Best mechanical broad head for big game?

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The Taiwan built Spitfires I bought around 5 years ago? after getting a bit low on US originals were:

-Difficult to open as they increased the "dimple-plate" blade retainer from .004" to .005" thick and has a larger dimple sticking up .003" higher . Really increased the force required to open the blades by about double in my measurements with a trigger pull gage. I typically remove the dimple plate and reduce the height a bit with my Dremel tool. Tried tapping it down but couldn't control the quality...maybe should hae built a jig of sorts to do it. Pain in the butt.

-The blades were not near as sharp...original Spitfires were super sharp out of the package. I touch them up on an electric knife sharpener.

I did not have issues with spinning the head. Runout was very minimal.

All this said, my off-shore Spitfires with issues were from a ways back, no comment on latest production. ...and I came by a supply of old original USA heads so am fixed up for quite a few years.
 

GreggB

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Aug 7, 2022
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The new Trypan 1.75
I think this broadhead will be a winner. Got rid of the NC which I think was a poor design, sharper blades, better penetration than the original Trypan which was a great penetrating head to begin with. Great idea to combine vertical and crossbow head in one package. Trypan 1.75.jpg
 

Zac

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Dec 1, 2018
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UT
The new Trypan 1.75
I think this broadhead will be a winner. Got rid of the NC which I think was a poor design, sharper blades, better penetration than the original Trypan which was a great penetrating head to begin with. Great idea to combine vertical and crossbow head in one package. View attachment 753660
So do they have a shock collar? How are the blades staying closed? Also I noticed you get 3 heads!
 

GreggB

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Aug 7, 2022
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Yes, the keyed collar although I use dental band instead. Lower blade profile, less chance of bumping them open and faster deployment than with collars.
 
Joined
Mar 10, 2024
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Montana
I have had good luck with the slick trick assailants 100g. Great flight and minimal tuning. Might loose a little penetration compared to fixed blades but when they get into the vitals they tear em up. Have harvested multiple bull elk with them out to 45 yards. Shoot great out to 80 yards for me, Haven't tried any further. I will be sticking with them.
 

Trial153

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Oct 28, 2014
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Three Mechanical heads are standing out as top performers for with about 14 kills between these three this year.

125 grain SevR hybrid
125 2” Beast
100 grain 1.9 and 1.7 Trifecta pop locks

my biggest sample sizes is the Trifeca followed by the SevR.
 

nphunter

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Jul 27, 2016
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A little late but IMO the dead meat is hard to beat. Blades stay closed, excellent penetration and they are very durable. I’ve killed several mature bulls with the dead meat and got pass throughs on most of them. I’ve also had great results with the Trypan but don’t really like the collars so I switched. This year I moved from my dead meats to the Hyde glue in heads because I wanted to go back to 4mm shafts and love the glue in option. I’m sold on the Hyde but only have one dead elk using them so I can’t really recommend them over the dead meat, even though I will continue to use them over the dead meat myself.

A few elk killed with Dead Meat 100gr heads. 70lb bow, 440-500fr arrows, 27.5” draw.

This bull I was below him and he spun on the shot and the arrow went in through the front of his shoulder. Made it less than 100 yards. Shot was 38yrds
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This bull I made a perfect shot on and he went about 40 yards and fell over, arrow was sticking out the backside but still in. 60yds
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This bull was below me on a very steep cut, arrow went in high and exited perfectly behind the shoulder.
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The head after going through the bull above at 58yrds.
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Same head washed with soap and water.
IMG_4583.jpeg
 

nphunter

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This bull was killed with a Trypan, I’ve also killed an antelope with a Trypan and it was devastating. I’ve just had too many open in the quiver so I moved away from them.
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First shot was low right where the diagram was just behind the heart, dumped all his blood and some of his insides.
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He walked about 30 yards and laid down so I walked up and put another arrow through the front of his shoulder up by his neck into both lungs. This is the entrance through the shoulder.
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Entrance on the goat through the front shoulder hard quartered toward at 53yrds.
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Exited just behind the offside ribs. The goat stumbled 30 yards and tipped over.
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nphunter

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This bull was killed at 78 yards with a Hyde, wind was blowing so I held anger inched forward and hit right where I was aiming through the front of the shoulder. I was above him on some rim rock and the arrow went though his heart and exited his offside leg. He slowly walked away following his cows with a river of blood running out of him and fell over less than 100 yards away.
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The exit
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The head after getting home and washing it. Very happy with the Hyde and don’t see switching to anything else for a long time.
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nphunter

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@nphunter I take it you're using the 150gr stainless steel glue in and the 10gr alum collar? What is your total arrow weight with that head?
TAW is 440gr exactly. Easton Pro Comp, wrap, ez vanes from Australia, 150gr with 10gr collars. I’m using 200gr target points off eBay cut to 160gr.

Arrow is going about 290fps. I was shooting about 470-500gr around 275-280 with the other two heads.
 

CoWapiti

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Apr 2, 2019
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TAW is 440gr exactly. Easton Pro Comp, wrap, ez vanes from Australia, 150gr with 10gr collars. I’m using 200gr target points off eBay cut to 160gr.

Arrow is going about 290fps. I was shooting about 470-500gr around 275-280 with the other two heads.
I'm right at 442gr with a 100gr head. Interested in the hyde but not big on the aluminum 100gr screw in. Would prefer the steel. Just not sure how my arrow would handle another 50gr up front.
 

nphunter

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I'm right at 442gr with a 100gr head. Interested in the hyde but not big on the aluminum 100gr screw in. Would prefer the steel. Just not sure how my arrow would handle another 50gr up front.
According to them their aluminum head is fine as well as far as durability. I have some aluminum ones and they are well built, I’ll have my boys use them on deer and elk. I’ve killed plenty of animals with aluminum ferrule fixed heads. The screws that hold the blades in are still probably the weak point in both and made of stainless.

It won’t hurt anything to gain 50gr upfront unless you’re borderline too weak to begin with. I’m shooting a 27” arrow, 74lbs with 160 up front and using 340’s. I’ve always found I shoot better groups at long ranges with arrows in the weaker side, I tuned with the fixed head version before switching to the mechanical for hunting.
 

CoWapiti

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Apr 2, 2019
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51
According to them their aluminum head is fine as well as far as durability. I have some aluminum ones and they are well built, I’ll have my boys use them on deer and elk. I’ve killed plenty of animals with aluminum ferrule fixed heads. The screws that hold the blades in are still probably the weak point in both and made of stainless.

It won’t hurt anything to gain 50gr upfront unless you’re borderline too weak to begin with. I’m shooting a 27” arrow, 74lbs with 160 up front and using 340’s. I’ve always found I shoot better groups at long ranges with arrows in the weaker side, I tuned with the fixed head version before switching to the mechanical for hunting.
Interesting info, thanks for sharing! I've mostly just shot slick tricks so I am used to an all steel head. I'll have to do some more research. To clarify, when you say you tuned with the fixed head version do you mean you tuned with the jekyll?
 

nphunter

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Interesting info, thanks for sharing! I've mostly just shot slick tricks so I am used to an all steel head. I'll have to do some more research. To clarify, when you say you tuned with the fixed head version do you mean you tuned with the jekyll?
Yes, I have both, I always like to tune with fixed heads because they are much less forgiving. I actually just bought 6 Hyde’s and ordered some Jekyll replacements blades and put in a couple.
 
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