 for whitetail/mule deer. I live in elk country and shoot the 168 grs VORTX out of my ' 06 for bull elk. I like copper bullets for better penetration, less meat damage, and shoot a lighter bullet for caliber. My comment was tailored to an Eastern hunter that occasionally comes out West and is likely not gonna be taking shots from the next county. The OP is just looking for a serviceable versatile without breaking the bank.