Best 6.5prc brass to reduce clickers

SDHNTR

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ADG or Lapua or Peterson?

Used ADG (on old lot from 3 ish years ago, maybe it’s gotten better?) and get clickers in the third firing. Is Lapua or Petersen any better?

FWIW, I tried a Cortina mandrel die without any success. It doesn’t size the base down any more than my Redding Type S. and I’m not getting this chamber reamed out. I have no good gunsmiths near me and the gun is super accurate. I don’t want to mess with it and will just buy new brass.
 

huntnful

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Lapua is the toughest of the bunch. That’ll be your best bet. But it isn’t a brass issue as much as a chamber issue. If you’re not planning to open the chamber don’t expect any different results from the Lapua brass.
 

khuber84

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Lapua is not the toughest of the bunch, ADG is. Adg needs room in the chamber to expand and be sized tho, lapua needs this too. I have a suspicion that Peterson makes Lapuas prc cases, as they have performed the same. Which is not the same in br, creed, or x47 cases, usually lapua smoke Peterson, just like it does in the 300/338 Norma line.

You need to open the chamber up with aw2 reamer. Brass choice isn't really gonna matter. Tightest sizing dies will help, so will backing off the pressure of your reloads.
 
OP
S

SDHNTR

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Yeah, I know opening the back of the chamber is the solution, but for now, I’m just gonna buy new brass.
 

khuber84

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Yeah, I know opening the back of the chamber is the solution, but for now, I’m just gonna buy new brass.
The tightest dies I have found for the 65prc is the Bullet Central Micron, just behind that is the RCBS matchmaster. RCBS is much more affordable, and does just as good a job. I battled this same issue prior to getting my chambers reamed out. 2950 with H1000/140s from 24" barrels was where I landed. Had I not hot rodded the piss out of the brass with RL26 over 3100fps in the beginning, I probably could have run it a bit higher.
 
OP
S

SDHNTR

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I’m running 3060-3100ish with a 127 LRX. Warm, but not super hot.
 

Maidenfan539

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Rent the reamer and spend the hour to fix it right and be done with it
I have Lapua brass and after 3 firings the clickers arrived. Moderate load at about 2850 w/156 eol.

Gunsmith had reamer and took care of it for $75. Well worth the time to get that chamber right.
 
OP
S

SDHNTR

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Believe me, if I had even an only half drunk and half competent gunsmith near me I would. And shipping has just become too much of a headache.
 

Maidenfan539

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Believe me, if I had even an only half drunk and half competent gunsmith near me I would. And shipping has just become too much of a headache.
I also have a 7SAUM and the clickers arrived after 3 firing with ADG brass. Slightly annoying, but I can live with them. From what I've read, they are not going to hurt anything drastically.
 

wapitibob

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Do it yourself. The reamer will dust off the rear of the chamber before the flutes have a chance to cut any other part of it.
 
OP
S

SDHNTR

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Do it yourself. The reamer will dust off the rear of the chamber before the flutes have a chance to cut any other part of it.
I’m fairly confident with most basic gunsmith tasks. Done several bedding and trigger jobs and a few prefit builds, but messing with the chamber machining is uncharted territory. That said, it doesn’t scare me. Is there a good you tube vid showing the process? I understand what needs to be done but visuals always help.
 

bmart2622

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Believe me, if I had even an only half drunk and half competent gunsmith near me I would. And shipping has just become too much of a headache.
Do it yourself, $80 for the reamer shipped to you and an hour of your time then you can move on to something else to complain about
 

wapitibob

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A video from Broz is mentioned but I didn’t see a link. Reaming is discussed here…

 
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OP
S

SDHNTR

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A video from Broz is mentioned but I didn’t see a link. Reaming is discussed here…

Good pics. I’d really prefer not to have to remove the barrel and just clamp in a soft jaw vice. How hard is this to do with action in place? Assume I’d need an extension of some sort. Or handle? Is there any concern for reaming concentricity out of whack when doing this by hand?
 
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A long 3/8 socket extension extension and a cordless drill run slow and you can do it without pulling the barrel
 
OP
S

SDHNTR

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A long 3/8 socket extension extension and a cordless drill run slow and you can do it without pulling the barrel
How do you keep the reamer perfectly true/concentric to Center of bore? Seems if turning by hand it would be really easy to put too much pressure on one side and cut it out of round. How do you prevent that?

Still wish I could find a video.
 
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