Ethics Archery hit insert tool

[Bmoore]

Anyone have experience with the ethics hit insert tool? Seems to make sense, it screws into the insert and then you install it in the arrow and leave until the glue sets. Would stop you from pushing the insert in too far or having it slide back out. Seems like a good solution. Anyone use it? Does it work? Drawbacks? Seems like they sell 3 or 12 at a time. So even with 24 hour epoxy you could do 12 at a time with 12 tools. Or else use a faster setting glue and let them sit 5 minutes before removing the tool to reuse. Something like the victory black fusion as recommended by IW in victory shafts.

Looked around and don’t see any talk about this tool. Would it solve the problem of having hit inserts dry in the wrong location in the shaft? Would you still use 24 hour epoxy? Or would the black fusion be a better glue type? Any experiences to share?

 

[sndmn11]

I've used it a bunch in the past, but not like you described. I only used the threaded part for cutting inserts and helping to hold the insert for gluing and putting into the a little. Then I'd pinch the shaft and unscrew the tool, turn it over and use the plunger to get the distance.

 

[Bmoore]

I've used it a bunch in the past, but not like you described. I only used the threaded part for cutting inserts and helping to hold the insert for gluing and putting into the a little. Then I'd pinch the shaft and unscrew the tool, turn it over and use the plunger to get the distance.

That’s interesting, from the video I saw from ethics it seemed he just left it screwed in until the glue dried.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

I made my own HIT install tool with an 8-32 machine screw a couple inches long and two nuts. Move the nuts along the screw to achieve the appropriate setting depth then jam them against each other to keep them in place. Then thread the HIT onto the screw and glue it in the arrow. You could get enough screws and nuts to make a dozen tools for $5 and a trip to the hardware store.

 

[Bmoore]

I made my own HIT install tool with an 8-32 machine screw a couple inches long and two nuts. Move the nuts along the screw to achieve the appropriate setting depth then jam them against each other to keep them in place. Then thread the HIT onto the screw and glue it in the arrow. You could get enough screws and nuts to make a dozen tools for $5 and a trip to the hardware store.

That’s really interesting and quite genius. Have you had any issues with excess glue on the inside of the shaft? I am assuming the little protrusions on the Easton tool are to scrape excess out when you pull it so no build up stops a point from getting to the insert. But is that a real issue? Or have you found that there isn’t a build up issue when using your homemade screw tool?

 

[Mighty Mouse]

That’s really interesting and quite genius. Have you had any issues with excess glue on the inside of the shaft? I am assuming the little protrusions on the Easton tool are to scrape excess out when you pull it so no build up stops a point from getting to the insert. But is that a real issue? Or have you found that there isn’t a build up issue when using your homemade screw tool?

I haven’t had any issues with interference from excess adhesive. FWIW I typically use hot melt instead of permanent adhesive.

 

[5MilesBack]

Would it solve the problem of having hit inserts dry in the wrong location in the shaft?

I've been using the little plastic green one from Easton for 20 years, and have never had a HIT dry in the wrong location.

 

[Bump79]

I've been using the little plastic green one from Easton for 20 years, and have never had a HIT dry in the wrong location.

Same here. Been using HIT's for only 11 years but never had an issue. If using epoxy just let it dry flat.

This year I started using the Ethics 50 grain aluminum HIT insert with hot melt the Easton tool to install. Since they are so much longer than a 50 grain brass so there is significantly more glue surface area for hot melt to adhere to the carbon. They don't go anywhere and foot into the shaft further for more durability IMHO. Best part is I can install AND if needed remove them way faster - for install I hot melt then drop then in ice water for an instant set. Which is critical for me as it lets me cut/square/glue/fletch all concurrently with no break for set time. For removal I use hot water and pull them right out. Which is helpful because I rarely ruin a shaft from the HIT side as it's usually ruined from another arrow hitting it.

 

[sndmn11]

That’s interesting, from the video I saw from ethics it seemed he just left it screwed in until the glue dried.

I just lay them flat and have used JB weld with HIT inserts. I'd get pretty surly having to mix up a new batch every day, leaving the tool in there until cured.

 

[3forks]

I see you guys are saying you’re using hot melt, but to clarify - it’s actually hot melt and not cool melt correct?

 

[Bump79]

I see you guys are saying you’re using hot melt, but to clarify - it’s actually hot melt and not cool melt correct?

These are what I've used.

Hot melt glue

Install points and inserts with a removable glue for the ability to customize your arrow build Low-temperature melting point hot melt Great for use with both aluminum and carbon arrows size 1.5"x1.5" looks white at first but melts off roughly 850-900grains

www.podiumarcher.com

Kimsha Quick-Stick Point Glue

Check out the deal on Kimsha Quick-Stick Point Glue at 3Rivers Archery Supply

www.3riversarchery.com

 

[Mighty Mouse]

I see you guys are saying you’re using hot melt, but to clarify - it’s actually hot melt and not cool melt correct?

I’ve used Kimsha and Bohning Cool Flex. I don’t know their exact melting points, but I think they’re on the lower end of the temperature spectrum for heat reversible glues.

 

[3forks]

Thanks.

I’ve been using epoxy for HITs, and I use Bohning Cool Melt for glue in points on my target arrows.

 

[Bmoore]

I've been using the little plastic green one from Easton for 20 years, and have never had a HIT dry in the wrong location.

Haha. You’re a better man than me. I’ve had them settle too deep and too shallow. I’ve ruined just about as many arrows as I’ve successfully built.

 

[Bmoore]

For the hot melt/ cool melt crowd. Do you guys shoot broadheads into targets? And if so do the insert pull with the hot melt? I’ve always been afraid that when pulling a broadhead out of foam( which takes a bit of force most times) that the insert and broadhead will just pop out of the arrow.

 

[Bump79]

For the hot melt/ cool melt crowd. Do you guys shoot broadheads into targets? And if so do the insert pull with the hot melt? I’ve always been afraid that when pulling a broadhead out of foam( which takes a bit of force most times) that the insert and broadhead will just pop out of the arrow.

I do all the time. It depends on the component really and how much glue surface it has. With just a 16 grain stock HIT I'd be a little hesitant. But if you glue the head and insert together it'd be perfectly fine.

Some heads are hell on targets though and tough to remove. I generally buy heads that are easy on my targets as well. Single bevels are generally beveled the wrong way on the back and tear the heck out of a target. But a head angled on the back or sharpened on the back is a breeze and makes your target last longer. Just make sure your not pulling it in a way that could cut yourself.

Think Iron Will, Day Six, Magnus, OzCut, Terra Firma & Cutthroat 3b.

 

[5MilesBack]

Haha. You’re a better man than me. I’ve had them settle too deep and too shallow. I’ve ruined just about as many arrows as I’ve successfully built.

Two things......one, pull the nocks before installing so there's no back pressure inside the shaft; and two, make sure you lay the shafts flat for 24 hours for the epoxy to cure.

Also, every "melt" type of glue I've ever tried has left FP's or BH's in targets. So for me, I use good epoxy because I want my inserts to NEVER move once installed.

 

[Bmoore]

Two things......one, pull the nocks before installing so there's no back pressure inside the shaft; and two, make sure you lay the shafts flat for 24 hours for the epoxy to cure.

Also, every "melt" type of glue I've ever tried has left FP's or BH's in targets. So for me, I use good epoxy because I want my inserts to NEVER move once installed.

I learned the jock thing the hard way. Unfortunaly I then learned that if you stick the tool back in and put a few times ( which I was doing to make sure they weren’t sliding back out) you will push them in too far.

As I said, I’ve ruined them in more way than one. I also tried using super glue to reinstall a few that pulled out. That set too fast so I couldn’t get them deep enough.

Anyone try the black fusion glue? Does it set too fast to get them seated properly?

 

[butcherboy]

I use the Iron Will hit tool. Sets the depth perfect every time and I never use epoxy or superglue. Always low temp hot melt glue. Never had one pull out in a target.

 

[sndmn11]

Also, every "melt" type of glue I've ever tried has left FP's or BH's in targets. So for me, I use good epoxy because I want my inserts to NEVER move once installed.

I've had the same experience with hot melt to include the glue in target point flying out the back of the block target and sending the garage door.