Best LRH rifle setup for practice and hunting?

ccoffey

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Jan 16, 2018
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I’m starting to put together a plan for what I want to change next year on my rifle setup. I feel like I’m in a pretty good spot where I can have some really nice gear, but I have to get there via selling and upgrading things. It’s starting to get to the point that I’m upgrading things every year that most hunters would be happy to have in the first place. But being a nut about gear and perfecting things has me constantly swapping things out.

Where I want to go next year is having 2 rifles. 1 balls to the wall 6.5 SAUM improved +p and one for practice that runs cheaper less hot factory ammo. Both in the same stock with very similar configurations.

Right now I run a 300 prc and the reason for going with the smaller cartridge is to be able to spot impacts more easily and get on back on target easier. My question is, am I over thinking the barrel life in the hotter ammo and should I keep the 300 prc and just add the 6.5 to the arsenal? Realistically I probably shoot 300-400 rounds before locking everything in for fall hunting in September/october. Another factor is that I don’t reload. So the 6.5 ammo will be super expensive to have made compared to the factory ammo if I want to hone my skills through out the spring and summer months.
 

dster3

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Have you thought about a custom action with a couple of prefit barrels and bolts? You can go all in for a stock, action, trigger, scope and rings, - spend the money on two different caliber barrels and a different bolt.

I'd think you could budget it accordingly and end up with better components. I personally swap between a 6.5 creedmoor and a PRC with my rifle.

One thought about barrel life because that's what stuck out to me - don't overthink it. If you're only shooting 3-400 rounds a year plus any during the season, even a shorter life barrel would last 3-4 maybe 5 years. Take a measurement of how it shoots when its new - I use the ballistic-X app to help with MOA measurements. If it degrades substantially and the round count is on that higher end, might be time to get a new barrel.

Personally, the 300 will do a lot of things a 6.5mm projectile won't. Its a long action versus a short action - i'd say having the 300

Just my two cents
 

hereinaz

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Swap barrels, one for practice a few months and the other a couple months before season.

If you go with a UM Tikka build for the 6.5 saum, you can buy a 6.5 creed Tikka and use the same stock and roll with it.

Unless there is something special about the 300 you have, just sell it.

If you are diving down the rabbit hole, you can also just buy kit to reload for the 6.5 saum.
 
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A 6.5 SAUM impr +P for a non-handloader seems like a terrible choice unless you've got money to burn.

Maybe I just suck but spotting shots with a standard 9-10# 6.5 SAUM with a micro bastard brake from field positions wasn't a walk in the park. No way I'd pay $5/ea for ammo and have the throat life degraded further by +P'ing such a cartridge.

I'd step away from the hype and get a factory avail cartridge you can shoot more.
 

hereinaz

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A 6.5 SAUM impr +P for a non-handloader seems like a terrible choice unless you've got money to burn.

Maybe I just suck but spotting shots with a standard 9-10# 6.5 SAUM with a micro bastard brake from field positions wasn't a walk in the park. No way I'd pay $5/ea for ammo and have the throat life degraded further by +P'ing such a cartridge.

I'd step away from the hype and get a factory avail cartridge you can shoot more.
I try not to tell a guy not to get what he wants, but this is true, so take it into account. Custom chambers don’t give that much more (if anything) over factory in 90% of my hunting situations.

Sometimes, I run the data on 6.5 prc and 6 creed and shoot on friends rifles and it makes me wonder why I reload for my custom. They are very close.
 

Bartb68

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Joined
Sep 27, 2019
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I bought my son a 243 tikka that I rebarreld to 6cm. Berger factory 109s shoot awesome and for the price its made me rethink reloading for it. We shoot the crap out of it and will rebarrel as needed. I just got a seekins 223wylde that shoots Berger 73gr great. Its been nice to just grab 5 boxes and go out and shoot and when Im done I have lapua brass to reload.
 
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Dec 30, 2014
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I bought my son a 243 tikka that I rebarreld to 6cm. Berger factory 109s shoot awesome and for the price its made me rethink reloading for it. We shoot the crap out of it and will rebarrel as needed. I just got a seekins 223wylde that shoots Berger 73gr great. Its been nice to just grab 5 boxes and go out and shoot and when Im done I have lapua brass to reload.

I got some berger 6 creed 95 CH ammo on sale that shoots good but it's harder to pay full price for it.

The sig match 107 SMK stuff has been on optics planet for a long time @ $1.36/ea. That stuff shoots pretty dang good so I bought a couple cases.
 

padenlac

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Mar 4, 2024
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I’m starting to put together a plan for what I want to change next year on my rifle setup. I feel like I’m in a pretty good spot where I can have some really nice gear, but I have to get there via selling and upgrading things. It’s starting to get to the point that I’m upgrading things every year that most hunters would be happy to have in the first place. But being a nut about gear and perfecting things has me constantly swapping things out.

Where I want to go next year is having 2 rifles. 1 balls to the wall 6.5 SAUM improved +p and one for practice that runs cheaper less hot factory ammo. Both in the same stock with very similar configurations.

Right now I run a 300 prc and the reason for going with the smaller cartridge is to be able to spot impacts more easily and get on back on target easier. My question is, am I over thinking the barrel life in the hotter ammo and should I keep the 300 prc and just add the 6.5 to the arsenal? Realistically I probably shoot 300-400 rounds before locking everything in for fall hunting in September/october. Another factor is that I don’t reload. So the 6.5 ammo will be super expensive to have made compared to the factory ammo if I want to hone my skills through out the spring and summer months.
I agree with the other responses as far as 6.5 SAUM being a bad choice if you are not reloading. The 6.5 PRC with a SAMMI chamber is a very capable cartridge on its own. I would consider having one rifle and two different loads. A lighter factory load with a 140 class bullet and hotter load shooting 150 class bullets for hunting.
As far as barrel life goes I would not use it as a justification to build two rifles. You wouldn't buy 2 cars because you were concerned about wearing out tires, there is no reason to build 2 rifles in order to save barrel. Just consider a barrel a consumable item and part of the cost of participation.
 

TaperPin

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Jul 12, 2023
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If you shoot the 300 well I’d keep that for everything and add a 243 trainer. Personally, I like the 243/6 creed as a trainer because it has a little kick just to remind your brain what recoil is, and it can be taken along and kept in the truck as a secondary rifle in case the main gun takes a hard fall.
 

Sadler

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How far are you wanting to shoot? Factory 108s out of my 16” 6 creed are going ~2700fps. Easy to see impacts, available/cheap ammo for practice, and at 6k feet it’ll stay above 1800 fps out past 700 yards. If that works for you it seems like the easy button for a trainer/hunter combo.
 
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ccoffey

ccoffey

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Swap barrels, one for practice a few months and the other a couple months before season.

If you go with a UM Tikka build for the 6.5 saum, you can buy a 6.5 creed Tikka and use the same stock and roll with it.

Unless there is something special about the 300 you have, just sell it.

If you are diving down the rabbit hole, you can also just buy kit to reload for the 6.5 saum.
That’s a solid option. My plan was to have one built through UM. I’m just not educated enough to know what’s possible with barrel swaps. Since I don’t reload, is it possible to have the hot rod 6.5 SAUM and have UM load the ammo I need for that and then swap out barrels and shoot the 6.5 creed pretty easily?
 

hereinaz

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That’s a solid option. My plan was to have one built through UM. I’m just not educated enough to know what’s possible with barrel swaps. Since I don’t reload, is it possible to have the hot rod 6.5 SAUM and have UM load the ammo I need for that and then swap out barrels and shoot the 6.5 creed pretty easily?
It’s a bolt and barrel swap. UM can set you up for ammo and all that.

To swap the barrel, you can get an action wrench and a barrel vice or have them mill wrench flats into the barrels.

Most shooters don’t end up using the barrel swap set ups, cause they just end up building a second rifle… But, those that do love it. They tend to be minimalists and organized.
 
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Listen to this podcast they are talking about hot rod cartridges and how expecting long life out off a hot rod is not really possible. If you are a right handed shooter build what ever custom rifle you want on a tikka and then go buy a tikka .223 and shoot all time with your .223 and have them set up similarly.
 
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ccoffey

ccoffey

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Location
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Listen to this podcast they are talking about hot rod cartridges and how expecting long life out off a hot rod is not really possible. If you are a right handed shooter build what ever custom rifle you want on a tikka and then go buy a tikka .223 and shoot all time with your .223 and have them set up similarly.

I caught that today. I’m probably not the guy that’s gonna burn barrels down like Avery said haha


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Pardon the ignorance. What does a +P designation do for a 6.5 SAUM improved, which is designed on a modern cartridge that has a 65,000 psi limit? What pressure does it run at, or is it part of the allure of the name of the cartridge?
 
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Pardon the ignorance. What does a +P designation do for a 6.5 SAUM improved, which is designed on a modern cartridge that has a 65,000 psi limit? What pressure does it run at, or is it part of the allure of the name of the cartridge?

It’s different than something like say “257 Robert’s +p” where the difference is just a higher saami pressure. In this case the “+p” is just a bore rider style throat that builds pressure slower so you can load with more powder and get more velocity.

Google defensive edge +p
 

Hoghead

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Jun 20, 2019
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I just got my rifle back. I sent it to west texas ordinance and had the switch lug installed. I have a 7 sherman max 280 AI and 22 creedmoor. Only been out one time so far but im happy with it. The Max is my hunting cartridge the 280 is my practice round i also shoot the creed for practice and squirrels. My thing is the 280 AI is close to the max and will help with wind calls. I do reload and have a bunch of 270 brass i can fireform. every time i shoot i use the same trigger scope and chassis. It takes me about 45 seconds to change the barrel and bolt. Right now I'm breaking in the barrels. I would shoot 3 rounds switch barrels shoot and rotate.
 
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It’s different than something like say “257 Robert’s +p” where the difference is just a higher saami pressure. In this case the “+p” is just a bore rider style throat that builds pressure slower so you can load with more powder and get more velocity.

Google defensive edge +p
Thank you for the explanation! Totally makes sense. Hammer bullets are built to be more bore riding and get more velocity under the same premise. Didn't think of the gun being chambered that way to give the bore riding effect. I'm very familiar with free bore, which accomplishes a similar thing. Is +P in this usage similar to that?
 
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