Best insert glue for removal

Joined
Feb 15, 2021
Messages
78
I’m going to be cutting my arrows down in stages to see what length tunes the best. What is a good insert glue to use for insert removal? Once I find a length I want I will jb weld it in for good. Thanks.
 

Bump79

WKR
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Oct 5, 2020
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I've had good luck with this glue so far.

 
Joined
Aug 23, 2014
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Location
oregon coast
I’ve had good luck with Kimsha and Bohning Cool Flex.
I have as well, but I have lost some inserts with cool flex. Kimsha has been great so far for me… hopefully it stays great, because I can’t permanently glue anything in with my current program.

The kimsha is fairly low temp and very sticky, so if it holds up long term, it seems to be the perfect hot melt. Easy to loosen up with hot water so you don’t have to torch your inserts which heats up the carbon more than i like
 
Joined
Aug 23, 2014
Messages
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Location
oregon coast
I’m going to be cutting my arrows down in stages to see what length tunes the best. What is a good insert glue to use for insert removal? Once I find a length I want I will jb weld it in for good. Thanks.
Are you shooting a recurve? Cutting arrows down in increments is pretty much unnecessary with a compound, make sure you aren’t close to a weak spine, cut as short as you’re comfortable with and then start tuning
 

Bump79

WKR
Joined
Oct 5, 2020
Messages
1,357
Are you shooting a recurve? Cutting arrows down in increments is pretty much unnecessary with a compound, make sure you aren’t close to a weak spine, cut as short as you’re comfortable with and then start tuning
I have as well, but I have lost some inserts with cool flex. Kimsha has been great so far for me… hopefully it stays great, because I can’t permanently glue anything in with my current program.

The kimsha is fairly low temp and very sticky, so if it holds up long term, it seems to be the perfect hot melt. Easy to loosen up with hot water so you don’t have to torch your inserts which heats up the carbon more than i like

I second both of these. I've lost multiple inserts (with broadheads at times) with cool melt. Realistically, using hot melt of any type just requires enough surface area of the insert. Losing stuff in expensive targets sucks.. done it too many times now.
 
OP
T
Joined
Feb 15, 2021
Messages
78
Are you shooting a recurve? Cutting arrows down in increments is pretty much unnecessary with a compound, make sure you aren’t close to a weak spine, cut as short as you’re comfortable with and then start tuning
It’s a compound. I’m good for the spine, just playing with length, weight of inserts, and foc, and overall weight.
 
Joined
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oregon coast
I second both of these. I've lost multiple inserts (with broadheads at times) with cool melt. Realistically, using hot melt of any type just requires enough surface area of the insert. Losing stuff in expensive targets sucks.. done it too many times now.
If you lose inserts in your target, it seems like future arrows are drawn to that exact spot too, and shooting that target gets more expensive all the time

I have one insert in my rhinoblock right now that I can’t find to cut out, and I don’t even want to shoot that target anymore

I decided to revisit 166’s and am shooting glue in mostly, but also a few deep 6 heads, and I’m hot melting the head into the insert and then gluing that whole piece in, so both ways create a large surface area for glue

If this experiment ends like last time I shot 166, I’m going to do the same program with 204’s, which will also lend a long gluing surface, and it’s quick and easy to build and change components on any arrow, don’t know why I haven’t been doing that the whole time

It’s not bad installing HITS, but it’s easier gluing everything together and then gluing that into the arrow
 
Joined
Jul 20, 2014
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Kirtland, NM
I use the low temp glue and have never lost an insert in a target. I did lose some back in the late 80’s when all hot melt was brittle. Most of the time I put bow string wax on the threads then screw them into my HIT insert. Then add glue to the insert and the ferrule of the fieldpoint or broadhead and slide it into the arrow. Works great and it’s easy to change out with hot water or a heat gun.
 
Joined
Dec 12, 2024
Messages
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The bohning cool flex works great. Installation is pretty simple with a mini torch and If you use a small pot and boil water to remove the components theres no worry about overheating the carbon!
 
Joined
Oct 28, 2021
Messages
875
I can tell you what NOT to use for removal.... 30-06 Insert Weld.

I screwed up the placement of a HIT in a new Easton 5.0 and tried the drill bit method to get it out? Would not budge! Even swelled the shaft where it was hitting but never moved a single bit. Ended up just ditching that arrow.

So once you are ready for permanent placement, this stuff is ridiculously solid.
 

5MilesBack

"DADDY"
Joined
Feb 27, 2012
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So once you are ready for permanent placement, this stuff is ridiculously solid.
I have always used my golf club 2-part epoxy. I figured if it can hold the club head on the shaft after 1000's of high speed impacts, it should be good for inserts and arrows. And it is.

On the converse, I have never found a hot melt, cool melt, or any other melt that has kept my inserts in long term. They normally come out the first time shot into foam, but some have lasted a little longer......but not much longer.
 

NMJM

FNG
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Aug 2, 2022
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Location
New Mexico
If your shooting a compound it is very unlikely you will see any benefit to having longer arrows. Just cut as short as is safe and shoot. If you really like playing with your set up go for it but there are many other places you can tinker and get better results.
 
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