Best interior barn door kit?

[jjohnsonElknewbie]

Hey guys, looking for guidance on the best unfinished interior barn door kit including the installation hardware- 36w x 96h. Been looking at Wayfair, Menards, etc..., and they prices and reviews vary dramatically.

Thank you in advance!

 

[Ridge Runner]

I build my own using tongue and groove blued pine and just bought the hardware of Wayfair. Pretty easy project.

 

[jjohnsonElknewbie]

I build my own using tongue and groove blued pine and just bought the hardware of Wayfair. Pretty easy project. View attachment 624001

Looks nice, well done

 

[GSPHUNTER]

I made this from reclaimed barn wood. It took a little searching to find the right boards, I, or I should say the wife wanted. The place I got the wood from and a bucket of old square nails so I got a few hand fulls and used them as opposed to modern nails, they gave it a very rustic look. All the boards are ruff cut 1 by's.It weight close to 90 lbs.

 

[CoffeeGoat]

We used some cheap ones from Amazon and they were totally adequate and relatively nice.

What we didn't expect is if you have kids, they will swing them out from the wall, and if they push hard enough they will fall off the tracks. It makes a heck of a thump...

 

[DB29]

I used this brand off Amazon. The quality was good. I bought a 1x4 to run under the rail instead of using their drywall anchors and bought a different guide for the bottom of the door so it didn’t stick out like the one provided.

https://www.amazon.com/TOPHAND-Unfinished-Hardware-Surfaces-Assembly/dp/B0CJTF6J1T/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_maf_3?crid=3G2GJ436D8CAD&keywords=s%26z+barn+door+96in&qid=1699398415&sprefix=s%26z+barn+door+396in%2Caps%2C716&sr=8-1

 

[displacedtexan]

I've done dozens. They all suck.

I prefer the multiple piece tracks, so I can slope them downhill each way.

 

[TaperPin]

Like displacedtexan I’ve installed dozens and he’s right, they all suck.

Many of these kits look very similar, because they are in many cases the same hardware in one of six different boxes. It must be something of a de facto standard item in China so parts from different sources can be combined.

These are far from a perfect product, so it’s nice to order from a source that is easy to return to.

 

[TaperPin]

After you’ve done a few it’s obvious what dimensions are important and which aren’t - not all instructions are correct, so it’s nice to lay it all out and confirm the layout.

The wheels do roll fairly easily, so the track has to be level. The track has to screw into something and other than a header above the door, the studs won’t be in the right place. It’s very common to mount a board a full inch thick X whatever width works, then attach the track to that.

Most of these have no vertical adjustment, so it’s important to drill the holes as accurately as possible - to level the door holes on one roller have to be enlarged so that side of the door can slide down.

Old houses are notorious for uneven floors - check the floor before settling on a height off the floor.

Two different height doors are often used for the same opening. A normal height door will show a gap at the top, while a slightly taller door has a cleaner look as seen from the inside.

The main surprise for clients is how the door aligns with the opening and how the door pull on the jamb side is mounted. Handles on the jamb side are not a good idea since they shrink the opening and can be finger smashers. That will become obvious.

Some installations work best with a shortened track - you have to ensure the rollers, stops, and track supports play well together.

Thats what I normally tell young carpenters and send them on their way to install it.

 

[7mm-08]

Barn door of your choice, but the best hardware (design and materials) I have ever seen is from a company named Reclaimed Lumber Products of Caldwell, Idaho. Definitely not cheap, but we have had their hardware installed in our house for more than five years and it is as good as the day it was installed. Here's their web address:

Sliding Door Hardware

"Discover high-quality sliding door hardware at Reclaimed Lumber Products. Enhance your space with our durable and stylish solutions. Shop now!"

reclaimedlumberproducts.com

 

[GSPHUNTER]

Barn door of your choice, but the best hardware (design and materials) I have ever seen is from a company named Reclaimed Lumber Products of Caldwell, Idaho. Definitely not cheap, but we have had their hardware installed in our house for more than five years and it is as good as the day it was installed. Here's their web address:

Sliding Door Hardware

"Discover high-quality sliding door hardware at Reclaimed Lumber Products. Enhance your space with our durable and stylish solutions. Shop now!"

reclaimedlumberproducts.com

That is where I got my hardware. Great durable product. I did my project about ten years ago and everything is working like the day I hung it.

 

[jjohnsonElknewbie]

Any difference in quality between the “solid” wood doors vs. the panel wood doors? I noticed fewer pieces to assemble in the solid version with full length boards which sounds better.

My other thought was to just build a door using 1x6 nickel gap tongue in groove red cedar siding for the door. Since the height of the doorway is 88”, and width is 33”, I would get 6- 10 footers, cut them to length, and then dress it up around the top/bottom/sides with 1x6 red cedar boards.

Then mount a header board and grab a set of this hardware you guys recommend for hanging.

Thoughts?

 

[JFK]

Get one with a hidden guide at the bottom that screws to the floor. You run a kerf cut on the bottom of the door about 2 blade widths and never see the keeper but it keeps the door from moving outward.

 

[Team4LongGun]

Some killer advice here, I learned the hard way!

 

[Mojave]

You want that door to be as light as possible.

Also because if it has a lot of mass little kids will try to kill one another with it.

 

[7mm-08]

Get one with a hidden guide at the bottom that screws to the floor. You run a kerf cut on the bottom of the door about 2 blade widths and never see the keeper but it keeps the door from moving outward.

This is the exact setup we have on our door. This hardware is also available from Reclaimed Lumber Products at their website in my earlier post. Excellent way to stabilize the door.

 

[JFK]

Any difference in quality between the “solid” wood doors vs. the panel wood doors? I noticed fewer pieces to assemble in the solid version with full length boards which sounds better.

My other thought was to just build a door using 1x6 nickel gap tongue in groove red cedar siding for the door. Since the height of the doorway is 88”, and width is 33”, I would get 6- 10 footers, cut them to length, and then dress it up around the top/bottom/sides with 1x6 red cedar boards.

Then mount a header board and grab a set of this hardware you guys recommend for hanging.

Thoughts?

Absolutely build your own. Cheaper in many cases, probably better, and exactly what you want in terms of height and width. I built one in a couple hours.

 

[jjohnsonElknewbie]

Thank you for all the feedback and encouragement. I've decided to build the door and it should be fairly straightforward. Parts list below for 36" x 90" doorway, and please shoot holes in the plan if something is missing or doesn't make sense. I plan to purchase the lumber from Menards. For tools I have an older Craftsman compound miter saw, circular saw, hammer, driver, brad nailer, etc... I have access to a table saw from a buddy.

• 7- 1x6x10' tongue in groove boards for actual door
  • Actual board width is 5-3/8, so need 7 total to get the width
  • Cut height to 90"
  • If not too big a pain, rip the tongue off the last board with table saw for smooth outer edge
• 2- 1x6x4' boards for the top/bottom trim pieces
  • Cut to fit door width
  • Use table saw to cut the Kerf cut on bottom trim piece for floor guide
• 1- 1x6x10' board for diagonal trim for z-pattern
  • Figure out the angles and cut to fit

For fastening the trim, would a guy be safe using brads for a super clean finish, or would screws be better?

 

[GSPHUNTER]

Thank you for all the feedback and encouragement. I've decided to build the door and it should be fairly straightforward. Parts list below for 36" x 90" doorway, and please shoot holes in the plan if something is missing or doesn't make sense. I plan to purchase the lumber from Menards. For tools I have an older Craftsman compound miter saw, circular saw, hammer, driver, brad nailer, etc... I have access to a table saw from a buddy.

• 7- 1x6x10' tongue in groove boards for actual door
  • Actual board width is 5-3/8, so need 7 total to get the width
  • Cut height to 90"
  • If not too big a pain, rip the tongue off the last board with table saw for smooth outer edge
• 1- 1x6x4' tongue in groove board for bottom door trim
  • Rip the tongue off with table saw and use the groove for the bottom door guide
  • Cut to fit door width
• 1- 1x6x4' board for the top trim piece
  • Cut to fit door width
• 1- 1x6x10' board for diagonal trim for z-pattern
  • Figure out the angles and cut to fit

For fastening the trim, would a guy be safe using brads for a super clean finish, or would screws be better?

If it were me, I would use Philips counter sunk screws. Drilll hole for screw then counter sink to make sure screw head is flush with finished surface. When I do that I have two drills, one with drill bit, the other set up with counter sink bit. Depending on Finnish color of door you could use brass screws. Which I would use in any even. Like I mention, I used old square nails for the rustic effect. You didn't mention hanging hardware. As mention you can get quality hardware at Reclaimed Lumber Products. expensive but worth it. Ours was around $ 400 and that was around ten years ago. Menards likely has some options you can choose from. Be sure to post finished project.

 

[jjohnsonElknewbie]

If it were me, I would use Philips counter sunk screws. Drilll hole for screw then counter sink to make sure screw head is flush with finished surface. When I do that I have two drills, one with drill bit, the other set up with counter sink bit. Depending on Finnish color of door you could use brass screws. Which I would use in any even. Like I mention, I used old square nails for the rustic effect. You didn't mention hanging hardware. As mention you can get quality hardware at Reclaimed Lumber Products. expensive but worth it. Ours was around $ 400 and that was around ten years ago. Menards likely has some options you can choose from. Be sure to post finished project.

Thanks again, and although brads would be way easier, I agree screws are likely a better long term option. This is the second time this week somebody on here said something out loud I was already considering, but was being a dumba$$ about. This is an awesome place!