Best insert glue for removal

[The big greasy]

I’m going to be cutting my arrows down in stages to see what length tunes the best. What is a good insert glue to use for insert removal? Once I find a length I want I will jb weld it in for good. Thanks.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

I’ve had good luck with Kimsha and Bohning Cool Flex.

 

[wapitibob]

I use Stanley super strength low temp hot melt.

 

[BKM]

The low temp hot glue sticks you can buy at any store work great, no need to use a “more permanent glue “

 

[Bump79]

I've had good luck with this glue so far.

Hot melt glue

Install points and inserts with a removable glue for the ability to customize your arrow build Low-temperature melting point hot melt Great for use with both aluminum and carbon arrows size 1.5"x1.5" looks white at first but melts off roughly 850-900grains

www.podiumarcher.com

 

[roosiebull]

I’ve had good luck with Kimsha and Bohning Cool Flex.

I have as well, but I have lost some inserts with cool flex. Kimsha has been great so far for me… hopefully it stays great, because I can’t permanently glue anything in with my current program.

The kimsha is fairly low temp and very sticky, so if it holds up long term, it seems to be the perfect hot melt. Easy to loosen up with hot water so you don’t have to torch your inserts which heats up the carbon more than i like

 

[roosiebull]

I’m going to be cutting my arrows down in stages to see what length tunes the best. What is a good insert glue to use for insert removal? Once I find a length I want I will jb weld it in for good. Thanks.

Are you shooting a recurve? Cutting arrows down in increments is pretty much unnecessary with a compound, make sure you aren’t close to a weak spine, cut as short as you’re comfortable with and then start tuning

 

[Bump79]

Are you shooting a recurve? Cutting arrows down in increments is pretty much unnecessary with a compound, make sure you aren’t close to a weak spine, cut as short as you’re comfortable with and then start tuning

I have as well, but I have lost some inserts with cool flex. Kimsha has been great so far for me… hopefully it stays great, because I can’t permanently glue anything in with my current program.

The kimsha is fairly low temp and very sticky, so if it holds up long term, it seems to be the perfect hot melt. Easy to loosen up with hot water so you don’t have to torch your inserts which heats up the carbon more than i like

I second both of these. I've lost multiple inserts (with broadheads at times) with cool melt. Realistically, using hot melt of any type just requires enough surface area of the insert. Losing stuff in expensive targets sucks.. done it too many times now.

 

[The big greasy]

Are you shooting a recurve? Cutting arrows down in increments is pretty much unnecessary with a compound, make sure you aren’t close to a weak spine, cut as short as you’re comfortable with and then start tuning

It’s a compound. I’m good for the spine, just playing with length, weight of inserts, and foc, and overall weight.

 

[roosiebull]

I second both of these. I've lost multiple inserts (with broadheads at times) with cool melt. Realistically, using hot melt of any type just requires enough surface area of the insert. Losing stuff in expensive targets sucks.. done it too many times now.

If you lose inserts in your target, it seems like future arrows are drawn to that exact spot too, and shooting that target gets more expensive all the time

I have one insert in my rhinoblock right now that I can’t find to cut out, and I don’t even want to shoot that target anymore

I decided to revisit 166’s and am shooting glue in mostly, but also a few deep 6 heads, and I’m hot melting the head into the insert and then gluing that whole piece in, so both ways create a large surface area for glue

If this experiment ends like last time I shot 166, I’m going to do the same program with 204’s, which will also lend a long gluing surface, and it’s quick and easy to build and change components on any arrow, don’t know why I haven’t been doing that the whole time

It’s not bad installing HITS, but it’s easier gluing everything together and then gluing that into the arrow

 

[The big greasy]

So if one is going to remove an insert, just boil some water and let it sit in there for a little then pull insert out?

 

[Bump79]

So if one is going to remove an insert, just boil some water and let it sit in there for a little then pull insert out?

You shouldn't even need boiling water - say 140 degrees and you can work it out. I use a cheap heat gun from amazon and keep it on low

 

[The big greasy]

You shouldn't even need boiling water - say 140 degrees and you can work it out. I use a cheap heat gun from amazon and keep it on low

Then just clean the inside of the shaft with acetone to get rid of any remaining glue left in there?

 

[Bump79]

Then just clean the inside of the shaft with acetone to get rid of any remaining glue left in there?

Yeah, maybe a bore brush to loosen anything up then a q tip or similar. Alcohol is fine too, you're mainly getting rid of the carbon/debris.

 

[butcherboy]

I use the low temp glue and have never lost an insert in a target. I did lose some back in the late 80’s when all hot melt was brittle. Most of the time I put bow string wax on the threads then screw them into my HIT insert. Then add glue to the insert and the ferrule of the fieldpoint or broadhead and slide it into the arrow. Works great and it’s easy to change out with hot water or a heat gun.

 

[BrushmtnRed]

The bohning cool flex works great. Installation is pretty simple with a mini torch and If you use a small pot and boil water to remove the components theres no worry about overheating the carbon!

 

[Eastonsgrandpa]

I can tell you what NOT to use for removal.... 30-06 Insert Weld.

I screwed up the placement of a HIT in a new Easton 5.0 and tried the drill bit method to get it out? Would not budge! Even swelled the shaft where it was hitting but never moved a single bit. Ended up just ditching that arrow.

So once you are ready for permanent placement, this stuff is ridiculously solid.

 

[5MilesBack]

So once you are ready for permanent placement, this stuff is ridiculously solid.

I have always used my golf club 2-part epoxy. I figured if it can hold the club head on the shaft after 1000's of high speed impacts, it should be good for inserts and arrows. And it is.

On the converse, I have never found a hot melt, cool melt, or any other melt that has kept my inserts in long term. They normally come out the first time shot into foam, but some have lasted a little longer......but not much longer.

 

[Dennis]

With bare shaft testing I leave insert glued in and cut nock end for test then fletch. I know it's backwards.